Cocoa Butter Sticker Shock!!!

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OMG y'all! I'm just getting back to making stuff and I've been over here playing away making sample recipes of lip balm all willy nilly before I checked the cost of cocoa butter!!! Holy smokes! I'm glad I didn't buy a big batch of lip balm tubes! I don't even think I'm going to make anymore. It's so sad. Climate change is a bummer!!! Any sources for deodorized cocoa butter wafers in bulk? Everyone is out and/or it's super expensive!!!

Has anyone used PKO as a substitute for cocoa butter in lip balm?
 
I can't answer the cocoa butter question, but will say that I really like @DeeAnna's lip balm recipe shared here on SMF. It's my standard lip balm recipe now. IIRC is something like 34% HO sunflower, 34% jojoba oil, and 32% beeswax. It goes on smoothly but doesn't melt easily in warmer environments. I've also used fractionated coconut oil* in lieu of sunflower, and results were quite similar to the sunflower recipe.

*I buy this as MCT oil from Costco - best price I've found since there is no shipping fee.
 
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I can't answer the cocoa butter question, but will say that I really like @DeeAnna's lip balm recipe shared here on SMF. It's my standard lip balm recipe now. IIRC is something like 34% HO sunflower, 34% jojoba oil, and 32% beeswax. It goes on smoothly but doesn't melt easily in warmer environments. I've also used fractionated coconut oil* in lieu of sunflower, and results were quite similar to the sunflower recipe.

*I buy this as MCT oil from Costco - best price I've found since there is no shipping fee.
That's really helpful! I'll look up her recipe. I'm trying to reformulate my tallow lip balm. It used to be Two parts tallow, one part beeswax, one part cocoa butter. But I just can't with the cocoa butter!

It’s just terrible….
Has anyone found prices better than Soaper Choice here?
Nope. It's awful sad! That's not even with shipping!! Robyn French does a good break down of some alternatives in her Bath Fizz and Foam Facebook group. I'm thinking palm kernel oil is a good sub for some things. But I've actively avoided palm oils due to their environmentally destructive harvesting practices. I know there's supposed to be sustainable certified kind now, but I'm not sure I trust it.

I can't answer the cocoa butter question, but will say that I really like @DeeAnna's lip balm recipe shared here on SMF. It's my standard lip balm recipe now. IIRC is something like 34% HO sunflower, 34% jojoba oil, and 32% beeswax. It goes on smoothly but doesn't melt easily in warmer environments. I've also used fractionated coconut oil* in lieu of sunflower, and results were quite similar to the sunflower recipe.

*I buy this as MCT oil from Costco - best price I've found since there is no shipping fee.
What is IIRC?

I can't answer the cocoa butter question, but will say that I really like @DeeAnna's lip balm recipe shared here on SMF. It's my standard lip balm recipe now. IIRC is something like 34% HO sunflower, 34% jojoba oil, and 32% beeswax. It goes on smoothly but doesn't melt easily in warmer environments. I've also used fractionated coconut oil* in lieu of sunflower, and results were quite similar to the sunflower recipe.

*I buy this as MCT oil from Costco - best price I've found since there is no shipping fee.
I did a test with the blend I want to use using the ratios from that recipe and it just may work! I might even like it better!!! I'll make some up and do a "pocket test" next!
 
The cheapest I've seen for refined white cocoa butter is at 3CayG: 1 lb. for $20; 5 lbs. for $70; and 10 lbs. for $128. It's not wafers, unfortunately (I love wafers, and the little pastilles!). Who knows how long it will be in stock, though — as you said, seems like a lot of places are sold out.
 
I did a test with the blend I want to use using the ratios from that recipe and it just may work! I might even like it better!!! I'll make some up and do a "pocket test" next!
You have inspired me to try some tallow in mine now. I have so much of it on hand from friends who buy whole or half sides of beef and give me all the fat. So maybe 35% tallow, 35% jojoba or other soft oil, and 30% beeswax? Because the tallow is firmer than the sunflower oil that it would be replacing.

IIRC = if I recall correctly 😊
 
You have inspired me to try some tallow in mine now. I have so much of it on hand from friends who buy whole or half sides of beef and give me all the fat. So maybe 35% tallow, 35% jojoba or other soft oil, and 30% beeswax? Because the tallow is firmer than the sunflower oil that it would be replacing.

IIRC = if I recall correctly 😊
My whole skin care line is tallow based. It's been my secret mission for the last 10 years to normalize tallow in skin care. It really is the best for skin! I'm excited for you to try it. I did a small batch test of 25g tallow, 25g beeswax, and 20g jojoba (I ran out of jojoba). It's soft, but nice! I'll try it in a tube next. The caul fat around the organs is firmer and I prefer it for skin care, the subcutaneous fat softer and I like it best for soap.

