Estrella soaps, what do you think?

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With the list of scents they have, I don't see any reason to doubt they are using just EO's. It would be different if they had scents that aren't achievable with EO, like banana or baby powder.

I also don't see any difference in listing EO blend then others who just list fragrance. Maybe they don't want to share the blends they are using so people can't try and copy it or maybe they are like 10 different EO's and it would be silly to list them all.

The natural almond scent could simply be a almond EO, it does exist. I know many companies are shady about the scents they use but you guys are starting to rip on someone just because you don't like their labels?

I think they are being deceptive about some of the fragrances, which is very common. They list the Root Beer one as being scented with 'essential oils' and the ones with vanilla say 'natural scent'. The only thing that could mean is vanilla extract and I bet that is not what they are using. I have never come across almond EO ('bitter almond' yes but that comes from apricot kernels and the cheapest I've seen that at is $60 per oz). I also highly doubt the sandalwood one has EO because it would be so expensive at the levels needed for soap.

My background is as an aromatherapist and natural perfumer (these days I use FOs too because of the limitations and cost of many EOs) so my BS detector is pretty finely tuned and I would not buy from this company because if they are being deceptive about their fragrance then I don't trust anything they say...

There is so much confusion about what fragrances can be created naturally and unfortunately even some big suppliers perpetuate the deception :x I'm not saying I know everything - I'm still delving into the subject - but it's something I feel very strongly about hence the rant.:wink:
 
WSP has bitter almond blend $12 for 2 oz. Benzoin resin can be used in place of vanilla and sarsaparilla could be used for rootbeer. I completely understand the frustration with improperly labeled soaps, especially when they claim to be all natural.

You need to remember though, there are a lot of different ways to get a EO to smell like something else. The bitter almond from WSP is made with Cinnamomum cassia leaf oil but they do something to it so it smells like almond, technically its not a EO since it also has almond oil in it.
Its also possible she uses blend of EO's to recreate a sandalwood like scent. Just because its called sandalwood and has EO in it, doesn't mean its made with sandalwood EO.
 
WSP has bitter almond blend $12 for 2 oz. Benzoin resin can be used in place of vanilla and sarsaparilla could be used for rootbeer. I completely understand the frustration with improperly labeled soaps, especially when they claim to be all natural.

You need to remember though, there are a lot of different ways to get a EO to smell like something else. The bitter almond from WSP is made with Cinnamomum cassia leaf oil but they do something to it so it smells like almond, technically its not a EO since it also has almond oil in it.
Its also possible she uses blend of EO's to recreate a sandalwood like scent. Just because its called sandalwood and has EO in it, doesn't mean its made with sandalwood EO.

I know there is a sarsaparilla Co2 extract but at over $30 per oz it's not likely they are using that! I started out creating natural perfumes so I know a fair bit about what can be achieved by blending EOs. I spent a long time trying to create a really nice vanilla using EOs - including benzoin, balsam peru and vanilla Co2 - but it just wasn't that great and this is the point at which I started using some FOs in my perfumes. Same with the Sandalwood (which has a very distinctive scent that I do not believe can be replicated with other EOs).

It's nice of you to give this company the benefit of the doubt :cool: but I am sticking to my guns that it is extremely unlikely these scents are derived naturally.
 
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I don't see anything wrong with those soaps. All the ingredients are listed, just because each type of EO used isn't included doesn't make it a lie. As far as the sweet mint goes, its probably just a blend of sweeter mint EO's. Nothing about about it makes me think of a sugar smell.
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As you say, just because each type of EO used isn't included doesn't make it a lie, but it does put it in violation of labeling regulations.

I also don't see any difference in listing EO blend then others who just list fragrance. Maybe they don't want to share the blends they are using so people can't try and copy it or maybe they are like 10 different EO's and it would be silly to list them all.

The natural almond scent could simply be a almond EO, it does exist. I know many companies are shady about the scents they use but you guys are starting to rip on someone just because you don't like their labels?

It's really not a question of ripping on someone, it's a question of a violation of the regulations. If you make soap and decide to sell to the public, the regulations are VERY specific. I'm going to quote from Marie Gale's book "Soap and Cosmetic Labeling".....I'm thinking that a proprietary blend of EOs would fall under "trade secrets" and this is what her book has to say about that...
"A trade secret ingredient or formula doesn't have to be listed on the ingredients listing: instead you can say "and other ingredients". However, in order to exempt listing an ingredient you must first get approval from the FDA. There is a very specific procedure for requesting exemption of an ingredient identity from public disclosure. The details are listed on the FDA website and available through local FDA offices. If you omit an ingredient as a trade secret without having prior approval from the FDA then the product is misbranded and in violation of labeling regulations."

Because they don't have anything listed as "and other ingredients", I would guess that they haven't gone through that process. Also, any person can be allergic to any ingredient. It's never "silly" to list all of the ingredients. If someone buys your soap, and it contains an ingredient that they are allergic to, and they have a reaction, and that ingredient was not listed on the label....you'd better make sure you have good insurance.

