Grainy Texture in High-Oil Cream - any solutions?

[jessicammorton]

Hello!

I have been making a night cream that is 50% oil phase, 40% water phase, and 10% stabilizer. The cream emulsifies nicely at first and is thick and smooth, but after several weeks of storage the fats (I think) begin to crystallize ever so slightly. These melt immediately into the skin, but the initial texture is not as creamy as I'd like. I incorporate shea and illipe butters into the blend and use honey and beewswax as well. Any ideas on how to address this problem?

Much thanks

 

[jessicammorton]

Hello!

I have been making a night cream that is 50% oil phase, 40% water phase, and 10% stabilizer. The cream emulsifies nicely at first and is thick and smooth, but after several weeks of storage the fats (I think) begin to crystallize ever so slightly. These melt immediately into the skin, but the initial texture is not as creamy as I'd like. I incorporate shea and illipe butters into the blend and use honey and beewswax as well. Any ideas on how to address this problem?

Much thanks

Haha, I will answer this one myself...seems like the problem is the shea butter I was using, and that if you temper the shea butter before mixing (heat to 130 degrees, then cool quickly in the freezer) this should solve the problem. Also, mixing very well with a stick blender and then giving the finished cream a quick cool-down in their containers (again, in the freezer) is another safe guard. Technique, technique!