First timer using Lye did I do it right?

[Zany_in_CO]

Yes this is my website I sell seamoss www.AlkalineEmporium.com I just want to make soap for my business T & E

Terrific! Thank you for that link.

TIP: The first rule of soap making is PATIENCE. LOL So, keep good notes during cure. I await reading results as soon as they are available.

 

[alkalineSeamoss]

Wi

One issue with your recipe is that hempseed oil and grapeseed oil have short shelf lives. They really aren't bringing anything good to the soap and they are likely to make your soap go rancid. I'm not sure about walnut oil. On the other hand, Avocado and Olive oil have longer shelf lives and make better soap in general.

will the soap go bad during the curing process? Should I refrigerate it? Or try to use it myself before curing process over

Terrific! Thank you for that link.

I found 2 tutorials on YouTube for making Soap from Seamoss Gel. Unfortunately, neither gives the precise amount of ingredients used. Even more critical, neither gives the amount of NaOH + water to make the lye solution -- which seems to be the crux of the matter for making your soap.

The reason I brought up the subject of "Irish Sea Moss" is because I've had a long time interest in learning how to use it in soap. I got so far in my research (a looooong time ago) to understand that, unlike other types of sea weed like Kelp, it has the ability to create a healthy gel used in recipes for an alkaline diet.

In the USA, Irish Sea Moss is used to make Carrageenan, approved by the FDA and widely used in the food industry. Here's a note from Wikipedia:

"Gelatinous extracts of the Chondrus crispus (Irish moss) seaweed have been used as food additives since approximately the fifteenth century.[1] Carrageenan is a vegetarian and vegan alternative to gelatin in some applications or may be used to replace gelatin in confectionery."


I agree with @dixiedragon post #31 High Olive Oil, a little Coconut Oil, plus a smidge of Avocado oil would make a lovely basic soap to start with.

The "sliminess" is due to the high iodine content of the grapeseed, hempseed and walnut oils. I can only guess at the amount of unsaponifiables, i.e., amount of free oil that remains after saponification (process of becoming soap.)

Okay. Now for your original question... "Using lye, did I do it right?"
I compared your MMS calculation in post #6 which is half of what you posted in post #1.
What really had me scratching my head was how you came up with 3.24 oz. of NaOH (lye) ???
Well, then it became obvious... you simply doubled the amount of NaOH for 6% "excess fat" used in the MMS calculation in post #6.
2 X 1.62 oz. = 3.24 oz.

So, since you simply doubled the amounts in your first calculation, rather than recalculating the amount of NaOH needed for double the amount of oils, then that's a major no-no.
Here's what I got when I recalculated the NaOH amount for double the oils:

View attachment 50922

So if the correct amount of NaOH at 6% superfat ("excess fat") is 2.74 oz., then
3.24 oz. - 2.74 oz. is 0.5 oz. lye heavy!

That being said, it may work out for the best because it may just be the right amount to use up any excess oils from the choice of oils used to make up the soap. I often use 0% SF (superfat) to saponify the unsaponifiables to whatever degree possible when using oils that are high in them. In other words, your calculation of 3.24 oz. works like a -0% SF according to the chart above.

TIP: The first rule of soap making is PATIENCE. LOL So, keep good notes during cure. I await reading results as soon as they are available.
View attachment 50925

Almost forgot... here's the calculation for your formula using the default setting on SoapCalc.

View attachment 50926

Please note the last panel "Soap Bar Quality" to compare Your Recipe to the recommended Range for the various qualities of soap. An INS value of 160 is considered "perfect" soap.

Hey zany maybe you didn’t notice the 2oz. shae butter and olive oil in that last calculation. I mentioned it in a follow up post. Sorry to make you go through that screen share. Thank you for your wisdom.

 

[DeeAnna]

...The "sliminess" is due to the high iodine content of the grapeseed, hempseed and walnut oils....

These fats are high in polyunsaturated fatty acids, which means they have a high Iodine Number. The Iodine Number is a chemical test that uses an iodine-based chemical. The answer from this test is an indicator of how saturated or unsaturated the fatty acids are in a particular fat.

The fats don't actually contain iodine, however.

 

[Zany_in_CO]

These fats are high in polyunsaturated fatty acids, which means they have a high Iodine Number. The Iodine Number is a chemical test that uses an iodine-based chemical. The answer from this test is an indicator of how saturated or unsaturated the fatty acids are in a particular fat.

The fats don't actually contain iodine, however.

LOL So sorry. I know the fats don't contain iodine! (I'm laughing as I type). Thank you, @DeeAnna for that explanation. So much better than what I said. I actually thought you might catch that.

 

[Zany_in_CO]

Hey zany maybe you didn’t notice the 2oz. shae butter and olive oil in that last calculation. I mentioned it in a follow up post. Sorry to make you go through that screen share. Thank you for your wisdom.

You're right. I totally missed that.

I also owe apologies to you and especially to @dixiedragon and @KimW for repeating stuff they already wrote. My bad for not reading all the posts in the entire thread. I think I'll go lie down in my bed and pull the covers over my head now.

 

[dixiedragon]

Wi

will the soap go bad during the curing process? Should I refrigerate it? Or try to use it myself before curing process over


Don't use it before the curing process - the soap will be VERY harsh and drying and you won't like it. While curing, put the soap someplace where it doesn't get a lot of direct sunlight and where there is good air circulation. I like to cure my soap in a room with a dehumidifier. For the future though, I would not use the grapeseed or the hemp oils, and probably not the walnut, though I don't have much info on that.

 

[Zing]

Welcome, welcome, @alkalineSeamoss ! I know you are getting a ton of advice here -- but I'll add my 2 cents anyway! My first soaps had only 3 or 4 oils and lye/water --no colorants, scents, or additives. It gave me good experience on the chemistry before I branched out into swirls, colors and scents. Keep us posted on your progress!

 

[alkalineSeamoss]

Hey so it’s been 4 weeks curing now almost. Wondering when I’ll be able to test it out in the shower. Giving thanks!!!

 

[Zany_in_CO]

Hey so it’s been 4 weeks curing now almost. Wondering when I’ll be able to test it out in the shower.

How much patience do you have?

Seriously, though, I don't know about other members, but I usually have a sample from every batch that I use to wash my hands shortly after starting the cure -- at least once a week. Take notes.

 

[alkalineSeamoss]

Hey all thanks for the help! So after 6 weeks they definitely got a lot harder that last week.

They are nice in the shower, maybe don’t last very long as you would think? Maybe 10 showers?

well I want to do a new batch soon. (Should have done a batch a few weeks ago I guess) but I want to do it slightly better. I can’t really say anything bad about it other than that it runs out fast?

the 5 samples I gave away everyone said they were nice.

well thanks what do you think