@Mobjack Bay Thanks so much for your insights! I'm going to try again.
Interesting about the turquoise color on your ipad!
Interesting about the turquoise color on your ipad!
Oof, that pressure Let's see if I can improvise over it:I think the very small size of oxide pigment particles could be playing a role in how the color looks/light reflects at the edges between colored and white soap. Maybe @ResolvableOwl can weigh in on this.
I don't quite understand? Quinizarine green is an organic dye, not an oxide as in “iron/zinc/titanium oxide”. I don't get why they sell it as “oxide” – maybe they use a neutral (white) carrier oxide to make the organic pigment easier to disperse (and/or give it am more opaque appearance).I bought oxide called quinizarine green CI 61565
I’m getting are a bit more WYSWYG than with some of the micas I’ve been using.
Could maybe be a useful tool if attempting an ombre effect...And I guess it's not so terrible to use it for uniformly colored soap.
Emily Shieh shows a comparison of bleeding and non-bleeding colorants onCould maybe be a useful tool if attempting an ombre effect...
Very kind of you! Thanks!@SoapSisters Can you please point us to what's wrong with these soaps? I definitely see nothing ugly there.
Very pleasing colors!I had a soapalooza kind of day yesterday, mostly playing around with oxides to get pastel colors. I had dabbled a little last fall, but then saw something shiny (probably a challenge...) and went off in another direction. It looks like chromium green oxide with a tiny pinch of brown (or a discoloring FO, or an otherwise tannish base) could be the way to achieve my favorite green without using a matcha tea infusion. I’ve also had a hard time getting a cool-tinted blue, but like the color from ultramarine blue with a pinch of black oxide in a very white base (nothing was added to the base, which is tallow, lard, RBO, EVOO, CO and castor). With mica I tend to end up with the blue being too grey or turning green from a yellowish FO unless I use a ridiculous amount of mica and TD, which I tend to avoid. I ordered the pigments in a set, so I also made a lavender soap using violet ultramarine, with a little Ultra Violet mica (Nurture, discontinued) added in for the top layer. It’s nice enough, but the violet pigment is a bit dull on its own. Luckily, I have a large enough bag of the mica to last forever.
I started with about 1/4 - 1/2 tsp of each color (scooped with a palette knife), dispersed it in water, and then added enough to get the color I wanted. My batches were 1000 - 1200 g oils.
View attachment 51573
@TheGecko yes to the mixing. Even when I disperse oxides and ultramarines into water or glycerin using a frother or a mini-paint mixer attachment, the colors added to batter intensify significantly with a quick pulse of the stick blender. I haven’t tried dispersing oxides in oil as suggested by @Vicki C , but will the next time I mix colorants. Vicki, have you tried the ultramarines in oil? As far as I can tell, Yvonne (youtube) mixes oxides and ultramarines in oil.
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