http://www.pallasathenesoap.com/articles/EssenOil.pdf
QUOTE:
TIPS TO GIVE YOUR EOs MORE STAYING POWER
Cure cold process soap 4 weeks.
Fleeting scent falls to half-strength after about 24 weeks.
Don’t make soap until it is needed.
Once made and cured, SELL it or USE it as soon as possible.
Add EOs as the last step before pouring the formula into molds.
“MELT-AND-POUR” (M & P) process is the kindest to EOs.
Use15 drops of EOs per 1 pound of melted soap.
Add immediately before pouring into molds.
COLD PROCESS (CP)
Use 1.5 teaspoons of EOs per 1 pound of soap.
If a blend does not hold up well, use more.
Store each scent in a different cardboard box, to reinforce the aroma.
Cotton balls soaked in the scent helps to perpetuate the fragrance.
COMBINE THE EOS WITH A FIXATIVE
Bentonite clay, castor oil, glycerin, oat flour, pumice, olive oil
Unsaponifiables (or slow to saponify) are the most effective fixative.
Mix EOs with the fixative and store in an airtight container.
Add as the last step before pouring the CP soap into the mold.
Cover batch with plastic saran wrap to impede dissipation.
BLEND TWO OR MORE EOS TO IMPROVE THE DURATION OF SCENT.
EOs’ scents may generally be categorized as top (high), middle, or base (low) notes. Top notes (such as citrus) generally tend to be more fleeting than middle or base notes. Base notes tend to have more staying power. A blend of top, middle, and base notes has the most staying potential.
Anchor citrus EOs with litsea cubeba.
Anchor other blends with balsam, benzoin, patchouli and anise.
10% benzoin or patchouli
20% other base notes
30% middle notes
40% top notes.
END QUOTE
In additiion to the above, I've found that lard soap retains scent well.
10% Oakmoss Absolute diluted in 90% jojoba oil is a good anchor that works well with most scents.
Rather than bentonite clay that adds color, I prefer white Kaolin clay to help retain scent and also lay a foundation for colorants and whitens white soap - Use Rate: 1 tsp - 1 Tbls PPO.
My favorite starch for retaining scent is Bob's Red Mill Potato Starch. Oat Flour is another dry ingredient that is also soothing to parched skin.
Lately, I feel the best way to add more staying power is to combine the EO or blend with a compatible FO.
HTH