CP Veg-based soap won't melt during handmilling

[mhmcpherson]

Hello,
I am attempting my first batch of cold processed soap. I used a vegetable oil based recipe to make the base soap, and it seemed to work ok. I allowed it to dry for about a week, then I grated it and heated it with water (12 oz grated soap to 9 oz water) on the stovetop. It began to melt, but then it seemed to get stuck. It turned into a thick paste and refused to liquify. I waited for over an hour and nothing happened. My soapmaking book said that veggie based soaps might turn into a thick paste, but it didn't indicate what to do if it didn't liquify after this phase. I have put in a lot of effort and money into making this soap, and I'm hoping that my entire batch of base soap can be salvaged...any ideas?

 

[soapbuddy]

You have too much water in there. For 12 ozs. of soap that's one week old, I would have used 1 TBS of water at most. Rebatched soap will never be as fluid again. You don't need to rebatch CP soap to get good soap.

 

[mhmcpherson]

I was re-batching because I wanted to add goodies to my basic soap--following the instructions of the book I have "The Complete Soapmaker". Is this possible with my now-pasty soap, or is it pretty hopeless at this point because there is too much water? What general ratio of water to grated soap do you recommend for the next time I try this?
Thanks!

 

[soapbuddy]

You can add your goodies as you make the soap, or make a crockpot soap and add your goodies right after it's finished cooking.
If you don't want to trash your 12 oz. batch, put it somewhere for now and forget about it for a while. It's going to take a long time for all that extra water to evaporate.

 

[DottieF.]

If that book is by Norma Coney it is utter crap. Throw it out and get a real soapmaking book. I'd recommend The Everything Soapmaking Book by Alica Grosso. You don't need to rebatch (handmill) to add things to your soap. Keep the batch you've already made just the way it is (if you have any left that you haven't grated up). Cut it into bars and let it cure. (The stuff you've added water to will take forever to harden up.) If you want to add a variety of things to your soap make small batches (2 or 3 pound batches) and put in your additives at trace. Or, you can make a larger batch, split it at thin trace and add different scents/additives to each. Anything is better than rebatching/handmilling. Most knowledgeable soapmakers only do it as a last resort. You'll get much better soap without all the extra work. Dottie

 

[mhmcpherson]

Yeah that is the book that I've been using. I was lured by the pretty pictures!! How disappointing. In the future I will add ingredients at trace. For now, since I don't really want a ton of plain soap, I would like to try re-batching the rest of my soap and putting in additives. Can I do this and just not add water? Just remelt small quantities over low heat? Thanks!

 

[DottieF.]

Sure, you can still rebatch it. It's young soap so it shouldn't be too difficult. I'd use a crock pot or double boiler (low heat) and just add a little water. If you start with a small amount, you can add more water if necessary.

Dottie

 

[dubnica]

For me- crock pot does not work for rebatching that good. I was doing rebatching just a few weeks ago and I did it over direct heat in a smaller stainless pot.
Just have your heat on low and stir constantly. My shreds were month or more old, so I added 1T of coconut milk and also 2T of Sodium Lactate (4-5 shreded bars) to make it smoother. I also added some fragrance, color and grounded chamomile or oatmeal and everything came out super good. It was quick and easy. I made few batches within and hour.

I just brought all of the rebatched soap to my work, put sign "FREE" on the box and they were gone within an hour.

Good luck to you.