First batch recipe+FO supplier preferences

[BrewerGeorge]

I usually use 33% lye as well. Oils are close to 110F. That is, 110F is the goal but if everything is ready and they're reading 112F, I go.

 

[bumbleklutz]

Everyone here has given you great advice! Truthfully though, the only way to find out what works best for you is trial and error. That means making and using your soap, and deciding what you like about it and what you don't; then tweaking your formula from there. As an example, I can tolerate 30% coconut oil with a 5% super fat in my soap with no problem whatsoever. Many people would find that excessively drying to their skin.

I'm probably an outsider on this point, but for your first batches I would use full water. That would be a lye concentration of generally between 27 and 28 percent. That is going to give you some extra "play time" with your soap. After you're comfortable with things like recognizing emulsification, trace and false trace it's easy to use a higher lye concentration such as 30 or 33 percent.

Again, I'm probably an outsider on this point; but I love palm oil in soap. Keep in mind however that generally speaking; the more hard oils you use the faster your soap will come to trace.

This is one of my favorite soaps (given to me by a very kind old-time soaper who sold me some of my first "real" soaping supplies) from when I first started soaping:

Castor oil 5%
Cocoa butter 5%
Coconut oil 25%
Olive oil 30%
Palm oil 35%

28% lye concentration
5% super fat

Fats at 100-110 F
Lye solution 70-90 F

Hand mix to trace with a stainless steel spoon or whisk. Add fragrance oil if using and stir in well. Pour into prepared mold. Gently tap mold on a hard surface to release any trapped air bubbles. Cover surface of soap with a layer of plastic wrap and place in a draft free area. Insulate with old bath towels or blankets and do not disturb for 24 hours. After 24 hours if soap is firm to the touch it may be unmolded and cut into bars. If not, allow the soap to stand for 12 more hours and re-check for firmness. Soap should be firm enough to cut after 24 hours, however, it may take up to 48 hours depending on temperature, humidity etc. After bars are cut, allow them to cure in a cool dry area with some air circulation for six weeks before using.

 

[ibct1969]

I would say a 30 to 33% solution would be fine. I don't often swirl so I tend more to 35%. They might seem like small changes, but a couple of % can make a big difference to how it behaves

Craig, I'm still trying to figure this out too. So, on SoapCalc for example, are you referring to "Water as percentage of Oils" or "Lye Concentration"- the third step in filling out the form?

 

[The Efficacious Gentleman]

Lye concentration. The "% of oils" option is the least useful as it gives far less control over what you are doing

 

[sunny_]

I usually use 33% lye as well. Oils are close to 110F. That is, 110F is the goal but if everything is ready and they're reading 112F, I go.

I'm curious about your Safflower experiment! update

I agree with TEG. I probably use 30% most often, sometimes up to 33%, sometimes full water. I almost always have some kind of swirl going on so I don't often have a higher lye concentration.

As to temps, and I still take temperatures even though a lot of people here don't, I usually aim for 100-110 and usually closer to 100. I will soap cooler, but usually not much warmer than 110. For your first batch, I think 110 would be a good starting point.

I would say a 30 to 33% solution would be fine. I don't often swirl so I tend more to 35%. They might seem like small changes, but a couple of % can make a big difference to how it behaves

I generally interpret soaping cold at 100F or less. If you use hard oils it would be taking consideration to the temperature that the oils melt. Lard is usually around 100F while coconut is around 76F (unless specifically altered). I find Shea to be similar to lard for temperature, I don't tend to use other hard oils and can't reference the numbers for you (easily).

If it means anything for you at this point, I tend to soap around 116F. I came to this number from Soap Queen videos where she stresses having the oils and lye within 10-20 degrees of each other. I will stress that this isn't necessary. It is good practice to know what your temperatures are to control what you want to happen. There are methods that use the heat from the lye solution to melt the hard oils or the common method of letting your lye solution cool off overnight. As you learn more about your personal soaping habits you will be able to decide which numbers work for you. 116F just happens to be where my ingredients reach the temperature I'm most comfortable manipulating the soap batter.

(Also to agree with everyone else, I tend to use a 33% lye concentration)

Those of you who soap more on the colder side- (100±) do you experience soda ash in your bars? I have read on SoapQueen that when soaping cold, at thin trace and with a high water content it's more likely to get the ash.
So, 29% lye concentration, soaping at 110±, 5% SF, I plan on trying to soap with a thin trace- how likely it is to get soda ash? does gelling the soap helps prevent it?

This is my final recipe BTW:
60% Lard
20% Olive oil
15% Coconut oil
5% Castor oil

Thank you all

 

[dibbles]

It seems to me that when my soaps gel I usually don't get soda ash, and when the soaps don't gel I almost always do get ash. And I hate it. But the ash is typically only on the top for me and usually remove it. My salt bars get ash no matter what, but I love them enough to just look the other way.

 

[BrewerGeorge]

Soda ash is unreacted NaOH pulling CO2 from the air to create Na2CO3. Almost all of it will form before saponification is finished (that's why you get it on top of a loaf, but not usually on the sides after a cut.) So anything that causes slower saponification will encourage soda ash while things that speed sap will discourage it. So soaping hotter, higher water, CPOP all reduce the time that there is free NaOH to react.

In addition, you can reduce soda ash by minimizing access to the CO2. This is the isopropanol and cover technique.

 

[Dean]

QFT

I've used olive for 2 years, but I've just now begun experimenting with HO safflower (LouAna brand). If the first batch is any indication, it's going to completely replace olive for me from now on. I'm pursuing this because safflower is about a third cheaper than olive, and also clearer so the soap is whiter. But there is absolutely nothing wrong with olive. You've got that Golden Ticket recipe now - at least according to us Lardy Cultists around here, anyway. :wave:

Hello,

How does HO safflower lather?

 

[BrewerGeorge]

Hello,

How does HO safflower lather?

Pretty much just like olive. That is: not very well.

 

[penelopejane]

I wouldn’t go below 30% lye concentration for a start.
It is amazing how much difference 1% makes and it’s nice to have a little time.

I stick to 110*F to soap and I encourage gel and spray the top with isopropyl alcohol and cover my soap and don’t demold until it’s at room temp. All those combined seems to prevent soda ash for me.

 

[Dean]

Pretty much just like olive. That is: not very well.

Thanks.