Mildreds.naturals
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2013
- Messages
- 72
- Reaction score
- 24
Dishwashing liquid
- Thread starter craziedde
- Start date
Help Support Soapmaking Forum:
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2007
- Messages
- 17,998
- Reaction score
- 8,493
You can buy most of these chemicals at The Herbarie, Ingredients to Die For, The Personal Formulator, The Chemistry Store, Save On Citric or Essential Wholesale.
Mildreds.naturals
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2013
- Messages
- 72
- Reaction score
- 24
I"ve already found a couple of these you mentioned! thanks for all this info!
I was very disappointed in coconut oil soaps...
I made a few batches thinking I'm doing something wrong.
But the fact of the matter is that. Its coming out
1. too harsh on the skin
2. does not work on fat that good ( surprise to me why does it work on my skin so damaging if its not working on fat )
3. It has strange feeling to it very hard to wash it off your hands it sticks to your skin almost like an oil does... strange.
Anyway.. as an opposite I was quiet surprise how much better shea butter for example... hmm..
And about d-lemonane I did some mixing does not work that well ether at list for dishwashing plus does not mix that good with soaps either..
So all and all I'm still on my search jerney...
I make a 70% lard or soybean, 30% coconut oil LS that I use on dishes. I make it lye heavy and then neutralize with 33% borax solution. I find that the coconut adds the initial bubble explosion I am looking for with dish soap, and the other "filler" oils keep a good stable lather going. It's cheap to make and works quite well in soft water, but I wouldn't recommend it for really hard water.
Interesting... I don't have access to cheap lard. But soybean oil is fairly priced. I might try soybean oil.
You mentioned borax? It does neutralize lye??? Also curious how well does it play with soaps?? Does it mix well or it stay powdery and kills all bubbles?
I would imagine it does add certain toughness to the soap to fight grease?
It doesn't, as I've explained in at least a couple places. This is a rumor that's gotten around a lot, but makes no sense.
Actually...I think that some of the boric acid is released in the hot alkaline solution. I get a mild tongue tingle when I test non-neutralized liquid soap. That does not happen with my soap with added borax.
Another reason why I think along these lines...a little too much borax will cloud the best cooked paste. A sign of a little excess oil in liquid soap.
Sent from my SGH-T679 using Soap Making mobile app
Another reason why I think along these lines...a little too much borax will cloud the best cooked paste. A sign of a little excess oil in liquid soap.
Sent from my SGH-T679 using Soap Making mobile app
I use the coconut to fight grease....rather than add any extra harsher chemicals...if have hard water you can soften it with a bit of borax or washing soda before you add your soap...be warned you may get dishpan hands if you overdo it.
Sent from my SGH-T679 using Soap Making mobile app
Actually, what Mike said is correct, Robert. Borax will neutralize alkali in soap effectively enough that the soap will decompose into free fatty acids. I won't debate the chemistry with you, but I will offer a quote from an industrial soapmaker over a century ago for you to mull over:
"...Another chemical commonly added to soap is Borax. In view of its alkaline reaction to litmus, turning red litmus blue, this salt is no doubt generally regarded as alkaline, and, as such, without action on soap. On the contrary, however, it is an acid salt containing an excess of boric acid over the soda present, hence when it is added to soap, fatty acids are necessarily liberated, causing the soap to quickly become rancid...." (pg 88 )
"...Boric acid in aqueous or glycerine solutions, and borax (biborate of soda) are sometimes used [to neutralize excess alkali in soap], but care is necessary in employing these substances, as any excess is liable to decompose the soap...." (pg 66)
W. H. Simmons, H. A. Appleton, The Handbook of Soap Manufacture, 1908.
"...Another chemical commonly added to soap is Borax. In view of its alkaline reaction to litmus, turning red litmus blue, this salt is no doubt generally regarded as alkaline, and, as such, without action on soap. On the contrary, however, it is an acid salt containing an excess of boric acid over the soda present, hence when it is added to soap, fatty acids are necessarily liberated, causing the soap to quickly become rancid...." (pg 88 )
"...Boric acid in aqueous or glycerine solutions, and borax (biborate of soda) are sometimes used [to neutralize excess alkali in soap], but care is necessary in employing these substances, as any excess is liable to decompose the soap...." (pg 66)
W. H. Simmons, H. A. Appleton, The Handbook of Soap Manufacture, 1908.
whitetiger_0603
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2013
- Messages
- 70
- Reaction score
- 14
I'll take my home made laundry soap and mix it with my home made liquid Castile soap. Works great that way. I don't worry about bubbles as that's not what cleans my dishes, but the soapy itself.
Interesting thought on borax.
And best way to proof or disproof would be an experiment.
I will be mixing borax ones I find or buy it ( remember I had it somewhere )
Question: Do you hand-wash with borax? Or that was your mashinewash solution?
Because I mainly hand-wash.
And best way to proof or disproof would be an experiment.
I will be mixing borax ones I find or buy it ( remember I had it somewhere )
Question: Do you hand-wash with borax? Or that was your mashinewash solution?
Because I mainly hand-wash.
Hand wash only...this is not suitable for an automatic dishwasher....you would have a suds overflow, film, or both.
Personally, I like the tried and true borax neutralising b/c it is far less likely to cloud the soap.
Sent from my SGH-T679 using Soap Making mobile app
Similar threads
