Ingredients questions

[nanzclaire]

Hey guys, how are you all?

I am encountering some questions along making skincare and cosmetics products and I don't get to find a proper complete answer yet by googling it.


1, the safety usage in plant powder, plant extract in formula

2, adding ingredient at heat stage as they need to dissolve into oil/ water before mixing, will the heat affect the result ? Or when shall you add it into formula?
Eg: Zinc oxide / titanium dioxide

3, for holding, do you need to mix constantly , or just mix once in awhile ? My cream occurs kind of "sweat"... I assume I didn't hold the cream properly?

4, when using emulsifier for Essential oils before adding to water phase, does it mean the total amount of EO will increase due to diluting at ratio 3 parts emulsifier to 1 part EO? Because I am so confused about the amount for ingredients. I wanted to add 1% rate of Eo( 2g) it has became 8g after diluted with emulsifier overnight ....


5, for plant liquid extract , when will you add to the cream? Again, if added the extract as base water phase and heat and hold ? Or add it after holding ? Which way will I get the best qualities out of the cream? I am afraid after hearing up to 70degrees that will destruct the benefits of the extract!

6, what is the difference in Xanthan gum and HEC? I know and I have been using HEC for thickening agent and making my serum from it. Since you need to dissolve it in the hot water first to set, I found its quite a lot of water in the serum, I want it to be more luxury! Can I replace water to hydrosols ? Can I heat the hydrosols and maintain its properties? Because otherwise it's no point in using these ingredients if can't keep its goodness!

7, Which one of above in (6.) that can use to create foam cleanser in opaque colour , as firm as it get squeeze out from Tube? (I only manage to make it in clear and medium liquid at the moment !)

8, which surfactants can I use to create cleanser lotion? I made a cleanser same as making a lotion , I loved it (dry skin I have)! But I would like to add some bubbles . I have cocmide betaine, gck-12 , are they only water soluble? Or can I mix it into the light emulsion for this purpose?

9, as we know Iron oxides are hugely in use in paint / industrial uses etc. when making cosmetics out of Iron oxide, are all iron oxide the same? Or they have types that only safe in cosmetics? I found various pricing and I am confused

10. How can one calculate the SPF value in home made cream( sunscreen/ Bb cream) ? I got zinc oxide and titanium dioxide

Thanks thanks thanks thanks millions!!!!

 

[shunt2011]

I can't help you with most of your questions as I've only been playing with making lotions. However, you cannot claim any SPF. Doesn't matter what you put into it.

 

[Paintguru]

Have you been here? http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/

If not, start your search there.

 

[lenarenee]

10. How can one calculate the SPF value in home made cream( sunscreen/ Bb cream) ? I got zinc oxide and titanium dioxide



Assuming you're making a sunscreen that will be used on another human being - you don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't.

If you want to make a sunscreen for yourself and are willing to take the risk...go ahead, but don't inflict a homemade sunscreen on another person.

I don't know or care how the FDA classifies a sunscreen, but sunscreen is something that protects your health, and the consequences of a pseudo "expert" making it are just too high.

There is so much knowledge and lab testing that goes into making an effective sunscreen for anyone to learn from the internet - it needs professional training and testing.

Some oils actually increase the affect of the sun's radiation!!

Making a homemade sunscreen is simply foolish and massively irresponsible unless it is lab tested and approved. (no idea how to do that)

( My 6 year old and his friend both suffered sunburns from someone's homemade sunscreen - a woman with a Ph.D in science who insisted she had the science knowledge! She wanted to save money. She also ignored me when she took our kids to the pool and didn't use the sunscreen I supplied. My ds was sick for 2 days with that sunburn, after only 40 minutes outside.)

 

[Rowan]

Makingskincare.com is another good resource when making skincare products. It's run by a cosmetic chemist. They will be doing online courses soon. Scroll to the bottom of the page and you will find a list of topics which should answer a lot of your questions. There's also a good forum you can join with more information.

Just a quick note - She only recommends a maximum of 0.1% of additives like plant powder due to preservation issues.

 

[cmzaha]

10. How can one calculate the SPF value in home made cream( sunscreen/ Bb cream) ? I got zinc oxide and titanium dioxide



Assuming you're making a sunscreen that will be used on another human being - you don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't.

If you want to make a sunscreen for yourself and are willing to take the risk...go ahead, but don't inflict a homemade sunscreen on another person.

I don't know or care how the FDA classifies a sunscreen, but sunscreen is something that protects your health, and the consequences of a pseudo "expert" making it are just too high.

There is so much knowledge and lab testing that goes into making an effective sunscreen for anyone to learn from the internet - it needs professional training and testing.

Some oils actually increase the affect of the sun's radiation!!

