how to make a runny / liquidy lotion with beeswax?

[Earthchild]

Ah, the Vit E as preservative, beeswax is an emulsifier crowd. It's always so frustrating, but what can you do? Those of us who have done the most rudimentary, basic research into cosmetic chemistry/formulation know better. It's just unfortunate that these people get out and sell their products, thereby giving reputable sellers who work hard to formulate a quality product a bad name. I was just at my local co-op a few days ago and there was the locally made cream with oil, water, beeswax, no preservative and a tester jar - FULL OF MOLD! Surprise, surprise. And a gross layer of oil sitting on top to boot. I took the cream to the store owner, who was very embarrassed. I just explained to her that you can expect nothing else from this type of formula. Hopefully they will no longer be carrying this persons products.

For the record, there is no such thing as an "all-natural" ingredient. Everything we use has been processed, everything. Unless you are growing your own almonds, expeller or cold pressing them yourself, and packaging them in sterile conditions, you are buying processed, chemically-exposed almond oil. It's the nature of the world, and we are all better off for it! I love "all-natural" ingredients, but not so natural it supports life on its own! Also, any contaminated lotion (and you can't see microscopic contamination) rubbed into abraded skin can cause staff and other nasty infections. Not only is it irresponsible to inflict these things on other people because you are uninformed, but it also opens the door to lawsuits. That seems fair for the irresponsible crafter, but not for the distrust in homecrafting it breeds, thereby hurting the rest of us.

Lastly, beeswax as an emulsifier has been discussed at length on this and other forums. Here's what I had to say last time:

"we are confusing "binding/hardening/thickening agent" with "emulsifier" - a common mistake. Here is the definition of emulsion: "emulsions are combination of oil and water held together by a bridge (an emulsifier) that has a water-loving and an oil-loving end." Beeswax is commonly referred to as an emulsifier, but it technically is not; it is only an "emulsifier" in the sense that it can bind oil and wax or butter (all hydrophobic substances). But beeswax on its own does not have the chemical composition to take a hydrophobic substance, such as oil, and make it hydrophilic (water loving). Beeswax "adds hardness and works with borax to emulsify ingredients." If a water/oil emulsion is created without the use of an alkali/soaping agent (ie borax), it is likely done through continual agitation of the water/oil combo, which redistributes the water molecules - but only temporarily. Without repeated agitation this emulsion will not remain stable. Parafin, soy, candelilla wax - all of these are simply wax compounds very similar to beeswax that lend thickness to a cream, but cannot bind water molecules on their own.

Which is why we add an alkali, such as borax (or ingredients such as lecithin though it is less stable). "The beeswax is emulsified by the borax to yield fatty acid borates (salts) and fatty alcohols. It’s kind of like making a soap out of borax. The borax actually makes the emulsifier." This is why we use borax in laundry - it emulsifies fats in water. I have also been doing this for more than ten years, and I don't want anyone to go through the same frustration I went through in the beginning - or waste as many materials! When I see a recipe that lists beeswax and water, but no ingredient to emulsify the beeswax, I just skip it. I know it does not have the chemical composition to be a stable emulsion with a lovely texture."

Just a little knowledge goes a very long (safe) way!

 

[soapbuddy]

A lot of people base their lotion or cream on Galen's cold cream recipe.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cold_cream
His invention didn't have a preservative, but that's because preservatives of today were not available 2,000 years ago. During that time period many medicines were not available, penicillin has not been invented yet and many people died from diseases that are preventable today.

 

[Earthchild]

Galen's cream, and others like it, are valuable formulations. The difference here is that they are water-in-oil formulas (cream, cold cream), as opposed to oil-in-water formulas (lotions). The only type of emulsion compatible with beeswax/borax is the w/o formulation, as it does not have the stability issues of a o/w formula. But beeswax/borax is not the most suitable for the thin lotion the OP is looking for. Though the OP didn't want to use borax either, I understand, so I'm not sure what the answer is.

