HP Goatsmilk Soap

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Does anybody make the HP Goats milk soap? How do you make it stay a creamy color? I prepare my oils, let them melt in the crockpot and cover it, but turn it off. When the lye is cool, I add the lye/ water solution in and stick blend till light trace, I then add my recently defrosted goats milk, but still slushy. I still have the crockpot off, just using the heat from it being on earlier. I alternate turning the crockpot off and on to keep a steady heat going. I stir like crazy to keep it from scorching, stick blen when it starts to separate. Let cook till trans, gone through gel and stir like crazy. I get a light beige color. Can it even get a creamy color?

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I use goatmilk powder at the end of the cook with the oil I am going to Super fat. I have dairy goats & would love to use their fresh milk, however powder is easier! ImageUploadedBySoap Making1386866096.896812.jpg
 
Oooh

That's beautiful! So, you mix the powdered goats milk with the oils ( superfatting) and add at trace or after the gelling?
 
After everything is finished cooking I mix together my super fat oil with powder goat milk & also add what ever FO or EO I am using. Then stir my oil milk mixture into the finished soap & spoon into my mold. Not going to say I pour into my mold, since I am not lifting up my crockpot!
My FO usually discolor the final product, I am always excited to find a scent I like that doesn't change my soap.
I hope you can find a way to use whole goat milk, once my girls are in milk again I plan on playing with mixing yogurt into my super fat.
 
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That's beautiful! So, you mix the powdered goats milk with the oils ( superfatting) and add at trace or after the gelling?

Superfatting in general means using more oil than required, regardless of which stage. It just means that a % of the oil will be left over once all the lye has reacted with oil.

If you are adding oils before saponification, it will still saponify - then your superfat will be a mix of all the oils in the mix.

To selectively superfat, you have to add the oil in AFTER the gel phase, only possible in hot process.

As JC said, it's 'after the cook' - which means after the gel phase in hot process, when all the lye has reacted. Any oil added at this point will be superfat.
 
No probs with coconut milk just the GM doesn't seem to like me lol. I did one GM HP, that one scorched looked like molasses. Second, I figured I make the CP and prevent gel in freezer and later fridge. Took it out couple days and let it rest out on the counter. Cut- partial gel! *slaps forehead!*.
 
Just attempted a batch of HP goat milk soap last night. I was hoping it might be firm enough to unmold today but right now that doesn't seem likely. The top 'crust' is firm but I can tell what's underneath is still vaseline consistency.

How long did it take yours to firm up? This was my first HP batch so have no way of knowing if this is normal or not.
 
I use goatmilk powder at the end of the cook with the oil I am going to Super fat. I have dairy goats & would love to use their fresh milk, however powder is easier! View attachment 4899

How much powdered goat milk PPO did you use? This is what I hoped mine would look like but it's caramel colored even cooking on the lowest crockpot setting.
 
If you use GM as your lye water and then do HP, your soap will be a caramel colour. Full stop. No way around that method.

To keep the creamy white colour your best bet is to do CP and cure for 4-6 weeks.

GM powder is the only method I have not tried.

CPOP is tricky. The soap has a tendency to overheat and separate. At best you will end up with a light caramel coloured soap.

You could try HP with 1/2 water and add 1/2 GM after the cook. I read about this somewhere but for me this didn't work out so well.
 
I'm a total newbie about using milk in soaps, but I know that cooked milk carmelizes to brown, especially with sugars. Only way I think it would work with HP is powdered milk as mentioned.
Otherwise you get dulce de leche

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I hp and I add the goat milk powder after the cook. It doesn't discolor this way. I follow the directions that's on the container for how much to add. If I remember correctly, it states 2 Tblsp per 8 oz of water. So I use 4 Tblsp for a 2 lb batch, I mix it with just enough water to dissolve it.
 
If you use GM as your lye water and then do HP, your soap will be a caramel colour. Full stop. No way around that method.


You could try HP with 1/2 water and add 1/2 GM after the cook. I read about this somewhere but for me this didn't work out so well.

I tried this method a couple weeks back and with only 1/2 water the soap was very stiff after the cook. So stiff in fact that I couldn't incorporate the GM fully and wound up with a marbled bar.

ETA - and the GM part turned light brown anyway. That may have been the FO though.
 
Dissolve you milk powder in glycerin and mix it in soap after it's ready and removed from heat sores.
 
I didn't use full goat's milk to replace the water . . . just used enough water to dissolve the lye and made up the diff with fresh goat milk. Definitely not the nice, creamy look I get with CP but not as caramelized as the dulce de leche. I think it kinda looks like bread. Next time I will try the powdered GM and hope for less discoloration. Thanks for the tips everyone!

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My favorite esy real milk HP has 1:1 water lye concentration. Strong solution like this with oils going to gel very quick. Couple batches was ready in 20 minutes, but normally it take 40-60 minutes on top of wood burner or in double boiler. When PH lower than 10 it's ready. After it's ready you can add up to 3:1 warm milk to lye (depends on original hardness of your recipe). Cook it until everything dissolve properly. Sometimes I like to add some whitening ZO or TO, but it's never pure white soap, olways lil creamy.
 

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