Thank you for the additional information. It's helpful.
The lye concentration is about 31%, so the water content could be lower. I'd set the lye concentration to 40% for example. But be ready for the soap to overheat with less water -- coconut oil soap tends to get pretty warm during saponification. That said, your batch size is rather small so overheating is less of an issue.
It may seem counter intuitive, but you also want to ensure the soap gets warm enough to go into the gel phase. So too cool isn't good, but too hot isn't good either.
As @ScentimentallyYours mentioned, a soap high in stearic and palmitic acids is going to be a physically hard soap. If you don't want to use commercial stearic acid or soy wax (hydrogenated soybean oil), you might get what you want by making an all-tallow or mostly-tallow soap. Tallow can be harder than an all-coconut soap to the point of being too brittle and hard to cut. You'll also want to use a lower water content and ensure the soap gels.
The lye concentration is about 31%, so the water content could be lower. I'd set the lye concentration to 40% for example. But be ready for the soap to overheat with less water -- coconut oil soap tends to get pretty warm during saponification. That said, your batch size is rather small so overheating is less of an issue.
It may seem counter intuitive, but you also want to ensure the soap gets warm enough to go into the gel phase. So too cool isn't good, but too hot isn't good either.
As @ScentimentallyYours mentioned, a soap high in stearic and palmitic acids is going to be a physically hard soap. If you don't want to use commercial stearic acid or soy wax (hydrogenated soybean oil), you might get what you want by making an all-tallow or mostly-tallow soap. Tallow can be harder than an all-coconut soap to the point of being too brittle and hard to cut. You'll also want to use a lower water content and ensure the soap gels.