Can you Help Me With My First Lotion/Cream Attempt ?

[DesertRose]

Hello;

After success at liquid, bar soap and shower gel; i would like to make my own lotion. I can't decide between using a ready cream base or making my own base. And also confused with preservatives.

They're selling this cold process, concentrated cream base;
- Ecocert and Halal Certified
- Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cetearyl Alcohol, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Sucrose Stearate.

Do you think that the cream base above is 100% healthy ? If not, here is my recipe to make my own base;
70-80% Distilled Water --> (Or may be rose water / lavender water)
3-6% Emulsifying wax --> (CETEARYL ALCOHOL & SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE)
3-5% Co-Emulsifier --> (Stearic Acid)
8-23% Oils and Butters --> (Shea Butter + Coconut Oil + Infused olive oil (sage, chamomile, black tea or st john's wort)
1% Preservative --> (Can't decide which one to use)

Preservative Options
- Lexgard Natural --> Ecocert Certified - Glyceryl Caprylate (and) Glyceryl Undecylenate - Effective range is pH 4-8 (Water soluble)
- KEM DHA -- > Benzyl Alcohol, Dehydroacetic Acid,Water - Effective range is pH 3-7 (Soluble at alcohol and propylene glycol)
- KEM-EHG -- > Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin - Effective range is pH 3-12 (Soluble at alcohol, glycerin, glycols)
- Phenethyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol - Effective range is pH 4-8 (Best soluble at alcohol, glycols and polar fats - less soluble at water)
- LEMA 14 --> Magnolol, Honokiol, Sodium Levulinate
- Microcare SB --> Ecocert and Cosmos Certified - Sodium Benzoate (and) Potassium Sorbate - Effective range is pH 4-6 (Water soluble)

The seller suggest me using KEM DHA or KEM-EHG.

I also would like to add herbal extracts such as Wheat Germ and Gotu Kola.

Do you think i should use ready base cream or make my own recipe ? For ready base cream, you only add water, preservative and other stuff such as extracts and vitamins.

My father suffers from hemorrhoids, he had a surgery and recovered in the past but after 15 years he's having a recurrence. Can i make a special cream for that purpose ?

 

[DesertRose]

Can i add both blueberry extract and wheat germ extract to the lotion ?

 

[glendam]

For the preservatives selection, I would suggest reading this page, in addition to knowing the ph range, you also need to know if those preservatives are broad spectrum, if they work against a bacteria and/or fungus or both. The extracts (blueberry and wheatgerm) would be “food” for any bacteria, so you need to be mindful of how much of those you use.

 

[DesertRose]

For the preservatives selection, I would suggest reading this page, in addition to knowing the ph range, you also need to know if those preservatives are broad spectrum, if they work against a bacteria and/or fungus or both. The extracts (blueberry and wheatgerm) would be “food” for any bacteria, so you need to be mindful of how much of those you use.

Thank you

I decided to use a ready cream base. According to the below recipe by the seller, Lexgart Natural is a sufficient preservative;
Cream Base: %15
Distilled Water: %79
Aloe Vera Extract: %5
Lexgart Natural: %1 - Glyceryl Caprylate (and) Glyceryl Undecylenate - Effective range is pH 4-8 (Water soluble)

Instead of Aloe Vera extract, i would like to add below extracts and oils;
- Blueberry extract,
- Wheat germ extract,
- Shea or mango butter,
- Coconut oil,
- Sage infused olive oil,
- Rosehip oil,
- Glycerin,
- Resveratrol,
- A little EO or FO

I expect the ph value of the final product around 5. Still can't decide using whether Lexgart Natural or KEM-EHG (Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin)

It's written that KEM-EHG has a broad spectrum and is very effective between pH 3-12 against bacteria, mold and yeast.

 

[DesertRose]

Is there any advantage/disadvantage between cold process vs hot process lotion (cream) making ? In terms of quality, efficiency, comforrt of use etc.

 

[AliOop]

Is there any advantage/disadvantage between cold process vs hot process lotion (cream) making ? In terms of quality, efficiency, comforrt of use etc.

If you are using a premade base, you need to follow the manufacturer's directions on whether to use cold process or hot process. My understanding is that cold process is most typical for premade bases.

 

[DesertRose]

If you are using a premade base, you need to follow the manufacturer's directions on whether to use cold process or hot process. My understanding is that cold process is most typical for premade bases.

For cold process, i'll use pre-made cream base, here is the base ingredients they're selling;
- Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein,
- Cetearyl Alcohol,
- Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil,
- Glyceryl Stearate,
- Sucrose Stearate.

They say that water/glycerin based herbal extracts can be added and work well with this base. But i wonder if i can add small amounts of (such as %3) oils like sage infused olive oil and mango butter.