 

[Rhea]

Well hello! I've been making lotions for a while and I do not use preservatives either! I have studied a lot, and I concluded that preservatives are really needed for commercial lotions because they store these things for up to 3 years! The thing is, that when you make a homemade lotion, the point is to use it as fresh as possible, not put it on the shelf to make a collection of floral aromas! Unless your lotion stings it is ok! If once it smelled like roses and now smells like cheese, then it has gone bad, probably because of the pH levels elevated (cause as we know acid protects from bacteria, that's why we use lemon as a house cleanser ).

Even If you see mold on it ( which I have only seen when using xanthan gum trying to make it somewhat gel-like), mold only stays on surface and you can get rid of it. I would throw them away, but if you don't want to, then be aware because there might be a rash or itchiness. Then throw them away ASAP.

Also if you use sterile water and equipment, it is quite impossible to get fungi or bacteria, if you get, you should probably blame your dirty hands (if sticking fingers in them) - no offence! has happened to me! Anyways, I'm going back to work after a month, so I should examine the all-natural lotions, by cultivating some samples of older and newer lotions of mine. I'll let you know what kind of bacteria or fungi grew, if any!

As for the emulsifiers, nothing is 100% safe. You just have to read, and make your decisions. Borax is a cleanser and if used for years, it can bleach the skin. Lecithin can be toxic for some people. both of then provide w/o emultions, which means you don't get that much hydrated, but surtainly absorb all the good oil quallities. (haven't really studied about the stearic acid, but I hear it can cause irritation, too)

If you want a BIG TIME hydrating lotion, you have the other two options: ewax. it can either be of sls or PEGs, one creating skin irritation, dehydration and blindness (this is true, when used close to the eye) and the other it is said to elevate hormone levels ( women hormons).

I personally use PEG ewax for an o/w emulsion, because from what I have read, it seems less harmful from sls, but I try using as little as possible! For an w/o, I use a co-emulsifier (cetyl alcohol) because it is the most natural I can get, and I don't mind my lotion seperating and shaking it again. If you use shea butter and heavy oils, it might not separate at all!

I hope somebody can tell an opinion!

 

[Hazel]

I suggest you do further research in lotion making. I highly recommend Swift's blog. http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/

Yeast, bacteria, fungi and mold can all start to grow with 24 hours in an unpreserved product. Why Cosmetics Need a Preservative

 

[Lindy]

Well hello! I've been making lotions for a while and I do not use preservatives either! I have studied a lot, and I concluded that preservatives are really needed for commercial lotions because they store these things for up to 3 years! The thing is, that when you make a homemade lotion, the point is to use it as fresh as possible, not put it on the shelf to make a collection of floral aromas! Unless your lotion stings it is ok! If once it smelled like roses and now smells like cheese, then it has gone bad, probably because of the pH levels elevated (cause as we know acid protects from bacteria, that's why we use lemon as a house cleanser ). Rhea preservatives are necessary, end of discussion. There is hard science behind this, not a bunch of woo woo stuff. I'm not talking about preserving it into the next century, but I want it to last long enough to be used up, which is 6 months after opening. There are preservatives these days that are eco-certified - Geo-Guard is the first one that comes to mind. When testing a lotion to see if it has "gone off" it can be much subtler than smell of appearance. Unless you have a testing kit then you really have no idea what's growing in there. If you don't believe me, send your lotion out for a challenge test.

Even If you see mold on it ( which I have only seen when using xanthan gum trying to make it somewhat gel-like), mold only stays on surface and you can get rid of it. I would throw them away, but if you don't want to, then be aware because there might be a rash or itchiness. Then throw them away ASAP. Again you have to be kidding right? It's only on the surface? If you see mold on a product throw it out, do not pass go or your trash tin, get rid of it as quickly as you can.

