Cp hard bar to cp liquid soap

[Zany_in_CO]

*****Transferred from another thread to start a New Topic.*****

NOTE: This new thread is about converting Candice's CP Shampoo Bar for Pets to Liquid Soap, as requested by a customer. All the cautions in the old thread about using lye-based shampoo for dogs should be kept in mind and better suited to a separate Topic for a New Thread -- maybe someone could copy that from the old thread as well. :???: Having said that, please feel free to chime in as always. TIA

I need a recipe for shampoo/liquid soap that is more on the natural side, and my client wants to put neem oil in it. Is this possible with the liquid style? I haven't found any info on neem oil in liquid soap recipes.

Post your recipe for suggestions for LS. I've never used neem in LS. but I'm guessing it would be possible at 1%. Not sure. I would want to know what purpose it serves?

Neem oil is good at repelling pests and insects, and is good for skin and hair, thats why i use it in the pet shampoo bars.

Got it. Thanks, Candice. Perhaps someone with experience using Neem in LS will advise how much to use to be effective. Otherwise, I see no harm in using the % in your hard bar formula.

My recipe for this bar soap is as follows at 7% superfat

10.50 oz-76 degree organic coconut oil
10.50 oz- cold pressed organic olive oil
8.40 oz cold pressed grapeseed oil
5.04 oz neem oil
4.20 oz raw organic shea butter
3.36 oz castor oil
1.25 oz lemongrass essential oil
5.65 oz sodium hydroxide
13.86 oz distilled water
4 tsp diatomaceous earth
2 tsp kaolin clay

Thanks for posting this. It's very helpful. It also looks to be an awesome shampoo bar!

So first I converted your formula to %'s to make it easier to reconfiigure:

25% coconut oil
25% olive oil
20% grapeseed oil
12% neem oil
10% shea butter
8% castor oil

The clays are eliminated cuz they can cause clogging. The lemongrass EO is optional, but it doesn't get added until after the process.

IMO and IME the easiest way to help CP soapmakers to ease into making LS successfully is to learn to make LS the cold process way, just as you would hard bars, i.e., no crockpot needed and that takes a LOT of guess work out of how long to cook and judging when the base is fully saponified and ready for dilution.

I just posted "Cold Process LS for Beginners" and "What to Expect from Various Oils in LS" -- in separate threads. Please read those posts before moving on.

Okay, to save time, we'll use "Cold Process LS for Beginners" as a guide to formulate the LS by using SoapCalc to resize the batch to 16 ounces and to determine the amount of KOH and water to use:

4 oz coconut oil 25%
4 oz olive oil 25%
3.2 oz grapeseed oil 20%
2 oz neem oil 12% (rounded)
1.6 oz shea butter 10%
1.25 oz castor oil 8% (rounded)
16 oz. TOTAL

2.3 oz KOH (0% SF)
4.6 oz Water (2X KOH)

So, there ya go! Put it together following the guidelines in the CP LS post. Once you get to full trace, stop there. Cover and forget about it for two weeks.

 

[cmzaha]

I have tried 10% neem in liquid soap and ended up tossing it. The neem was way to strong, and I like neem in soap. I use it at 20% in bar soap and it smells fine. I would keep the neem at 5% in LS

 

[Zany_in_CO]

I have tried 10% neem in liquid soap and ended up tossing it. The neem was way to strong, and I like neem in soap. I use it at 20% in bar soap and it smells fine. I would keep the neem at 5% in LS

Great! Good to know! Thank you, Carolyn! (HUG)

 

[Arimara]

Why wait 2 weeks?

 

[Zany_in_CO]

Why wait 2 weeks?

I can't predict how the neem oil and shea butter will behave at this point. I have no experience with those two ingredients. So, I've found that's the optimum time it takes for any problems to show up -- a film or whatever floating on top -- sediment settling on the bottom. Allowing the soap to do it's thing before moving on to the next step just makes it easier (for me) to correct. Once we have clear soap, I 'spect we'll be adding some goodies.

 

[Susie]

*****Transferred from another thread to start a New Topic.*****

I have to wonder if you would walk into a stranger's house and re-arrange their furniture.

 

[Dahila]

I have to wonder if you would walk into a stranger's house and re-arrange their furniture.

This is exactly my reaction. Thanks Susie

 

[Zany_in_CO]

Correction:

Why wait 2 weeks?

Oopsie... this response pertains to the Sequester Phase.

I can't predict how the neem oil and shea butter will behave at this point. I have no experience with those two ingredients. So, I've found that's the optimum time it takes for any problems to show up -- a film or whatever floating on top -- sediment settling on the bottom. Allowing the soap to do it's thing before moving on to the next step just makes it easier (for me) to correct. Once we have clear soap, I 'spect we'll be adding some goodies.

