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I’m feeling pretty proud of myself, I did my homework and swapped out palm oil for shortening and converted to a 3:1 lye to water ratio, ran it through soapcalc and make some hot process soap today. The recipe I used ended up being
32% GV shortening
32% Olive oil
32% Coconut Oil
4% Castor Oil
5% super fat
I got a little carried away and added color and FO also ( Go big or go home,right???? )

I learned really suck at putting the batter in the molds though! I had it all over my fingers, the mold, the spatula and the table. I got lucky, the FO didn’t accelerate on me. I also learned a very important lesson to not stir the batter too much, since it started to harden on me partway through my awkward attempts of slopping soap into a mold. The more I tried to smooth it out, the bigger mess I made! The top is really ugly ( I shaved most of the ugly off) I know it will be better as it cures but the little soap ball I made from the left over feels so nice. It does feel like it leaves some oil behind, do you know why? The oil percentage, to high super fat, too much FO or is that slippery feel just the nature of homemade soap?
 

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Congratulations! Yes it is more likely that the oil residue is just the nature of handmade soap, if you've not tried it before. My son doesn't like it because he wants it to rinse off clean and leave his hands dry and 'squeaky clean'. You can reduce the superfat a wee bit once you are more experienced. But if you are going to keep the CO that high I would probably leave it.
 
Congratulations on your first soap!

I don't know how soon after making you tested, but don't judge too early as the soap will change over the first weeks.

You mentioned using a "3:1 lye to water ratio". I think you mean "3:1 water to lye ratio". 3:1 water to lye is a lot of water - 25% lye concentration. A more common recommendation is 2:1 water to lye, which results in 33.33% lye concentration.

Edited to add: Was this hot process soap? I didn't read that above, but you mentioned hot process in your intro post thread. If HP, then 25% lye concentration would be fine.
 
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Congratulations on your first soap. HP soap does not have a smooth pour as does most CP soap. You can smooth the soap out a little by adding a little cream, yogurt or (powdered milk mixed with enough hot water to completely dissolve the powder). I do not do a water discount when making HP soap. IMO, this method does better with full water.
 
Congratulations on your first soap!

I don't know how soon after making you tested, but don't judge too early as the soap will change over the first weeks.

You mentioned using a "3:1 lye to water ratio". I think you mean "3:1 water to lye ratio". 3:1 water to lye is a lot of water - 25% lye concentration. A more common recommendation is 2:1 water to lye, which results in 33.33% lye concentration.

Edited to add: Was this hot process soap? I didn't read that above, but you mentioned hot process in your intro post thread. If HP, then 25% lye concentration would be fine.
Whoops! Yes I did mean water to lye! What would be the recommended ratio to plus into soap calc? Math is not my strong point

Congratulations on your first soap. HP soap does not have a smooth pour as does most CP soap. You can smooth the soap out a little by adding a little cream, yogurt or (powdered milk mixed with enough hot water to completely dissolve the powder). I do not do a water discount when making HP soap. IMO, this method does better with full water.
Whoops! Yes I did mean water to lye! What would be the recommended ratio to plus into soap calc? Math is not my strong point! I like the idea of yogurt, what’s the suggested amount?
 
Whoops! Yes I did mean water to lye! What would be the recommended ratio to plus into soap calc? Math is not my strong point
I recommend using lye concentration rather than ratios because it's easier to remember and compare with others. For CP soap, select lye concentration and enter 33%. For HP I think you're fine with 25% lye concentration, but I'm not an HP expert.
 
Whoops! Yes I did mean water to lye! What would be the recommended ratio to plus into soap calc? Math is not my strong point! I like the idea of yogurt, what’s the suggested amount?
I wouldn't add more than 1 ounce per pound of oils. Add it after the cook and immediately before the pour.
 
I’m feeling pretty proud of myself, I did my homework and swapped out palm oil for shortening and converted to a 3:1 lye to water ratio, ran it through soapcalc and make some hot process soap today. The recipe I used ended up being
32% GV shortening
32% Olive oil
32% Coconut Oil
4% Castor Oil
5% super fat
I got a little carried away and added color and FO also ( Go big or go home,right???? )

I learned really suck at putting the batter in the molds though! I had it all over my fingers, the mold, the spatula and the table. I got lucky, the FO didn’t accelerate on me. I also learned a very important lesson to not stir the batter too much, since it started to harden on me partway through my awkward attempts of slopping soap into a mold. The more I tried to smooth it out, the bigger mess I made! The top is really ugly ( I shaved most of the ugly off) I know it will be better as it cures but the little soap ball I made from the left over feels so nice. It does feel like it leaves some oil behind, do you know why? The oil percentage, to high super fat, too much FO or is that slippery feel just the nature of homemade soap?
To Barefoot Farm girl,
I know you are just starting and it's very exciting. The thing about Walmart shortening is, how do you know how much of each ingredient is in there? Even if you guess how much Tallow and so on, why take a chance? Soapmaking has much flexibility but I don't think guessing is helpful. Make accurate calculations and then there's flexibility like with lye discounting. But from reputable vendors like Soaper's Choice. They're great! And experiment with more water than less. A 3:1 ratio or even a little more water has great results for many reasons-but see what you prefer, more water or less. Try to make a dozen batches without using any fragrance, make plain, so you can perfect your formula. Good luck.

To Barefoot Farm girl,
I know you are just starting and it's very exciting. The thing about Walmart shortening is, how do you know how much of each ingredient is in there? Even if you guess how much Tallow and so on, why take a chance? Soapmaking has much flexibility but I don't think guessing is helpful. Make accurate calculations and then there's flexibility like with lye discounting. But from reputable vendors like Soaper's Choice. They're great! And experiment with more water than less. A 3:1 ratio or even a little more water has great results for many reasons-but see what you prefer, more water or less. Try to make a dozen batches without using any fragrance, make plain, so you can perfect your formula. Good luck.
Thank! I did the GV shortening sub for Cisco shortening and water ratio based off a thread somewhere down the rabbit hole of these threads from experienced soap makers in this forum so I felt it was safe 😁 Also Crisco is listed in soapcalc as an oil, so I felt it was an ok substitute. As the bars are curing I can feel a big difference already! This is way too much fun! I haven’t done research or taken notes like this since cramming for finals in high school lol
 
Thank! I did the GV shortening sub for Cisco shortening and water ratio based off a thread somewhere down the rabbit hole of these threads from experienced soap makers in this forum so I felt it was safe 😁 Also Crisco is listed in soapcalc as an oil, so I felt it was an ok substitute. As the bars are curing I can feel a big difference already! This is way too much fun! I haven’t done research or taken notes like this since cramming for finals in high school lol
You are very cute! Research water properties! Have fun!
 
Oh no!!! More homework!!!!! That’s the next rabbit hole to dive down. Thank you so much!
It's good barefoot farm girl! The more confusing it gets and the more questions you have, means you're becoming a soapmaker! Then you'll gain more and more knowledge.
 
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