The cheapest I've seen for refined white cocoa butter is at 3CayG: 1 lb. for $20; 5 lbs. for $70; and 10 lbs. for $128. It's not wafers, unfortunately (I love wafers, and the little pastilles!). Who knows how long it will be in stock, though — as you said, seems like a lot of places are sold out.
They're already out of stock!
 
My whole skin care line is tallow based. It's been my secret mission for the last 10 years to normalize tallow in skin care. It really is the best for skin! I'm excited for you to try it. I did a small batch test of 25g tallow, 25g beeswax, and 20g jojoba (I ran out of jojoba). It's soft, but nice! I'll try it in a tube next. The caul fat around the organs is firmer and I prefer it for skin care, the subcutaneous fat softer and I like it best for soap.
I love tallow in soap, lotions, and balms/salves! I don’t know why I didn’t think of it for lip balms, so thanks for sharing that.

When rendering the beef fat my friends give me, I do try to separate the organ fat for non-soap products; it definitely has less scent and is whiter (less yellow). Because it is stored in our freezer until ready to melt and make stuff, I hadn’t paid attention to or noticed the difference in firmness. Another great tip - thank you!
 
... I really like @DeeAnna's lip balm recipe shared here on SMF...

I've never used nut butters (shea, cocoa, etc.) in my lip balm, but have I sometimes gotten the impression that others think butters are required in a balm or salve. I've shared my no-butter balm recipe elsewhere, but here it is again:

Dee's Bees Lip Balm

Liquid oil #1 (high oleic sunflower is a good choice) ... 33.8%
Liquid oil #2 (jojoba is nice) ... 33.8%
Beeswax ... 31.5%

My essential oil blend (optional):
Sweet orange ... 0.5%
Red mandarin ... 0.3%
Rosemary verbenon ... 0.1%

Total ... 100%

All ingredients are measured by weight, not volume

Measure the beeswax and liquid fats into a small heat-proof container sitting in a warm water bath (bain marie). For this type of recipe, I often use a small glass canning jar to hold the fats and immerse it in a small saucepan of warm water that's as deep as possible. The deep pan of water warms the glass closer to the rim, so the balm remains more liquid as I pour it.

Warm the water in the bath to about 180F / 80C and let the beeswax melt, stirring occasionally. When fully melted and the mixture is clear, stir in the essential oil blend or other fragrance. Immediately pour into lip balm tubes or other containers. Let the balm cool undisturbed until the product is firm.

A 275 gram batch will fill about 50 regular-size (0.15 oz) lip balm tubes. A 90 gram batch will fill about 16 tubes.

This recipe as written passes my "pocket test" -- the balm in a regular lip balm tube doesn't melt in my pants pocket. It also passes the Iowa winter test -- the balm remains soft enough when it's cold to glide smoothly over sore chapped lips.

Your results may be different than mine, however, so plan to test and adjust the proportions to get the consistency you want. More wax (or less oil) will make the balm firmer and more melt resistant. Less wax (or more oil) will make the balm softer and more melty.

This recipe can be used on the face or other skin -- "Egyptian Magic" is one commercial product like this and another is Cindy Joseph's "Boom" sticks. To adapt this recipe to be more similar to the Boom and Egyptian Magic facial sticks, I'd replace the sunflower and jojoba with mildly-scented olive oil. If the beeswax is from a local beekeeper, the wax will naturally have propolis and pollen in it -- the lemon to butter yellow color is proof of that. If the beeswax is a nearly white product from a B&B supplier, it's most likely been filtered, deodorized, and bleached, so none of the propolis or pollen (or the wonderful scent) remains.

Boom sticks also have honey in them (not sure about the Egyptian Magic, speaking from memory.) You're on your own if you want to add water-soluble ingredients such as honey. Without an emulsifier, the honey may separate out unless you use only a tiny, tiny amount of honey. Also, adding a lip-safe preservative is mandatory if using honey, because honey will not function as a preservative when diluted. I want my balm simple to make and safe to use, so I never include water soluble ingredients.

Also see https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/boomsilk-moisturizer-dupe.77200
 
I've never used nut butters (shea, cocoa, etc.) in my lip balm, but have I sometimes gotten the impression that others think butters are required in a balm or salve. I've shared my no-butter balm recipe elsewhere, but here it is again:

Dee's Bees Lip Balm

Liquid oil #1 (high oleic sunflower is a good choice) ... 33.8%
Liquid oil #2 (jojoba is nice) ... 33.8%
Beeswax ... 31.5%

My essential oil blend (optional):
Sweet orange ... 0.5%
Red mandarin ... 0.3%
Rosemary verbenon ... 0.1%

Total ... 100%

All ingredients are measured by weight, not volume

Measure the beeswax and liquid fats into a small heat-proof container sitting in a warm water bath (bain marie). For this type of recipe, I often use a small glass canning jar to hold the fats and immerse it in a small saucepan of warm water that's as deep as possible. The deep pan of water warms the glass closer to the rim, so the balm remains more liquid as I pour it.