Arimara's question pertains to making the soap. When making COLD PROCESS LIQUID SOAP, you bring the batch to trace and stop there. Then it takes about 2 weeks (more or less in my experience) for the soap to be fully saponified, tests neutral, and is ready for dilution.

 

[Susie]

Correction:

Oopsie... this response pertains to the Sequester Phase.

Arimara's question pertains to making the soap. When making COLD PROCESS LIQUID SOAP, you bring the batch to trace and stop there. Then it takes about 2 weeks (more or less in my experience) for the soap to be fully saponified, tests neutral, and is ready for dilution.

There is no need to get the soap to trace. Just get it emulsified, put a lid on it, and walk away. Check it every half hour or so and when you see gel, zap test and dilute. Generally takes me under an hour from weighing out the first ingredient to start of dilution. No need for "sequestering" or any other delay. If it gelled (by itself, no need for heat or anything else), and there is no zap on the zap test, it is fully saponified and ready for dilution and use.

 

[Nanette]

So much to learn, so little time...in the hare and tortoise race I am definitely the tortoise......................

 

[Dahila]

There is no need to get the soap to trace. Just get it emulsified, put a lid on it, and walk away. Check it every half hour or so and when you see gel, zap test and dilute. Generally takes me under an hour from weighing out the first ingredient to start of dilution. No need for "sequestering" or any other delay. If it gelled (by itself, no need for heat or anything else), and there is no zap on the zap test, it is fully saponified and ready for dilution and use.

thanks Susie , this is what I am trying to tell Zany but she does not listen at all Oh boy

 

[Zany_in_CO]

thanks Susie , this is what I am trying to tell Zany but she does not listen at all Oh boy

LOL Dahila, I DO listen, but I don't always agree. I've said it before and I'll say it again, there are about as many different ways to make LS as there are LS'ers. In this particular case, I'm addressing Cold Process LS not Crockpot LS, which is what I think you and Susie are speaking to. Please correct me if I'm wrong. It is easy to get the two confused. You may have missed this -- Quote from Post #1

IMO and IME the easiest way to help CP soapmakers to ease into making LS successfully is to learn to make LS the cold process way, just as you would hard bars, i.e., no crockpot needed

About the 2-week sequester -- IMO based on my experience, the 2-week sequester is important, especially as this recipe contains 12% neem and 10% shea butter. Whatever doesn't saponify during the process will settle out to the bottom or rise to the top. The sequester period provides the opportunity to correct these problems should they occur.

ETA:
COLD PROCESS LS FOR BEGINNERS
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/cold-process-ls-for-beginners.62863/

WHAT TO EXPECT FROM VARIOUS OILS IN LS
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/what-to-expect-from-various-oils-in-ls.62864/

 

[Zany_in_CO]

There is no need to get the soap to trace. Just get it emulsified, put a lid on it, and walk away. Check it every half hour or so and when you see gel, zap test and dilute. Generally takes me under an hour from weighing out the first ingredient to start of dilution. No need for "sequestering" or any other delay. If it gelled (by itself, no need for heat or anything else), and there is no zap on the zap test, it is fully saponified and ready for dilution and use. HTH people who don't know better!

@Susie If it isn't too much trouble, I think it would be even more helpful if you would add the link to Irish Lass's excellent LS tutorial which describes your method in detail. TIA

 

[Zany_in_CO]

So much to learn, so little time...in the hare and tortoise race I am definitely the tortoise......................

Well, do not despair, little tortoise, when you're ready, here's a link to one of the best online sources to learn how to make liquid soap:
http://alaiynab.blogspot.com/2014/07/basic-beginner-liquid-soap-and.html

 

[Donna Hicks]

Well, do not despair, little tortoise, when you're ready, here's a link to one of the best online sources to learn how to make liquid soap:
http://alaiynab.blogspot.com/2014/07/basic-beginner-liquid-soap-and.html

Does this soap lather well?

 

[AliOop]

Does this soap lather well?

FYI, Zany is no longer a member of this forum, so she is not able to respond to your question. It's good to check the dates of the last post on the thread, and when the member was last on the forum. If it's more than a year old (or so), it's probably best to start a new thread to ask your question. That will be seen by more people and have more chance of being answered.

Also, if you haven't done so already, hop over to the introduction thread and tell us a bit about yourself, including your level of soaping knowledge. That will help us know how to help you when you ask questions.

 

[DeeAnna]

Does this soap lather well?

I agree with Ali's suggestions to start a new thread and also to introduce yourself.

Regarding the coconut-olive-castor liquid recipe from Alaiyna B, yes, it lathers. It's a classic, reliable recipe that's popular with liquid soap makers.

The recipe from Carrie Peterson and Irish Lass has slightly different proportions for the fats, but otherwise is similar: https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/soaping-101-liquid-soapmaking-video.46114/#post-428988

Whether either of these recipes will lather well enough to suit you is hard to say, however, because that answer depends on your personal preference and also how the liquid soap is diluted and used.