Making a homemade sunscreen is simply foolish and massively irresponsible unless it is lab tested and approved. (no idea how to do that)

( My 6 year old and his friend both suffered sunburns from someone's homemade sunscreen - a woman with a Ph.D in science who insisted she had the science knowledge! She wanted to save money. She also ignored me when she took our kids to the pool and didn't use the sunscreen I supplied. My ds was sick for 2 days with that sunburn, after only 40 minutes outside.)

Thankyou for writing this so I did not have to. I have customers come to my booth asking for all natural sunscreen. I simply tell them to purchase a proven high quality sunscreen and never use handmade sunscreen. Some things are just better done in a lab

 

[Dahila]

With all due respect, you need to start from the beginning, lotion is water and oil, botanical s go into cool phase. I also think you need to really study Swiftmonkey blog, all the questions you have will be answered. Makingskincare is not my favorite either, however they do recommend a good practice too ............
Even answer your questions would take a veeeeeery long post, and you would not believe it anyway )

 

[lenarenee]

I just got back from the biology class I'm taking. A young woman did a presentation on melanoma - because she has it. Her first words of the presentation were "Use sunscreen".

i like to also add (sorry I don't remember or have the source) but I did some research into making sunscreen after the sunburn event because there are so many "mommy" bloggers passing around the same stupid recipe and talking about how much money they're saving.

An article interviewing a compounding pharmacist explained why homemade sunscreen shouldn't be trusted and the one point that really stuck into my head was that you'll never be sure that your zinc or titanium powder is uniformly mixed into your base. In a factory the base itself has to meet a certain criteria for chemical components, viscosity...and many other things I don't remember.

There there's the whole spreadability factor...how uniformly does it cover the skin? What about the particle size of the titanium or zinc oxide? Do the particles clump together, or are they loose enough to mix into the base so that the same teaspoon measure of ointment contains the identical spf of a teaspoon measure taken from the middle and end of the batch.

And there's more important manufacturing factors, I just don't remember them enough to explain.

Good and effective sunscreen comes from years of research and experimentation, and it should be left to the experts. I cringe a little less when I see the price on a bottle.

I hope I'm flogging a dead horse here. This subject upsets me I'm sure there are so many people making homemade sunscreen and really have no idea if its effective or not, and people are getting hurt.

 

[Seawolfe]

There was a recent wave of people reporting horrible burns on their children from an "all natural" commercially marketed sunscreen, but my google-fu isnt working well to find them, or the fact that Im in Berlin right now is routing me wrong...

But this article is a good one about the problems with home made sunscreens: http://www.allure.com/beauty-trends...er/2013/04/homemade-sunscreens-dont-work.html

 

[Arimara]

10. How can one calculate the SPF value in home made cream( sunscreen/ Bb cream) ? I got zinc oxide and titanium dioxide



Assuming you're making a sunscreen that will be used on another human being - you don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't.

If you want to make a sunscreen for yourself and are willing to take the risk...go ahead, but don't inflict a homemade sunscreen on another person.

I don't know or care how the FDA classifies a sunscreen, but sunscreen is something that protects your health, and the consequences of a pseudo "expert" making it are just too high.

There is so much knowledge and lab testing that goes into making an effective sunscreen for anyone to learn from the internet - it needs professional training and testing.

Some oils actually increase the affect of the sun's radiation!!

Making a homemade sunscreen is simply foolish and massively irresponsible unless it is lab tested and approved. (no idea how to do that)

( My 6 year old and his friend both suffered sunburns from someone's homemade sunscreen - a woman with a Ph.D in science who insisted she had the science knowledge! She wanted to save money. She also ignored me when she took our kids to the pool and didn't use the sunscreen I supplied. My ds was sick for 2 days with that sunburn, after only 40 minutes outside.)

I'm sorry your child and his friend had to suffer that. I agree with you even though I have to be a little more selective for my child. She has some sensitive skin issues and her father's inability to take summer sun for more than 15 minutes. I consider myself to be one matter as I can handle the summer sun (even better when I do remember to put sunscreen on myself) but I always try to keep sunscreen on hand for my little nut and a half.

 

[lenarenee]

I'm sorry your child and his friend had to suffer that. I agree with you even though I have to be a little more selective for my child. She has some sensitive skin issues and her father's inability to take summer sun for more than 15 minutes. I consider myself to be one matter as I can handle the summer sun (even better when I do remember to put sunscreen on myself) but I always try to keep sunscreen on hand for my little nut and a half.

Thank you, you're sweet.

 

[TBandCW]

When I'm at outdoor shows and Farmers Markets, I always have someone asking me for sunscreen. I hand them my can of Neutrogena sunblock spray! I've had numerous requests for handmade sunscreen lotion, not going down that road!