Warm the water in the bath to about 180F / 80C and let the beeswax melt, stirring occasionally. When fully melted and the mixture is clear, stir in the essential oil blend or other fragrance. Immediately pour into lip balm tubes or other containers. Let the balm cool undisturbed until the product is firm.

A 275 gram batch will fill about 50 regular-size (0.15 oz) lip balm tubes. A 90 gram batch will fill about 16 tubes.

This recipe as written passes my "pocket test" -- the balm in a regular lip balm tube doesn't melt in my pants pocket. It also passes the Iowa winter test -- the balm remains soft enough when it's cold to glide smoothly over sore chapped lips.

Your results may be different than mine, however, so plan to test and adjust the proportions to get the consistency you want. More wax (or less oil) will make the balm firmer and more melt resistant. Less wax (or more oil) will make the balm softer and more melty.

This recipe can be used on the face or other skin -- "Egyptian Magic" is one commercial product like this and another is Cindy Joseph's "Boom" sticks. To adapt this recipe to be more similar to the Boom and Egyptian Magic facial sticks, I'd replace the sunflower and jojoba with mildly-scented olive oil. If the beeswax is from a local beekeeper, the wax will naturally have propolis and pollen in it -- the lemon to butter yellow color is proof of that. If the beeswax is a nearly white product from a B&B supplier, it's most likely been filtered, deodorized, and bleached, so none of the propolis or pollen (or the wonderful scent) remains.

Boom sticks also have honey in them (not sure about the Egyptian Magic, speaking from memory.) You're on your own if you want to add water-soluble ingredients such as honey. Without an emulsifier, the honey may separate out unless you use only a tiny, tiny amount of honey. Also, adding a lip-safe preservative is mandatory if using honey, because honey will not function as a preservative when diluted. I want my balm simple to make and safe to use, so I never include water soluble ingredients.

Also see https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/boomsilk-moisturizer-dupe.77200
If I buy organic beeswax pellets from Amazon and they’re yellow colored, does that mean they still have propolis and pollen?
 
If I buy organic beeswax pellets from Amazon and they’re yellow colored, does that mean they still have propolis and pollen?
My understanding is that the white beeswax is bleached, and that the yellow is not. Still, the yellow pastilles purchased from vendors are almost translucent, leading me to believe that all (or at least most) of the propolis and pollen has been refined out. The beeswax from local beekeepers is not translucent at all, so my assumption was that more of the other components remain in that wax.
 
OMG!! I had no idea cocoa butter had gone up sooo much. I ordered 10lbs in January from SoaperChoice and paid just under $50. If I had to buy more right now, I wouldn't do it. Sheesh, that is CRAZY.
Guess I will increase the shea and beeswax in my recipe and cut out the cocoa butter.
 
You have inspired me to try some tallow in mine now. I have so much of it on hand from friends who buy whole or half sides of beef and give me all the fat. So maybe 35% tallow, 35% jojoba or other soft oil, and 30% beeswax? Because the tallow is firmer than the sunflower oil that it would be replacing.

IIRC = if I recall correctly 😊
I just made a lip balm using 34% tallow, 34% Cacay, 29% beeswax, 2% lanolin and 1% 2nd distill peppermint EO. My first impression is that it’s really nice! Hopefully it can pass the pocket test.
 
Sounds lovely, @Tammyfarms! I don't have cacay; is it similar in consistency to jojoba maybe?
I haven’t used much jojoba oil so I can’t compare the two. I started using Cacay last year in lotions, lotion bars and lip balms. I really like it. I am noticing the hand cream I made today is a bit shiny and that may be the Cacay. Here’s a link from New Directions. https://www.newdirectionsaromatics....cacay-nut-carrier-oil-unrefined-filtered.html.
Wish I could be more helpful but honestly I’m a bit like Mr Magoo bumping around trying to figure out bath and body stuff. 😂
 
I use Palm kernel oil in my lip balms. I did it to avoid butters because I didn't want to hassle with graininess. I don't make a huge number and like to give them away for Xmas and as freebies. They are definitely creamier and softer than cocoa butter balms so you will have to decide if they are for you. I like them and I have customers who love them.
 
I haven’t used much jojoba oil so I can’t compare the two. I started using Cacay last year in lotions, lotion bars and lip balms. I really like it. I am noticing the hand cream I made today is a bit shiny and that may be the Cacay. Here’s a link from New Directions. https://www.newdirectionsaromatics....cacay-nut-carrier-oil-unrefined-filtered.html.
Wish I could be more helpful but honestly I’m a bit like Mr Magoo bumping around trying to figure out bath and body stuff. 😂
I thought cacay was a typo and you meant cacao.
 

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