I forgot to superfat
- Thread starter smeetree
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TVivian
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Yay! I had a feeling this one was going to turn out fine 
congrats on your soap!
congrats on your soap!So this is my 6th batch of soap. I do see some problems still.
1. Air bubbles. Is this because my trace is too thick? I do tap it on the counter.
2. Veins. Is this due to temperature I mix at (usually 120 degrees)? I use all natural colors so it's not the oxides.
3. My swirls are a bit lame, and I think that is once again due to thick trace; I was unable to pull enough up from the bottom.
This recipe is sandalwood and walnut powder for colorants, and cedarwood EO for scent. Eucalyptus leave on top for garnish. If anyone could give me some tips on how to avoid the problems I encountered I'd appreciate it. Thanks.
1. Air bubbles. Is this because my trace is too thick? I do tap it on the counter.
2. Veins. Is this due to temperature I mix at (usually 120 degrees)? I use all natural colors so it's not the oxides.
3. My swirls are a bit lame, and I think that is once again due to thick trace; I was unable to pull enough up from the bottom.
This recipe is sandalwood and walnut powder for colorants, and cedarwood EO for scent. Eucalyptus leave on top for garnish. If anyone could give me some tips on how to avoid the problems I encountered I'd appreciate it. Thanks.
You soap looks very nice, which my soaps had looked that good in the beginning soapmaking days. Try splitting off your batter at the point it emulisifes or very light trace. Pour when still thin so you can move the soap easier. I find a nice plastic chop stick great for swirling. Once you see the batter change color and no oil floating it is usually ready to color and you can pour at that point. Poured thinner will also avoid the air pockets or voids
Thanks, cmzaha. Does the temperature I mix oil and lye have negative effects? I mix at 120. I think next time I will try 90 or 100 degree to see if it helps with the veins. Maybe mixing at a lower temp results in a lower temp gel phase?
"...Air bubbles. Is this because my trace is too thick? I do tap it on the counter...."
I'd say you are pouring your soap a bit too thick, if you're getting large-ish air bubbles in your soap. If the soap is too thick, no amount of pounding will get rid of air bubbles, especially ones near the bottom of the soap. The soap has to be thin and liquid enough so the air bubbles can rise through the batter.
It also looks as if your swirling tool might have dragged some air down into the soap -- see how the bubbles are following the swirl lines? Not sure about that, but it seems possible.
"...I think next time I will try 90 or 100 degree to see if it helps with the veins...."
You can try soaping a little cooler if you want your soap to trace slower. That may give you more time to do your pouring and swirling.
The veins/streaks/mottles are created when soap cools very slowly. "Soap" as we talk about it is not just one thing -- it is a mixture of many different types of soap molecules. If you cool the soap slowly enough, the different types of soap molecules will solidify at different temperatures. The soap that solidifies first is more clear and the soaps that solidify last contain the colorants.
Any soap can show mottles and streaks, but this is more likely when you ... use colorants especially titanium dioxide, gel your soap, or use palm kernel oil in the recipe. I also wonder if mottling and streaking might be more common in soaps that have been swirled in the mold compared with soaps that are just poured into the mold and left alone, but that's just a guess on my part.
"...Maybe mixing at a lower temp results in a lower temp gel phase? ..."
Gel temperature will be what it will be, regardless of how warm or cool your ingredients are when you start. Gel is a phase change in the soap that occurs when the soap reaches a high enough temperature. The concept is exactly the same as with boiling water ... you can start with ice or you can start with water out of the tap, but in either case, the water will boil only when it reaches 212 deg F.
I'd say you are pouring your soap a bit too thick, if you're getting large-ish air bubbles in your soap. If the soap is too thick, no amount of pounding will get rid of air bubbles, especially ones near the bottom of the soap. The soap has to be thin and liquid enough so the air bubbles can rise through the batter.
It also looks as if your swirling tool might have dragged some air down into the soap -- see how the bubbles are following the swirl lines? Not sure about that, but it seems possible.
"...I think next time I will try 90 or 100 degree to see if it helps with the veins...."
You can try soaping a little cooler if you want your soap to trace slower. That may give you more time to do your pouring and swirling.
The veins/streaks/mottles are created when soap cools very slowly. "Soap" as we talk about it is not just one thing -- it is a mixture of many different types of soap molecules. If you cool the soap slowly enough, the different types of soap molecules will solidify at different temperatures. The soap that solidifies first is more clear and the soaps that solidify last contain the colorants.
Any soap can show mottles and streaks, but this is more likely when you ... use colorants especially titanium dioxide, gel your soap, or use palm kernel oil in the recipe. I also wonder if mottling and streaking might be more common in soaps that have been swirled in the mold compared with soaps that are just poured into the mold and left alone, but that's just a guess on my part.
"...Maybe mixing at a lower temp results in a lower temp gel phase? ..."
Gel temperature will be what it will be, regardless of how warm or cool your ingredients are when you start. Gel is a phase change in the soap that occurs when the soap reaches a high enough temperature. The concept is exactly the same as with boiling water ... you can start with ice or you can start with water out of the tap, but in either case, the water will boil only when it reaches 212 deg F.
