Cooking the LS

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DaisySoap

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Hello everyone,
Hope everybody is safe and well.

I made LS last night but since it was sooo late, I stopped cooking it and hat it sit overnight so I can continue cooking it today, but I remembered I had read somewhere that I can leave the LS over night instead of cooking it. Is this true? Do I have to cook the soap now or is the saponification process done?
Thanks
 
Just because you stop cooking a soap paste doesn't mean it stops saponifying, so your instinct is correct about this. If we don't cook the soap when making NaOH soap with a cold process method, it stands to reason a cold process method should work for KOH soap too.

Given my past experience with cold process KOH soap, I'd say your paste is probably quite fine today given an overnight to finish up with the saponification. A cautious zap test is the proof of the pudding, however.
 
Thanks for the information.
So do I have to wait for it to cure now or is it good to use? I'm not familiar with cold process liquid soap making.
Also, when should I do the neutralizing?

Just because you stop cooking a soap paste doesn't mean it stops saponifying, so your instinct is correct about this. If we don't cook the soap when making NaOH soap with a cold process method, it stands to reason a cold process method should work for KOH soap too.

Given my past experience with cold process KOH soap, I'd say your paste is probably quite fine today given an overnight to finish up with the saponification. A cautious zap test is the proof of the pudding, however.
 
Oh -- so your recipe requires neutralization? Maybe you should post the recipe, all ingredients in weights, please, so we can double check on that point.

I make KOH soap with a small superfat so no neutralization is required, and I was operating on the assumption you were too. If your soap requires neutralization, you'd do that per your recipe. Just because it finished saponifying at room temp doesn't really change anything else.

Liquid soap doesn't need a long cure time as NaOH bar soap does, but a week or two of "sequestering" can be helpful to let solid impurities either float to the surface or sink. You can remove the impurities and that will help the soap be more transparent. Sometimes the texture of the soap will change a little during that time, as well, although not always.

You'd sequester the soap after it is neutralized, if neutralization is needed, and is diluted. I don't always dilute all of the paste at one time -- I just dilute as I need more pourable soap.
 
I made LS last night but since it was sooo late, I stopped cooking it and hat it sit overnight so I can continue cooking it today, but I remembered I had read somewhere that I can leave the LS over night instead of cooking it. Is this true?
Yes.
So do I have to wait for it to cure now or is it good to use?
As long as it tests done, i.e., fully saponified, you're ready to dilute the soap. As DeeAnna advised, after dilution, allow the soap to sequester for 2 full weeks to allow it to do its thing. Any problems that occur during that time are easier to diagnose and remedy.
I'm not familiar with cold process liquid soap making.
You have essentially done just that by stopping the cook and leaving it alone overnight. Smart move. Cold Process LS is bringing the soap to hard trace and stopping there to finish saponification on its own without hot processing it. It actually causes fewer problems for first-timers. A few soapers I know let it set covered for two weeks to ensure full saponification. It varies depending on oils and other factors.
Also, when should I do the neutralizing?
I use 20% citric acid solution. You can add it after it's diluted and while it's still warm; or warm it up and add the neutralizer after sequester. As DeeAnna mentioned, if you soap with 3% SF, no neutralizer is needed. A lot of soapers like and use that tip. I tried it and prefer to soap at 0% SF. I'm a little OCD about clarity. 😄
 
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I attached the recipe. Only I used half of everything. And it was a no paste method.
I did the phenolphthalein test and it turns dark pink. I attached the color on the paper towel.
 

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Whoopsie! I'm Old School, i.e., I make the paste using only KOH (No NaOH); once saponified (phenolphthalein tests clear), then I dilute. I've never made the no-paste method. As I understand it, the dilution water is added to the paste and both are cooked together.

Phenolphthalein is the way I test to be sure my paste is saponified before dilution. The bright fuscia color you got means there is excess lye. In this case, you may need to cook the soap longer to get to your target of 40% soap solution = one half of 113.1 oz or 3206 grams. Then test again. It should be clear. But I'm just guessing. Like I said. I've never made LS this way.

So, my first question is how much does your batch weigh?
Second question: Are there instructions for neutralizing?
Third question: What Super Fat % did you use?

ETA: I apologize. I should have asked to see the recipe before giving advice. There are so many different ways of making LS it isn't helpful to advise without knowing this simple detail. :rolleyes:
 
As you said it is very similar. You dilute the paste before cooking and cook them together. Also as for my understanding the no paste uses glycerin and potassium carbonate also it needs both Naoh and Koh. But I'm a newbie so this might not be right. At least in the book I'm reading this is the case.
For neutralizing the book explains couples of method including the static acid and citric acid method and I should choose. So I guess this would be the next question, which method should I choose?
The batch weigh is har to measure now because it is in the crockpot and I dont know the pot's weight.
I'm not sure about the superfat either since I followed the recipe in the book.
Sorry I dont have clear answer to your questions.
And I appreciate your time and help. You're trying to help me and your information ware useful. 🌷
 

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And I appreciate your time and help. You're trying to help me and your information ware useful. 🌷
You're welcome, DaisySoap and thanks for getting back to me. At this point I suggest you do a search for "Jackie Thompson". On the top right of this page you see a spy glass. Tick on that to initiate a search. There are a few members who make LS using her method. There may be answers in those threads. The other option is to start a new thread Titled, "Jackie Thompson's No Paste Method" or something like that -- hopefully you'll get responses from someone more experienced with the method to help you. ;)

GOOD LUCK & HAPPY SOAPING!
 
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