 

[AliOop]

For cold process, i'll use pre-made cream base, here is the base ingredients they're selling;
- Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein,
- Cetearyl Alcohol,
- Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil,
- Glyceryl Stearate,
- Sucrose Stearate.

They say that water/glycerin based herbal extracts can be added and work well with this base. But i wonder if i can add small amounts of (such as %3) oils like sage infused olive oil and mango butter.

Each base is different, so you really need to contact the manufacturer and ask them. They will tell you how much can be added of each type of ingredient.

 

[DesertRose]

Each base is different, so you really need to contact the manufacturer and ask them. They will tell you how much can be added of each type of ingredient.

Thank you. My last question, independently of the base, is it a good idea to add 2 different herbal extracts in the same lotion ? For example, Wheat Germ Extract + Blueberry Extract for their cell generation and pro-retinol properties for anti-aging purpose. Do they make a good synergy and can we get benefits ?

 

[AliOop]

Thank you. My last question, independently of the base, is it a good idea to add 2 different herbal extracts in the same lotion ? For example, Wheat Germ Extract + Blueberry Extract for their cell generation and pro-retinol properties for anti-aging purpose. Do they make a good synergy and can we get benefits ?

You would need to research that with sources specializing in formulating cosmetics. Have you ever checked out Humblebee & Me, SwiftCraftyMonkey, or Formula Botanica?

 

[DesertRose]

You would need to research that with sources specializing in formulating cosmetics. Have you ever checked out Humblebee & Me, SwiftCraftyMonkey, or Formula Botanica?

Thank you

 

[Zany_in_CO]

I can't decide between using a ready cream base or making my own base.

I learned to make lotion by buying a kit to get the hang of it.

Majestic Mountain Sage Blog has 358 lotion and cream tutorials and 19 salve recipes. it's a good place to learn how to make stuff from scratch.

also confused with preservatives.

You can learn about using different preservatives there too.

GOOD LUCK!

 

[DesertRose]

@glendam @AliOop @Zany_in_CO

Thank you all. I did it

It looks and feels great, and it seems to work as well. Quickly absorbed and doesn't irritate for now.

Recently one of my friends complained me about his ''Psoriasis & Eczema'' like skin inflammation on the outside of his elbows. We applied the lotion on his elbows just 1 time and the other day they're all gone.

The recipe i use is like that;
- Premade base cream (cold process): Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cetearyl Alcohol, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Sucrose Stearate. 7%

- Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) powder, water soluble, 3%
- Vitamin E (Tocopheryl acetate) 2%
- Blueberry Extract (Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract), water soluble 5%
- Glycerin 3%
- Coconut Oil 4%
- Sage infused Olive Oil 4%
- Preservative 0,5% (Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin)
- Distilled Water 87%
- Lavender Oil 1% (For scent) - Lavandula Intermedia Oil

Do you have any advice for me ? Is there anything wrong with my recipe; regarding ingredients, usage rates ? I'm considering of adding Vitamin B5 (D-Panthenol) and Wheat Germ Extract.

 

[Zany_in_CO]

Recently one of my friends complained me about his ''Psoriasis & Eczema'' like skin inflammation on the outside of his elbows. We applied the lotion on his elbows just 1 time and the other day they're all gone.

WOW! Good for you!

Do you have any advice for me ? Is there anything wrong with my recipe; regarding ingredients, usage rates ?

There's an old saying, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". LOL That applies in this case. With that kind of success I wouldn't mess with adding anything else... sometimes "less" is "more".

Keep up the good work!

 

[AliOop]

Do you have any advice for me ? Is there anything wrong with my recipe; regarding ingredients, usage rates ? I'm considering of adding Vitamin B5 (D-Panthenol) and Wheat Germ Extract.

Be sure to pH-test every variation of lotion that you make. You must always confirm that the final product is a good pH for skin and also within the correct pH range for the preservative you have selected. Many preservatives work only in certain pH ranges. If your product is outside of that range, you must adjust pH before adding the preservative.

Also, remember that the more extracts you add, the harder your preservative will have to work. To say it another way, when you overwork your preservative, it is easier for your lotion to go bad.

Anyway, congrats on making your first batch, and having it be so successful. I waited a long time before making lotions, and now I love it.

 

[DesertRose]

WOW! Good for you!

There's an old saying, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". LOL That applies in this case. With that kind of success I wouldn't mess with adding anything else... sometimes "less" is "more".

Keep up the good work!

Thank you !

Be sure to pH-test every variation of lotion that you make. You must always confirm that the final product is a good pH for skin and also within the correct pH range for the preservative you have selected. Many preservatives work only in certain pH ranges. If your product is outside of that range, you must adjust pH before adding the preservative.

Also, remember that the more extracts you add, the harder your preservative will have to work. To say it another way, when you overwork your preservative, it is easier for your lotion to go bad.

Anyway, congrats on making your first batch, and having it be so successful. I waited a long time before making lotions, and now I love it.

Thanks