Check recipe? Concerned about DOS

[LBell123]

I'd really like to make some soap to gift for Christmas. I've read a lot on here and posted some questions, thank you for the help!

As I want to gift them and not just use them myself, I am very concerned about DOS. I won't have time to remake them if I get them wrong, so I'd really like to get it right the first time.

I will make sure I have air circulating when drying. I was thinking in my basement (in Canada) with a dehumidifier and running. I'll use distilled water. I won't use metal bowls or molds or spoons. My immersion blender is metal though, is that ok?

I just bought oils yesterday from a large and popular grocery store, so they should not be expired. I will check the dates.

What about adding citric acid and having a zero superfat? From what I read, that should help, right? Because there is no or very little fat left after saponification. Will the bar be too drying though?

I have attached the recipe I'm thinking of using. It is just a basic 3 oil with castor oil.

Or if DOS is too risky for my first batches, should I hot process? I think I read it is less likely with hot process. Is that right?

 

[dibbles]

First of all, I like that you spent some time learning to use a lye calculator! And it seems like you have done your research too. Just so you know, you can use stainless steel safely when making soap. I have only ever heard of one brand of stick blender that has aluminum (sorry, I can’t remember which one). A stick blender with stainless parts is fine, so no worries there.

Especially for your first batch, I would use a superfat. That will give you a little cushion in case of a weight measurement error. I use a 2% superfat, but I also disperse my colorants in oil (not taken from my batch oils) which adds a little to the superfat as well.

The amount of coconut oil in your recipe might be too drying. I would lower that to 20-25% and add the extra to the lard or olive oil, or split between the two. Even 25% can be drying for some people, but it is fine for me and mine. Citric acid can be used as a chelator, but it neutralizes some of the lye and you will need to adjust for that. Here is a link to @DeeAnna‘s article about how to do it. Citric acid, Citrus juice | Soapy Stuff If you haven’t already found her Soapy Stuff, it’s a very good source. I use sodium citrate, which does not require an adjustment to the lye. I would use citric acid if I used it for something else, like bath bombs.

The only other thing I would change is the water amount. Use the lye concentration option and set it for 33%. That is a good starting point. I’ve only done hot process a couple of times, so I’m not the person to give you advice about that. But I’ve never heard that DOS is less likely with HP. If you do decide to try HP, leave your water setting at the default. Honestly, if your oils are fresh and your bowls, spatulas, etc are clean you don’t have to be too worried about DOS. I’ve only had it happen a couple of times in 8 years of soap making.

Good luck with your first batch, wear your PPE and have fun! And let us know how it goes.

 

[AliOop]

Great advice, @dibbles!

I can add that there is nothing different about CP or HP when it comes to DOS. That is generally caused by using rancid oils; exposure to sunlight while curing; exposure to metal (other than stainless steel); or contamination (using tap water, for instance),

 

[LBell123]

Thank you both! Very helpful. I might try both hot and cold process, just to try, but good to know it doesn't have an effect on whether or not it will get the DOS.

So, the citric acid isn't really necessary? I don't really want to buy anything else if I don't need to.

I adjusted the coconut oil down. Does this new recipe look any better?

 

[AliOop]

The oils percentages look good, and your batch size is also good for a first soap. Well done!

As @dibbles recommended, you'd be better off to select "Lye Concentration" and set it to 33%. Your current setting is "Water as Percent of Oils" - which will be way too much water for a CP recipe. Using Lye Concentration for each recipe will make your processes and outcomes more consistent between different recipes and different batch sizes.

You don't have to use citric acid, but it is good to prevent DOS, limit soap scum (important with lard soaps!), and improve lathering. You must increase the lye if you add CA; use the link in Dibbles' post, above, to figure out the correct amount of CA and additional lye.

 

[cmzaha]

Thank you both! Very helpful. I might try both hot and cold process, just to try, but good to know it doesn't have an effect on whether or not it will get the DOS.

So, the citric acid isn't really necessary? I don't really want to buy anything else if I don't need to.

I adjusted the coconut oil down. Does this new recipe look any better?

No, citric acid is not really necessary, but it does act as a chelator which will help bind the extra minerals resulting in less soap scum and slowing DOS. My choice of chelator is Sodium Gluconate which is much easier to use than citric acid since you do not have to compensate for the extra acid, and I find it much more efficient and controlling soap scum. Actually, I still mix it with EDTA, but many no longer want to use EDTA so I would use Sodium Gluconate at the rate of 1% total batch weight, dissolved in a portion of your batch liquid. SG can be purchased on eBay.

All the above information is good information to follow

 

[Zany_in_CO]

I'm impressed too! Both of your formulas are well done! The first one (INS 166 vs. 160) will be a little too hard maybe and the second one (INS 149 vs. 160) will take a little longer to cure than the first one.

Have a look at the Basic Trinity of Oils starter formula for an ideal allocation of coconut, lard, olive and castor (TIP delete 5% from the olive oil to add it to the castor.)
TEMPS: 120°-135°F (recommended for formulas high in hard oils).
Cover and insulate with old towels or blanket to ensure gel.

Although others may disagree, from my 20-years experience, the Default settings on SoapCalc, i.e., 38% water to oils and 5% Super Fat (aka "Lye Discount") work well for first-timers.

I have no problem with using 33% Lye Concentration or 0% SF but would advise you to try the Default setting first, then decide if you want to adjust. You may not want to change it at all until after you get a feel for how to improve a basic recipe. NOTE: I'm one of the few SMF members who has never experienced DOS or soda ash. I do add antioxidants ROE and Vitamin E to prevent rancidity but that's optional, as is citric acid.

HTH and HAPPY SOAPING!