Also if you use sterile water and equipment, it is quite impossible to get fungi or bacteria, if you get, you should probably blame your dirty hands (if sticking fingers in them) - no offence! has happened to me! Anyways, I'm going back to work after a month, so I should examine the all-natural lotions, by cultivating some samples of older and newer lotions of mine. I'll let you know what kind of bacteria or fungi grew, if any! Uhm please refer to my previous comments.

As for the emulsifiers, nothing is 100% safe. You just have to read, and make your decisions. Borax is a cleanser and if used for years, it can bleach the skin. Lecithin can be toxic for some people. both of then provide w/o emultions, which means you don't get that much hydrated, but surtainly absorb all the good oil quallities. (haven't really studied about the stearic acid, but I hear it can cause irritation, too) Please do some research on emulsifiers being used in this decade. People do not use Borax as an emulsyfier, Stearic Acid is vegetable based - many oils that we use already contain it and it is usually extracted from Palm or Coconut oils. Like anything too much can cause irritation.

If you want a BIG TIME hydrating lotion, you have the other two options: ewax. it can either be of sls or PEGs, one creating skin irritation, dehydration and blindness (this is true, when used close to the eye) and the other it is said to elevate hormone levels ( women hormons). I would really, really like to see where you are getting your information. So let's start a tutorial, shall we? E-Wax is not SLS or PEGS, these things are totally different creature. Please go a google on them, or better yet go onto one of the suppliers sites so you can look at the INCI which is what is going to tell you what is in the product. The INCI for E-Wax is, Emulsifying Wax NF - that does not read Sodium Laurel Sulfate which is SLS.

I personally use PEG ewax for an o/w emulsion, because from what I have read, it seems less harmful from sls, but I try using as little as possible! For an w/o, I use a co-emulsifier (cetyl alcohol) because it is the most natural I can get, and I don't mind my lotion seperating and shaking it again. If you use shea butter and heavy oils, it might not separate at all! Again PEG is not an emulsilfier

I hope somebody can tell an opinion!

Please, take the time to do some serious research. There are some fabulous tutorials and recipes on this site. There are many members who have successfully being making safe lotions that are available for sale for many years and if you are willing to actually learn from them, they will share that experience.

So much of the advice you are sharing is actually dangerous, and again if you aren't concerned for your health and safety that's fine, but please don't put other people's health and safety at risk.

I'm sorry I sound so harsh, and perhaps a little sarcastic on this, but you have no idea how many people come in here spreading nonsense like this. This is a teaching forum and because it is, safety MUST be our first concern.

 

[Rhea]

Hi again, thank you Hazel for the website you provided me with, it was very kind of you.

Lindy, your cristisism to my opinion is more than welcomed, and you don't have to be offensive or harsh if you don't want to, whichever the case, I really do not mind. I have one question though, are you concerned about the bacteria-attitude I mentioned, or did you find something else wrong too? (because i didn't get that, and if you did I would like to know your opinion).

and yes, I have been studying a lot, I even graduated face aesthetics, that's why I am quite sure that when a product is no good anymore, it changes consistancy and odour. I am not saying anything against your opinion of safety though, don't be confused but it seems like every preservative available is considered dangerous, so I would rather use my lotion for 2 months, keeping it in the fridge, without any more chemicals( ewax is enough).

Do you know any safe preservative, apart from essential oils(which I know don't work as preservatives exactly) or citric acid(same here)?

(sorry for the spelling mistakes)

 

[Rhea]

I am sorry I am new to this site, I just saw you comments, I'm going to read them now, thank you!

 

[Rhea]

I will name my paragraphs 1...6! ok?

1) ok, I will check up on this preservative, thank you. and as for a challenge testing, that's what I said, I am going to test them at work, I am a medical lab assistant, I can cultivate anything and get a result in 48 hours, I will let you know! (but I am on vacation, so until September I won't be able to do it).

2) I said I throw them away, but if somebody, who doesn't want preservatives, and wants to keep the molded product, should be careful because rashes and itchyness will probably occur. and if so, then 100% should through it away. I did say that.

3) I 'm testing it next month, and, do blame your dirty hands! you have no idea what's on them! that's why pump lotion bottles should be used as a default bottle. it is best.

4) I know that it is part of some oils, but still, if I use it up to 2 percent (which is the most you should use), I don't know what is going to happen. and as I said, I am not that much into stearic acid, I have no idea what is going on in terms of safety. I mentioned it, as simple as that.

5) ok now, you are being irrational (no offence). do you know what vegetable ewax is made of? it is made out of cetearyl alcohol and a) the non NF formula: SLS which is sodium laurYL sulfate ( sodium laureth sulfate is mentioned as SLES). particularly, 80% of cetearyl alcohol and 20% of SLS. this kind of ewax (which people often use in soaps in europe) can be used up to 10% tops, 2% of SLS is said to be ok, but the real safe percentage is less than 0.5% of SLS, which means it is safe to use aproximately 1/4 of tsp of that wax. b)the NF formula is made of cetearyl alcohol and polysorbate 60. polysorbate 60 is the emulsifier. I am not stupid, I didn't say PEGs are emulsifiers, but the NF formula has PEGs in it. At least the one I am able to find. If you get ewax NF with just polysorbate and cetearyl, please suggest your supplier. so to end with this matter, I ment there are two popular ewaxes, one is made of sls and the other has PEGs. I had to seperate them somehow, so we could know what we are talking about.

6)PEG is not an emulsifier, agreed.

 

[Lindy]

I have tested lotions that looked fine the same day as being made and this was with a preservative which ended up being defective and had huge cultures of bacteria showing up immediately. I never use ungloved hands when making my products because I do want to make sure I'm not passing over bacteria from my skin to the product. My jars and bottles are pre-sterilized using ethanol. There was no indication in the cream visually or scent wise to indicate that there was a problem, it was only by testing that I discovered that the preservative had failed. As Hazel mentioned bacteria starts to grow within 24 hours in a product.

There are a couple of different Emulsifying waxes. E-Wax NF & BTMS. BTMS contains more ingredients than E-Wax and the INCI for it demonstrates it (Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol) whereas E-Wax is Emulsifying Wax NF and is also sold under the brand name of Polowax.

I came down hard on you because you were making recommendations that were simply unsafe. Have you ever seen what bacteria, yeast and mold in a lotion can do to skin? Staph is present in pretty much everything including human skin. Unpreserved lotions & creams can create a staph infection and it is the antibiotic resistant staph which causes/is flesh eating disease. You are new to the forum, if you saw just how many people come through here that promote this 100% natural ideal which any experienced lotion maker knows to be dangerous. It gets really, really tiring. IF you are willing to spend the money on a preservative which is Eco-Certified then Geo-Guard is the way to go.

Supporting preservatives is not sheep being led by "The Producers", it is good science and has been proved by scientists and clinicians that are not associated to the chemical companies.

Take the time to read some of the posts here about preservatives, and please take the time to educate yourself before promoting unsafe manufacturing practices.

Cheers

 

[Hazel]

and yes, I have been studying a lot, I even graduated face aesthetics, that's why I am quite sure that when a product is no good anymore, it changes consistancy and odour.

I am a state licensed esthetician and I don't know what school you attended but at my school we had classes that covered microbiology, skin diseases, infection control and cosmetic ingredients which included preservatives. Products certainly can have microorganisms growing in them without any physical change in color, consistency or odor. You might consider doing more research on pathogenic bacteria.

I didn't think Lindy's comments sounded harsh at all. I appreciate her sharing her knowledge and I also recommend you go through the forum and read her older posts. You'll learn a lot from her. If you read through the Bath and Body Forum, you'll find numerous discussions on preservatives and why we support the use of them.

Finally, this forum advocates good manufacturing practices and the use of preservatives in all products whether for personal use or for selling.