Castile for the New Year anyone?

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I went 9%, because it was a nicer weight to work with than 10%

hmm .. I only went 5% .. I also dropped my water down to 30%. I hope it's going to be ok.

That said .. I made teeny, tiny purist soap .. 100% OO, no scent. 2 cylinders that are only 1.25 inches i.d. .. travel or baby or just tiny, cute soaps for no real reason. Outside cooling for the next 24h.

:wave:
 
I went 3% SF and 35% H2O. I really don't want to touch it for a year so I figured fewer free acids would be better. Though that is way more of a gut check than anything founded on science or experience.
 
It's not technically castile but if it counts among you guys' bastille, I made 85% OO, 25% CO soap with some extra SFing for winter - unmolded and cut on the 1st of the year, so it happens. :) Prior to this all my bath and facial soaps have been completely castile but despite letting them cure for 6 months or longer I just could NOT get past the slimey/gel/gooey build-up. It also seemed to make my bars not last as long. Great soap for babies though, or people that don't mind the sliminess. Is there ever a point in cure time when it (pure castile) no longer is gooey when wettened like that? I take great care to keep my bars dry in between uses and still. Blah. If there is some magic age where it doesn't do that anymore I can still make some and just hide it from myself or something. :)
 
I've been using some modified bastile small bars for hand soaps, they are on the slimy side. They're OO, CO, and sunflower. Not sure I'll use the recipe again, but it was my first batch of soap so I got the soaping101 bastile recipe and modified it since I didn't have enough castor.

I superfatted my castiles at 7%
 
I superfatted at 7% with a 33% discount. Mine traced really fast because of the discount. It really surprised me, because all I've heard is how long castile/bastile takes to trace. I think that's why I have the dream about it separating in the mold.
 
I sold out of so many soaps this "selling season" begining in October that I started hot processing soap to keep up with demand. On a whim, cause I had an extra crock pot, I made castille soap. I use 40% water so I can manipulate it if I color,swirl or scent. I used a smidge of green oxide and OMG Olive from NG.It wasnt a failure but I didn't account for superfatting at the end of cook. I superfatted at the beginning like you do for CP. Was very thick and the tops frosted like they do with hot process when it cools too much. The soap is just like castille. Lather can be stringy but if feels more like a lotion bar than big fluffy suds. Castille can be made to use quicker!
 
The reason I did 25% CO was at the suggestion of a member here, saying as long as there was 20% CO, that would keep the sliminess/gooiness of pure OO soap at bay.
 
Was very thick and the tops frosted like they do with hot process when it cools too much. The soap is just like castille. Lather can be stringy but if feels more like a lotion bar than big fluffy suds. Castille can be made to use quicker!

I'd love to see pics if you have any to share.
 
I superfatted mine at 5%. Just made another batch tonight, this time with evoo. 1.8:1 water:lye and it traced in just under 15 mins. It's sleeping peacefully in the oven for now.
 
Here's another question .. where and how are you going to store this for a year? My batch is tiny .. about 10 wee soaps but I'm thinking since it's such a long curing soap maybe I'll make a BIG batch. I don't know where I'd put it and how to keep it clean and safe.

Thoughts?

ETA: maybe I'll HP a batch .. hmmmmm ...
 
Here's my tiny bars, 1.5" diameter 3/4" thick. They came out of the mold fine but one roll cracked before I cut it, any ideas why? I really like them .. they look rustic.

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I'm thinking of trying your HP version. How long did you have to wait before you could use it?
I don't have pics sorry. I used 32oz olive oil, cheaper the better and whatever soap calq says to do with 40% water to lye at 5% superfat. I was on last batch and tired!! That's why I missed the superfat. If/when I do it again, I will superfat main batch at least 2% and then add about 1 1/2 oz olive or 3 % of oils after 2nd hour of cook. The superfat is good at the end because it keeps the soap a little more workable. "They" say you can use it right after it hardens but I still wait at least 2 weeks so it can dry out.
 
If you scent it I recommend cardboard shoe boxes. I buy mine from Michael's or JoAnn Fabrics. There about 3-5 dollars each. If you put a cottonball with some of the scent it seems to last longer. I read somewhere that soaps will pickup other scents or odors if left out.
 
Finally made mine night before last. Whew! Took about 30min to trace, but then set up nicely. BUT I didn't realize how loooonngg it takes to be firm enough to cut. I just unmolded it this morning -- very carefully because it's still soft and tacky, but was just firm enough to cleanly unmold. I figured getting more air circulation would help. Probably should have discounted my water more lol.

BUT... I finally did a pencil line, and I'm getting soooo impatient to cut! I didn't do any other coloring, and kept it a simple lavender-mint EO with 7% SF. I did try cutting it, but it was sooo soft, like cream cheese, I didn't want to smush it, so pics will have to wait till tomorrow I think. :banghead:
 
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