Charcoal soap

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Redtigersun

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Hi there, I am about to try using activated charcoal in my normal soap recipe. I have been reading other people's posts here about using charcoal and it's beginning to make me nervous!

My normal soap recipe involves roughly equal proportions of olive oil, lard and coconut oil (probably a bit more olive oil than coconut oil) and I use essential oils.

I have successfully used pink clay in my soap (and love it!) and also made soleseife soap with this recipe. I'd like to know everyone's tips like how much to use for the amount of oil, and gelling (or not) effect on the soap. etc. anything!!
 
I use about a 1/2-1 tsp PPO. Mine is pretty black when done. I gel all my soap. I mix my charcoal with a bit of oil from my batch and let it sit a bit. Then add it to my oils or if doing more than 1 color add it to my split batch.
 
Fine charcoal works best to colour soap - a large grind can be felt in soap, it needs to be fine enough to be like dust, then it will colour without being able to feel it in the soap. If you moisten it first with a little water, it tends to blend into the soap a little more easily than if it is dry (glycerin or oil or soap batter can also be used). I tend to judge it by eye, rather than by weight, as the colour will vary (slightly) according to the source material. If I want a darker colour, also add some dry powder to the soap batter. Too much will colour the lather - the bar in my avatar is just on the edge of colouring (it's still has white lather, but much more and it would be starting to look grey). If you do get grey lather, it doesn't seem to stain anything permanently. I use roughly the same amount as Shari (shunt) - up to about 1 teaspoon per 500g of oils.

Don't breathe any of the dust (wear a dust mask).
 
For a 5 lb batch I use about 2 tsp. Too much charcoal and you could get grey lather. I don't force gel. I make coconut milk or goat milk soaps and let them saponify naturally in a wood mold with a wood cover. No other covering just the lid.
 
For me to get a jet black soap I have to add a little black oxide to my charcoal, otherwise I have to use too much charcoal to get true deep jet black.

I gel all my soaps no matter what, and have never had any adverse affects, so I have no idea how not gelling would affect the soap.
 
Thanks for that. I haven't used oxides before and don't have any but it does sound like a good idea to mix it with the charcoal.

I did read something that when making milk soap with charcoal you shouldn't insulate it (with towels or heat pad) as this would scorch the milk sugars. From my understanding, you just leave it with no covering as Candybee mentions.
 
Thanks for that. I haven't used oxides before and don't have any but it does sound like a good idea to mix it with the charcoal.

I did read something that when making milk soap with charcoal you shouldn't insulate it (with towels or heat pad) as this would scorch the milk sugars. From my understanding, you just leave it with no covering as Candybee mentions.

Milk soaps tend to heat up a lot because of the sugars. Not sure scorching is the right word, once the batter is in the mold, but it certainly could overheat and volcano (whether using charcoal or not) if insulated too much. My milk soaps tend to gel on their own without any insulation, but I do try to make sure I don't get a partial gel, so I will throw a light towel over the mold. (The ambient temp in my lab on any given day is about 70°F so can be pretty chilly when it comes to soapmaking)
 
I soap at a 33% lye concentration and find that I have to insulate all my soaps to get gel. I put my wooden lid on then lay a towel over the top. I too gel all my soaps and I always use milk with the exception if I'm using aloe, beer or coffee. I just check them periodically to make sure they achieve full gel.
 
I soap at a 33% lye concentration and find that I have to insulate all my soaps to get gel. I put my wooden lid on then lay a towel over the top. I too gel all my soaps and I always use milk with the exception if I'm using aloe, beer or coffee. I just check them periodically to make sure they achieve full gel.
Pardon stupid me, and sorry to hijack, but I've rarely tried CP and so far always individual molds... How would you check for full or partial gel? I'm asking coz the pics I've seen on partial start in the center (or is it reverse, gel from outside?), so I'm assuming there's another way to check other than slicing one end?
 
No, you are correct, gelling occurs from the inside out. As the soap heats up from the inside it spreads concentrically outward, which is why it looks like a darker center on the inside with a ring of lighter soap on the outer edges.

You are less likely to get gel in individual molds than in loaf molds just because it can cool so much more quickly in the individual molds. Loaf molds have more soap volume to heat up and gel more easily. There are several factors that can contribute to or impede the heat required to ensure gel. The amount of liquid used, as well as other heat-producing ingredients in the formula, and of course the amount of heat used during and after the process of making the soap.

If you want full gel in your individual soap molds, depending on your formula, you will probably have to insulate them and even possibly use the CPOP method. If you don't care about gel for your individual molds, I wouldn't worry about it, because you are not likely to get a partial gel anyway.

But if you are doing larger volume molds, such as when you mentioned in another thread that you used a kitchen container and cut the soap into bars, then partial gel could happen if the circumstances contribute (more heat inside, but more cool outside the soap). That's when the formula and the amount of heat matter to prevent partial gel.

As to how to check for complete gel without cutting into the soap, I think it's more a matter of experience, sort of a trial and error as you get to know your formulas and how they behave in your circumstances over time. You are in the Phillipines, where I believe it is pretty warm most of the time, so I would expect you have a better chance of getting full gel with a loaf molded soap sitting out in your kitchen than I would in my cold winter kitchen. But again, it depends on various factors, such as amount of liquid in your formula, which oils (Coconut contributes to more heat) used, any sugar or alcohol content (milks, beer, etc.) and other additives.

When I was new I asked a similar question and was told the surface of gelled soap looks a bit more waxy than the surface of a non-gelled soap. That didn't compute well in my mind at the time, but I do see that now to be the case. For me it just took time and experience to learn with my own formulas and my particular environment.
 
I am gonna have to jot down all you said.. I do mostly HP and/or never really worried about gel at this point, but someone is sending me some micas and I read that the colors pop more if the soap has gelled (in CP) so all this info is exactly what I needed.

Thanks @earlene! Really appreciate it :)

@Redtigersun, obviously I have no idea about gel, but I have a post in the photos section of two different soaps with activated charcoal.

One is CP and the other is HP. I know I used the same amount of charcoal for both (1.5 tsp for 800 grams I think) but you'll find the CP is a blacker black and the HP turned grey. In fact I've never gotten black in HP with activated charcoal alone.

Oh btw, when you're done and you're wondering what to do with the charcoal paste that's stuck to the mixing container... Put it on your face! Hehehe good luck with your soap :D
 
If I want my individual molded soaps to gel, I put them in a cardboard box with a heating pad. Turn on the pad, close the box up, and check every hour until I see complete gelling. Then just turn off the heating pad and let set until ready to remove.
 
What does it mean if a soap jells? I'm new to soap making. just received my batch of MP to start soaping. Can someone answer this question please. also does geling form in MP soaps?
 
@For-U gelling happens during saponification, the soap heats up to a liquid/near liquid state. This won't happen in M&P because the saponification has already been done. You could actually take that 2lb block of M&P into the shower with you and use it as soap, but other ingredients have been added that allow the soap to be easily cut, melted and made into new designs.
 
Gel happens when soap is warmed above its melting point and melts from a solid form into a soft, pasty goo.

Gel happens during saponification, but you can also melt soap after its made. Most of the time, however, we see soap in gel only during saponification, so it's easy to think it's something that only happens during saponification.

Melt and pour soap has a lot of solvents in it, so it's not the same as regular soap. You melt it, sure, but I'm not sure M&P that's been melted is the same thing chemically as a regular soap in gel.
 
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