Batter solidified within minutes (recipe test)

[GinangO]

Hi My first thread I've been testing different recipes using alternative oils. For this batch, my battered solidified so quick while I'm preparing the FOs. I decided to transfer it to my crockpot (has gelled now as I type this). Posting my recipe below and the ff notes if it helps:

- I attempted to soap at <100F
- I added 3% SL to lye water
- After it solidified I tried to do a double boiler thinking it will soften it but it didn't

I have a feeling I should have done higher temp or perhaps could it be a lot of soy wax? I appreciate your thoughts/inputs!

 

[lsg]

It is possible that you used too much soybean wax in the recipe. That along with SL might present a problem. With wax, you might add it at the end of a light trace or stable emulsion. Wax hardens quickly, so a high temp. might be advisable.

 

[ScentimentallyYours]

Did you use a stick blender @GinangO? Here’s what I do with success. Maybe the steps will help you identify what went wrong.

• All my separate colors are prepared first in separate containers.
• I use fresh oils for soap designs, because old oils can accelerate trace.
• I use 15% soy wax, which means I need to soap at around 120 degrees F when all oils are still clear, prior to adding the warm Lye mixture.
• I add a nonaccelerating fragrance oil to the blended oils.
• I no longer use a stick blender for combining oils and lye. Instead, I stir by hand with a whisk until reaching emulsion or very light trace.
• At emulsion, the batter is poured into prepared cups and stirred with a spoon until colors are uniform.
• Once all batters are prepared, I proceed with the design.
• It helps to have all containers and even the soap molds warmed up if the room is very cold.

Hope this helps you troubleshoot your process!

 

[GinangO]

Did you use a stick blender @GinangO? Here’s what I do with success. Maybe the steps will help you identify what went wrong.

• All my separate colors are prepared first in separate containers.
• I use fresh oils for soap designs, because old oils can accelerate trace.
• I use 15% soy wax, which means I need to soap at around 120 degrees F when all oils are still clear, prior to adding the warm Lye mixture.
• I add a nonaccelerating fragrance oil to the blended oils.
• I no longer use a stick blender for combining oils and lye. Instead, I stir by hand with a whisk until reaching emulsion or very light trace.
• At emulsion, the batter is poured into prepared cups and stirred with a spoon until colors are uniform.
• Once all batters are prepared, I proceed with the design.
• It helps to have all containers and even the soap molds warmed up if the room is very cold.

Hope this helps you troubleshoot your process!

Yes I used a stick blender, initially just hand stirred but even with that it started to thicken but I was afraid it will just be a false trace so I used the blender pulsing for about 20 secs but it has gotten really thick already. I would probably need to adjust my soy wax % too. I appreciate all the tips! I'll take note of this and will do another attempt tonight

 

[GinangO]

It is possible that you used too much soybean wax in the recipe. That along with SL might present a problem. With wax, you might add it at the end of a light trace or stable emulsion. Wax hardens quickly, so a high temp. might be advisable.

Yes that could be a factor too. I think I'll have to keep my soy wax under 15%, and try this time without SL. I used it because I originally do HP and always use SL as I like my batter fluid. However this is my first time using it in CP as I read it here it helps with lather. But I'll do more experimentations Even with trial and error the process excites me lol!

 

[Susan Cote]

Did you use a stick blender @GinangO? Here’s what I do with success. Maybe the steps will help you identify what went wrong.

• All my separate colors are prepared first in separate containers.
• I use fresh oils for soap designs, because old oils can accelerate trace.
• I use 15% soy wax, which means I need to soap at around 120 degrees F when all oils are still clear, prior to adding the warm Lye mixture.
• I add a nonaccelerating fragrance oil to the blended oils.
• I no longer use a stick blender for combining oils and lye. Instead, I stir by hand with a whisk until reaching emulsion or very light trace.
• At emulsion, the batter is poured into prepared cups and stirred with a spoon until colors are uniform.
• Once all batters are prepared, I proceed with the design.
• It helps to have all containers and even the soap molds warmed up if the room is very cold.

Hope this helps you troubleshoot your process!

Helpful instruction, well done. I just started experimenting with pure soywax. Made my first batch lastnight. Did not attempt to add colorants on the first go. It's summer in New Zealand so had a warm room. In my studio 81f (27.5c.)
Was thinking summer is a very good time to make cp soap with soywax as an additive. Soy wax sparked my interest as a possible way to aid scent retension. It also brings a creamy element to cp soap. I used a green tea,lemongrass and lime for my eos. Smells devine . I used flower moulds for my fist attempt. Next I'll make a loaf so I can do a three color swirl. So glad I came across your post
Thank you!

 

[ScentimentallyYours]

Helpful instruction, well done. I just started experimenting with pure soywax. Made my first batch lastnight. Did not attempt to add colorants on the first go. It's summer in New Zealand so had a warm room. In my studio 81f (27.5c.)
Was thinking summer is a very good time to make cp soap with soywax as an additive. Soy wax sparked my interest as a possible way to aid scent retension. It also brings a creamy element to cp soap. I used a green tea,lemongrass and lime for my eos. Smells devine . I used flower moulds for my fist attempt. Next I'll make a loaf so I can do a three color swirl. So glad I came across your post
Thank you!

Glad the information helped you @Susan Cote. Please post a picture of your soap(s) so we can ooo and aah!

I followed the steps above for my Mount Saint Helens soap in the February Scrubby Soap Challenge. I mixed the batter and colors in used paper coffee cups, which meant they got a second use before getting tossed in the trash. Voila! Saved washing 10 containers during that soap session.

 

[Susan Cote]

Glad the information helped you @Susan Cote. Please post a picture of your soap(s) so we can ooo and aah!

I followed the steps above for my Mount Saint Helens soap in the February Scrubby Soap Challenge. I mixed the batter and colors in used paper coffee cups, which meant they got a second use before getting tossed in the trash. Voila! Saved washing 10 containers during that soap session.

Great idea! I usually save mine for starting seeds and a way to share the joy of growing your own! I love your idea as well. Anything to recycle and help out our beautiful earth I'm all in

 

[Susan Cote]

Great idea! I usually save mine for starting seeds and a way to share the joy of growing your own! I love your idea as well. Anything to recycle and help out our beautiful earth I'm all in

Oh and yes as I take out of the moukds I'll post. First one was nothing fancy

 

[Susan Cote]

My first loaf is out of the mould. This was one of those let go and let is be what it wants moments. I used activated charcoal, madder root powder and Himalayan rhubarb for my colorants. Oh, French red clay too. The red clay with the madder root went off fast and so did the activated charcoal. The main batter was fine. So had to fast forward mould entry and let go of pre-plans lol.
This soap reminded me of my walk through a lava field at Mauna Kea on the big Island. Pele a Hawaiian goddess said to be destructive and creative! So named it after her. Used 15% pure sw along with 00, co, caster and shea butter and avacado oil E0s pink grapefruit, patchouli and cedar atlas. Must do a lot more experimenting!