ALL EXPERT SOAPMAKERS, DO YOU RECOGNIZE THIS ? (I don't)

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viva la vida

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THANK YOU 'SOAP BUDDY' AND 'CWARREN' FOR YOUR REPLIES. WELL I FINALLY UPLOADED THE PHOTOS OF MY 'MYSTERY' SOAP. I don't know what happened to it (my soap). Anyway, I have, in my short soapmaking experience, made a total of about 8 batches of soap. They all came out very nice. Except for this last one. (it is still curing, but in my 'clean up' it really made nice lather, etc.) I think the soap will be 'okay'. But I just wondered **** HAS ANYONE EVER SEEN THIS BEFORE? **** Here is the recipie.(All in ounces) 1 castor oil, 11.75 coconut,3 jojoba,23.25 olive,19.5 palm,6 shea butter,8 5/8 lye,24 water,3.25 fragrance oil. Naturally the FO was added very last. (No coloring was added) THANK YOU !! :) (You can enlarge the photo, if you need to, once you link to the page)

photo # 1 http://flic.kr/p/8SVsb4
photo # 2 http://flic.kr/p/8SVsb2
 
I have seen that before. Had it happen. I figured I soaped too cool and had some resolidifying. Suppose it could be the fragrance, but it wasn't the FO in my case, I don't think. I add FOs to oils and blend them in before adding lye. What temps did you use?

The semi-circular pattern would lend itself to the resolidifying theory; I can see that pattern being created by the pouring action. Or maybe.... streaks of more saponified fats if stirring was too slow? (Again, that was not my problem.) Do you stir by hand or stick blender?

Good news is the soap was just fine. Yours probably is, too.

Anyone else see this?
 
How warm were your oils and lye when you combined them? Did you reach a true trace? Is it possible that the fragrance that you used accelerated trace?

I have seen it before on a soap that wasn't mixed properly and at too cool a temp. The stearic from one of the soapmaking oils didn't get completely incorporated into a batch and started to solidify.
 
THANKS BAKING NANA & SOAPBUDDY !#1 What are you doing up so late ??
#2 I did use a stick blender.
#3 110 degrees (both the lye and oils/fats)
#4 I think it reached true trace... but I am not experienced enough to
know the difference. ???
#5 I had an 'inlkling' ~ ~ ~ as I was pouring it, that perhaps the
'batter' was cooling too fast. I was using a rather large pitcher
to mix everything.
#6 I was 'worried' it might sieze shortly after I added the FO, and worried about it cooling, so I was working very quickly to get it in the mold.
(I've read alot about the 'batter' siezing, I had visions of my stick blender
getting stuck in it....) You should have seen me, it was a true "Lucy" moment. ha ha (as in "I Love Lucy")
 
I'm in Cali. It's not midnight yet. :)
I would try mixing your next batch to maybe a medium trace. Kind of like thickened gravy. Add your fragrance to your cooled off melted oils.
If you think your soap might seize, let it. It will gel in your container, then you can just pour/glop into your mold when it's in full gel. :)
 
I can't sleep. Just about to quit and go to bed anyway!

Temps sound fine to me. So...I'm guessing it had something to do with the FO not getting mixed in well and causing, not sure how to explain it, streaks of accelerated soap? Try mixing fragrances into oils before adding lye. At least that would eliminate that possibility and give you one less thing to stress over at trace. And I got a kick out of your "Lucy" remark. I remember that feeling when I first started soaping. Glad no one had a camera on me back then!

Soap gods must have been bored and decided to mess with you. Just tell people you meant to do that, and isn't your monochromatic swirl wonderful!!
 
Thanks for the replies.... Question ? Won't adding the FO with the cooled oils, bring the temp down too much, before adding the lye solution? I thought the two liquids should be same temperature.
One other item, that might lend a clue as to what happened. When I first took the soap out of the mold, it looked very good. Actually, I was very pleased with it. All the sides looked pristine. .... until that dreadful moment when I sliced it ! ! ! That very same week, I got a really bad haircut, so... two slam-dunks for the soap Gods.....
 
Oils and lye don't have to be at the same exact temp. I add my fragrance to my cooled off oils and touch the soap pot with my hand, then touch the outside of my lye pitcher. If both feel around the same, I mix them.
 
soapbuddy said:
Oils and lye don't have to be at the same exact temp. I add my fragrance to my cooled off oils and touch the soap pot with my hand, then touch the outside of my lye pitcher. If both feel around the same, I mix them.

Ditto

I make 2# batches for custom orders. Not a problem.
 
soapbuddy said:
...If you think your soap might seize, let it. It will gel in your container, then you can just pour/glop into your mold when it's in full gel. :)

Thanks for posting that soapbuddy. Some things that really make sense just never occur to me :oops:
 
rubyslippers said:
soapbuddy said:
...If you think your soap might seize, let it. It will gel in your container, then you can just pour/glop into your mold when it's in full gel. :)

Thanks for posting that soapbuddy. Some things that really make sense just never occur to me :oops:
You're welcome and good luck next time! :)
 
oils and water can be anywhere between 90-110, some people dont even check temps at all!
 
honor435 said:
oils and water can be anywhere between 90-110, some people dont even check temps at all!
I generally don't check temps, myself. If I make cp I rtcp(room temp cold process); if I make hp I cphp(crock pot hot process) and let my Rival do the work for me.
 
I make 2# batches for custom orders. Not a problem.

I think I will stick to smaller batches too, for now... and ***** THANKS TO
EVERYONE WHO REPLIED ***** I found the information everyone gave to be very helpful.
:)
ps. I don't know how this is going to appear once I submit it. ?? (First time I am quoting.)
 
What you see in the soap are streaks of glycerine.
When the soapbatter gets (too) hot after pouring, it will kind of separate, but only inside.
Most of the time you won't notice, but when using Titanium Dioxide, this will give the soap a kind of marbled look.

Some FO's provoke this behaviour.

I'm not sure if it will help to avoid this phenomenon, but you could add your FO to your oils and SB it, before adding the lye; it is not a "must" to add it after trace. (just noticed that Soapbuddy gave that hint too :))

HTH
 
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