How much effect do specific oils have?

[jgeraci]

I've been making soap for a little while, but I've only used fairly standard oils so far. I've used Palm, Coconut, Tallow, Lard, Olive, and Castor oil. I have a "standard" recipe I now use, and it turns out pretty nice.

My subject isn't specific enough, but I didn't want to make it too long. I know that there is a huge difference in the soap based on the oils used. I'm specifically talking about adding in more expensive oils/butters like avocado, shea, and cocoa. If I run a recipe using the fancier oils through Soapcalc, and end up with basically the same fatty acid profile (or really close) to my standard recipe, will the soap be the same? Or are there other properties of oils that aren't a result of the fatty acids?

For example, this is my standard recipe:

Lauric 13
Myristic 5
Palmitic 17
Stearic 3
Ricinoleic 7
Oleic 41
Linoleic 9
Linolenic 0

Hardness 39
Cleansing 18
Conditioning 57
Bubbly 25
Creamy 27
Iodine 58
INS 155

And this is the one including Shea butter and avocado oil:

Lauric 13
Myristic 5
Palmitic 16
Stearic 5
Ricinoleic 7
Oleic 41
Linoleic 9
Linolenic 0

Hardness 39
Cleansing 18
Conditioning 57
Bubbly 25
Creamy 28
Iodine 58
INS 153

There doesn't appear to be much difference on paper, but the second one is about 10% more expensive to make. Is there any benefit? Other than label appeal if I were to sell soap? The obvious answer is to try it myself, but I'd like to not buy extra oils if it's not going to be worth it in the end.

 

[Fragola]

Very good question, but I never seen a side by side comparison.

What I do notice is that the numbers don't add up to 100%. You still have 5% of magic in there ...

 

[green soap]

Yes, very good question. I believe it is done mostly for label appeal. Like Dr Bronner's for example, it is mostly olive and coconut, but they have small quantities of jojoba and hemp as well. The quantities of these 'fancy' oils are most likely too small to do anything (or to add too much to the cost) but they are there, so they are listed on the label.

I only use my 'fancy' oils in lotions and other leave in products, I would consider it a waste to saponify them. One can make such wonderful soap without them, and as you pointed out, the numbers are the same, or close enough.

Perhaps someone has a different experience and will post a good reason to use some of these more expensive oils.

 

[jgeraci]

Very good question, but I never seen a side by side comparison.

What I do notice is that the numbers don't add up to 100%. You still have 5% of magic in there ...

I'm thinking the missing 5% might be other fatty acids that aren't listed because they make up such a small amount in each oil. That's just what Soapcalc lists, but I know there are other fatty acids in oils. I think I'll probably try to buy just a small amount of the "fancy" oils and make a single batch to compare to my normal recipe.

 

[Cuckoo Bananas]

Just some more food for thought and that is that while the numbers might look the same for those specific things they aren't the be all and end all of soap qualities. Realistically there would be lots of things not yet named or found as specific chemicals or qualities to substances (read fancy oils in this case). So while they may have the same compositions through soap calc there may be other things there that soap calc doesn't cover. Possibly vitamins and minerals present, although I'd assume any vitamins would be destroyed in the process but minerals might stay survive.....

Of course though you have to use the oils in enough quantity to notice any difference and not do what HEAPS of products do which is just put them in such miniscule amounts that don't do anything but they are there non the less for the label appeal.

Short answer is try them...I mainly use basic oils for everyday soap but I've experimented with some fancy oils and I have to say that some of those ones where the best and soooooooo nice to use, you could definitely feel the difference. I particularly liked one high in avacado and wheatgerm oils