Actually I love their labels and I think their soaps look great. If you mean their ingredients label, it's not ripping just some criticism, but I think that's only natural if you make soap too. Most list water because there is still some in the soap. It's just marketing, customers see water and think the product is watered down, and if they see fragrance they think it's chemical synthetics, and if they see sodium hydroxide they think it will burn their skin off. Truth is we have no idea if it's legit or not, it's just all speculation. I've seen the soaps in person and smelled them, they smell good and look good. Im not sure however, how they are mass producing but saying they only make soaps in small batches. The scents are very strong so either they are using a ton of eo and spending a fortune or they have a little help from fragrance oils, and there are natural fragrance oils. Who really knows, right? Nothing wrong with it, you just have to wonder why things are not listed.
I have a soap from shea moisture which i really really love, they also say eo blend but omg i've never once smelled eo like that and i'm pretty good at pegging them, plus it's super strong. they also say african black soap base but dont list the ingredients of the base.

We don't have a choice as to whether we list water or fragrance or sodium hydroxide. If you list ingredients, then every ingredient must be on the label. You don't get to pick and choose which to include. You can either list them as what goes into the pot...."Ingredients: Water, palm oil, coconut oil, sodium hydroxide, olive oil, fragrance, mica."

Or you can list the ingredients as they come out of the pot. Again quoting from Marie Gale's book,

"Soap is the result of the reaction between oil and lye, a process called "saponification". In casual conversation one can say that soap is "saponified oils", or to be even more detailed, a particular soap might be the "saponified oils of palm and olive" or "saponified palm and olive oils." These statements are correct, but it is not correct terminology for an ingredient list. "Saponified _____ oil" or "Saponified oil of _____ " is not listed as an ingredient in any version of the Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary. The Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary lists specific terms to describe the soap-result of saponification of a particular oil and sodium or potassium hydroxide. Examples: sodium palm kernelate, sodium cocoate, potassium olivate"

So there are variations in the way that you can choose to list your ingredients, but you have to choose one of the accepted ways. Just because a lot of people choose to skirt the rules, doesn't make them correct. And if you're selling to the public, well, we all know how sue happy people are these days. Yes, the regulations are incredibly specific, but once you get it down, it's really not that difficult, and then you can relax. If you have any questions, Marie Gale's book, "Soap & Cosmetic Labeling - How to Follow the Rules and Regs Explained in Plain English" spells it all out for you in great detail. Sorry this was so long, but there seem to be a lot of misconceptions about correct labeling practices.
 
WSP has bitter almond blend $12 for 2 oz. Benzoin resin can be used in place of vanilla and sarsaparilla could be used for rootbeer. I completely understand the frustration with improperly labeled soaps, especially when they claim to be all natural.

You need to remember though, there are a lot of different ways to get a EO to smell like something else. The bitter almond from WSP is made with Cinnamomum cassia leaf oil but they do something to it so it smells like almond, technically its not a EO since it also has almond oil in it.
Its also possible she uses blend of EO's to recreate a sandalwood like scent. Just because its called sandalwood and has EO in it, doesn't mean its made with sandalwood EO.

She doesn't have benzoin listed as an ingredient and I don't think it's considered a fragrance, she doesn't have any clays or anything listed that would help her eo's last longer.
 
The company is selling soap - they don't even have to list any of the ingredients. But they do, however, the FDA labeling rules do not apply and one has much more freedom in ingredient labeling for "Soap" and you don't even have to include them all. While some of you may not like it and may think it is sneaky or deceptive, she is doing nothing wrong.

http://blog.mariegale.com/ingredient-labels-soap/

Specifically:
"Ingredient List When It’s Not Required
Sometimes (often, actually) a soapmaker has a true soap for which no cosmetic claims have been made, but still wants to tell their customers what is in the soap. Since it’s not a cosmetic, the FDA regulations don’t apply, so there is considerably more freedom in what you say. In this case, you could use “saponified oils of ___”. The ingredients don’t necessarily have to be in descending order of predominance – they don’t even have to all be included."

So let's stop judging a successful soapmaker and be happy they are successful in creating and selling their product.
 
I was under that impression as well but books and other soapers are saying thst if you list any ingredients you must list them all in descending order and use INCI names. I'm very confused now about how one must label their soaps. I guess it can be any way you want it to be. But what if someone has an allergy? Ok... well, I'm not sure anymore.
 
I also do not have an issue with the way the soaps ingredients are labeled on these soaps. There are no cosmetic/medical claims on the soaps or website and I think that is a bigger issue than leaving out water or not listing the specific EO. And how many Walmart stores are these soaps in because I have not seen them in Ohio....

Soap is not regulated by the FDA as long as it stays in the boundaries of just being soap. Soap is regulated by the CPSC and they don't require a label of ingredients, just that the packaging says it is soap, net weight of the soap, and name and address of the maker. As Marie says in the blog, if you label you can either do what goes in (which I do) or what the end result is. I prefer to label with that goes in because customers easily know olive oil over the INCI name or saponified olivate.
 
That's cool, I can leave out whatever I don't want to add and I can use whatever name (common, INCI or Latin) I want for any ingredients, if I even choose to list them, and I also don't have to list them in any order. Sounds easy enough :)
 

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