As I mentioned above I never hydrate mine. I use Hardwood AC most of the time but have used Bamboo AC the same way. My soaps are never scratchy from the AC and I just spoon it into thin batter. Been doing this for 7 yrsI must have been doing the AC wrong all this time. I never hydrate my AC. I just mix it with some oil just before mixing into my separated batch. This is the first I've heard of hydrated AC and clay! But I haven't had an issue, my swirls look good, and I haven't heard of any complaints either. I don't use Bamboo, the one I buy is from wood. So am I doing it wrong? I need to hydrate?:neutral:
Elements in Colorado has it. I used the smooth type to make Lumps of Coal soaps for Xmas (ho ho ho)... 2% is too much... it dirties the wash cloth.Where can one buy Activated Bamboo Charcoal. Googled it, Amazon is the only place coming up for me.
Which is way I have a warning that states do not use a $20 White Wash Cloth.Elements in Colorado has it. I used the smooth type to make Lumps of Coal soaps for Xmas (ho ho ho)... 2% is too much... it dirties the wash cloth.
https://www.elementsbathandbody.com/search.php?mode=search&page=1&q=charcoal&keep_https=yes
I add roughly 1tsp PPO and let it hydrate in water before I start measuring everything else. Depending on my water discount I will later subtract the water I used for hydrating from my lye water.
The useage rate will vary depending on the intended color (grey vs black) but for the most part everyone will agree on the hydrating. (TL;DR treat it like clay)
ETA: Artemis was faster
Why do you hydrate the AC? Does it help in some why?
To get a true black, add some charcoal to your batter and mix well. Then dribble a bit more on top. If you can tell the difference between the drops and the batter, you won't get true black in your soap. Keep adding slowly until you can't see any difference, and your batter will look oily black.
I use bamboo charcoal. Uncertain if it is different than AC powder, for soaping purposes, but I've used the bamboo stuff for years.
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