I usually add sodium citrate or EDTA to my soaps, and the majority of them are made with lard which has BHT added. Even though I have softened water, not everyone that I give soap to does so I use it as a chelator.
Here is a link to some articles written by SMF member DeeAnna. I gave you the link to the page because there is a lot of good information to be found there. Scroll down to the chelator and antioxidant sections for answers to your specific questions.
As I mentioned earlier, the reason EDTA, BHT, and Sodium Citrate aren't found in homemade soap recipes is because most soapers don't use those chemicals in soap, with the exception of SMF where some members add SC as a chelator, as Effy G mentioned, to reduce soap scum from the tub and shower. It really isn't necessary to produce fine soap.Would someone know much is the recommend measurement of both chemicals to be effective? And how about EDTA? Which is more effective between the two? EDTA or BHT + Sodium Citrate? And how much EDTA is recommend usage?
Exactly!As I mentioned earlier, the reason EDTA, BHT, and Sodium Citrate aren't found in homemade soap recipes is because most soapers don't use those chemicals in soap, with the exception of SMF where some members add SC as a chelator, as Effy G mentioned, to reduce soap scum from the tub and shower. It really isn't necessary to produce fine soap.
If you go to the Beginners Forum and check out the links to recipes from various reliable sources, or even a random search of YouTube videos, like Soapmaking 101 and others, you won't find them. To avoid confusion, you might want to do a little more research -- from a variety of sources -- before getting on the Keven Dunn bandwagon, especially if that's the only book on soapmaking you've read.
Personally, I take Kevin Dunn's suggestions with a grain of salt. But that's just me... I'm not a fan, mainly because of situations like this where Newbies become confused about "preservatives" in soap, which isn't necessary at all, and using chemicals in soap which is Kevin's area of expertise, i.e., chemistry vs soapmaking.
HTH and good luck!
..... and using chemicals in soap which is Kevin's area of expertise, i.e., chemistry vs soapmaking.
When I was first making this decision I didn't want to have to make lye-adjustments that must be made with Sodium Citrate and wasn't convinced I wanted to use BHT.
You don't have to adjust the lye when using sodium citrate. You do have to adjust when using citric acid.
Your point is well made, Irish, but cooking, as I understand it, is also chemistry. And I'm just one of those people who never felt the need to know much about the chemistry of cooking or soapmaking and can still make a fine bar of soap, or a perfect soufflé.At it's heart, soapmaking is chemistry. Also, do not forget that lye is a chemical.
Most importantly, they never made soapers who weren't as well versed in the chemistry end of soapmaking feel bad.
OT (Off Topic) That reminded me of an easy appetizer we like to make that contains citric acid. So yummy and so easy to make! I just posted it in the recipe Forum. Here's a link:The cooking is a good analogy. I imagine if someone said that they but citric acid in to something, no one would be up in arms over chemical additives.
And yet we didn't return to the regular program, as you didn't make any comment on the points I raised above.OT (Off Topic) That reminded me of an easy appetizer we like to make that contains citric acid. So yummy and so easy to make! I just posted it in the recipe Forum. Here's a link:
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/sweet-sour-meatballs.70604/
We now return to our regularly scheduled programming.
When do you add sodium acetate?Soap is after all just salts made from various oils. Sodium X.
I use lard being a lardinator - and the lard I use has BHT in it. I also use Sodium Citrate @ 2%: oil weight and Sodium Acetate @ 2%: oil weight for most of my soap.
SC does soften the finished product and the reacted vinegar ( sodium acetate) hardens it back up for a longer lasting bar of soap. Since I have been using the combination along with a reasonably low superfat I have had no DOS in a couple of years.
Some of my oils *may* be past their "best by" date too.
So to address the original question - With proper chemistry in the kitchen or where ever you make your soap you can make a long storing and lasting soap with shorter shelf life oils. As long as the oils are saponified correctly.
Your mileage may vary.
Enter your email address to join: