How can I improve texture of lotion?

[Cellador]

Hi all! Last weekend, I made a really thick foot lotion, and I love the way it feels on the skin. But, it's not very appealing in the jar- it's almost like a gelatinous blob. Lol
Any ideas on improving the texture of this recipe? I'd like it to be a bit fluffier- maybe it just needs more water?

30% Water
15% aloe vera liquid
5% glycerin
2% sodium lactate
.5% allantion

2% olive oil
7% cocoa butter
10% shea butter
3% stearic
6% soybean
6% wheat germ
7% e wax

2% panthenol
1% fragrance
.5% preservative
1% vit E
2% cyclomethicone

 

[DeeAnna]

E-wax and stearic acid both tend to make a heavier lotion/cream tending to be more like cream cheese. Cetyl alcohol and/or BTMS (aka conditioning emulsifier) tend to make a product that has a lighter texture something more like heavy whipped cream. Using cetyl or BTMS or both might help.

But I'd also try increasing the water-based liquids another 5% to 10% and see how that goes. That's a simple change.

Other possibilities that could affect the texture --

Use less glycerin. My notes say 2-3% is a typical rate with 5% or more will make things sticky. Sodium lactate is also a humectant, so you're doubling up. If it were me, I'd be more likely to use one or the other but not both.

Be careful with SL over about 3.5% -- it can make skin sensitive to light. My notes suggest using it at 0.5 to 2%, so you're on the upper end of that as well. I know this is a foot cream and you're not likely to have your feet out in the sun this time of year, but still....

Use less of the butters and more liquid oils and/or experiment with using slightly less thickener (stearic). This will tend to loosen and lighten the texture as well. If you go too low on these thickeners, the texture can become curdly looking, however.

 

[Cellador]

Thanks, Deanna! I did intend to make a really thick lotion that would remain on the skin for awhile, so that's why I used a higher perentage of butters & stearic.
It's pretty humid here most of the time, so I was hoping the additional humectant amounts would help the feet feel moisturized for a longer period of time (especially if you throw on a pair of cotton socks for awhile). Plus, I heard sodium lactate might add some exfoliation qualities...
But, I think I will try again with a different emulsifier & cetyl alcohol & see if it helps with the texture.
Thanks again for your feedback!

 

[DeeAnna]

I think more humectant doesn't necessarily translate to more moisturization. The skin can absorb only so much water from the surrounding air and the underlying tissues. Your approach of using a humectant plus the heavier butters is a good one for long term softening of calloused skin. I also think SL can help the skin regenerate and slough off dead cells faster.

 

[SoapingChick]

Not adressing the texture but for the moisturizing/humectant/exfoliant aspects - do you know urea? I love love love this is my foot creams (and in everything for dry skin) I use at 10% in my foot cream. It is keratolytic, meaning it helps eliminate dead skin cells and can also help with acneprone skin and scalp problems. It's cheap, very easy to work with and gentle. I recommend!

I remember reading over at Susan (swiftcraftymonkey blog) that she makes a footcream with 25% glycerin! Haven't tried it myself. Yet

Happy making!

 

[Cellador]

Not adressing the texture but for the moisturizing/humectant/exfoliant aspects - do you know urea? I love love love this is my foot creams (and in everything for dry skin) I use at 10% in my foot cream. It is keratolytic, meaning it helps eliminate dead skin cells and can also help with acneprone skin and scalp problems. It's cheap, very easy to work with and gentle. I recommend!

I have used some store-bought foot creams with urea before, but I never considered it might be something a home crafter could purchase and work with (I don't know why). Thanks for the recommendation!