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I can not imagine cocoa butter being divine smelling! I don't think I will ever use it again!
I finally don't smell it anymore!
 
I haven't worked with IPM before (just got some recently to fiddle with for a lotion). I think I remember reading somewhere (probably swiftmonkey) that adding IPM to a formulation normally requires a slight increase in the emulsifier.

Did you use IPM at 1%? I'm interested in how that works out!

Yes it was SwiftMonkey but she doesn't say how much more emulsifier to add to compensate.

Any ideas?

I'm making another batch today! I've gone Sugar Scrub :crazy:

Today I'm going to chill it & whip it!
 
"...I still had sugar on me when I finished! I had to get back in the shower & use my whipped soap to get everything off!..."

It sounds like you didn't have quite enough emulsifier in the recipe if it's not rinsing off cleanly. Been there done that! :) I want the scrub to rinse off nicely, leaving just a pleasant lotiony film of fat on my skin, nothing more. I found the difference is pretty small between a scrub that leaves a greasy, sugary mess on my skin and a scrub that leaves me with that just-right, luxurious lotion-y feel.

I might add another 0.5 to 1.0% of emulsifier to the recipe and see what results come from that. You might need a little bit more emulsifier above that, but it's easy to go too far the other direction too. Best to sneak up on the right percentage so you don't miss it.
 
*Shines Deanna Beacon*

How much additional emulsifier do we need when adding IPM to a formulation?

LillyBella, did the IPM make a big difference? Did it feel less greasy? I didn't consider that recipe to feel overly greasy once lotionified on the skin. After rinsing it off, I can even touch my tablet without leaving fingerprints.
 
I haven't tried IPM in a sugar scrub, so I can't really answer your question, SnappyLlama. But maybe my thoughts about tweaking the emulsifier in general will give you a direction to head. I hope anyways!
 
Tomorrow's batch I won't use the IPM, then I will have something to compare it to! I'm kind of doing this backwards.

When I change one percentage in a recipe, do I have to change the whole recipe & reformulate?

This isn't like cooking - a pinch of this a little of that :lolno:
 
Thought I'd share my absolute favorite sugar scrub. I wish I could say I came up with this one, but the props are totally due to Sarah Milroy at Spicey Pinecone. It's hands-down nicer than anything I've tried at any fancy-smancy spa... I've been using it to shave (working it to a lotion in the shower)... just amazing!

I do switch out the soy wax for beeswax and the Optiphen Plus for Phenonip since that's what I keep on hand.

30 oz (or more) of Granulated Sugar
9.5 oz. Sweet Almond Oil
3 oz. Coconut Oil
2 oz. Soft & Silky Emulsifying Wax
2 oz. Fragrance Oil
1.65 oz. Avocado Oil
1.5 oz. Stearic Acid
1.35 oz. Pumpkin Seed Oil
1 oz. Soy Wax (I sub out beeswax)
12.5 grams Optiphen Plus (I use phenonip instead)

My sugar scrub came out pretty solid - no oil on top or to mix in. It didn't seem oily at all. Shouldn't it have a little oil to stir around?

I used the above recipe. Also any ideas on incorporating a solid butter like avocado butter into this?
 
Nope, this one doesn't need to be stirred. I haven't adjusted it other than making the wax and preservative substitution. Sorry, I'm not sure how best to do it other than reformulating it.
 
In this particular case, I'd look at your emulsifier as a percentage of the total fats and not get too hung up, for the moment, on what % the emulsifier is of the total recipe.

For example, here's Version 1 of my recipe:
Total fats = 60 g
E-wax 16 g
The emulsifier was 16 / 60 * 100 = 26.7% of the total fats

The balance of the recipe was preservative, fragrance, and a bit clay for color -- just 0.5% to 2% of each. I didn't change the proportions of these ingredients from batch to batch, so I basically ignored them for the purposes of tweaking my recipe. I added sugar at about 150% of the weight of my scrub base -- again something I ignored for the purposes of refining the recipe.

Version 1 left my skin feeling too clean and not very lotiony. So I reduced the emulsifier...

Version 2:
Total fats = 60 g
E-wax 14 g
The emulsifier was 14 / 60 * 100 = 23.3% of the total fats

This version with 3.4% less emulsifier left my hands unpleasantly greasy. Yuck. Need more emulsifier so more of the fats wash off, especially in cool water.

Version 3:
Total fats = 78 g
E-wax 18.5 g
The emulsifier was 18.5 / 78 * 100 = 23.7% of the total fats

This version increased the emulsifier by only 0.4%, but the difference was noticeable. I got that just-right lotiony feel when I washed the scrub off with warm water. It left a trace too much fat on my skin when washing with cool water so I think I need a wee bit more emulsifier.

PS -- My scrubs are a firm paste in the jar, no runny oils. Once I warm the paste in my fingers, it starts to soften and loosen up, but it is never runny.
 
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