Wow, that's some soft soap after 48 hours!
I ran the recipes (except for the one that made the substitutions) through SoapCalc and it's showing me that there's lots of excess water in them- much more than what I consider to be a full water amount. It's no wonder the soaps are so soft still.
The lye amounts look to be within safe range and the soap should be fine after a good cure, although I'm not sure about that one with the substitutions. That one concerns me because I don't know if the lye was adjusted properly to compensate for the substitutions that were made. If you decide to keep it, definitely conduct a zap-test before trying it out, after it has cured for at least 2 to 4 weeks, of course. You should zap-test the others in like manner as well.
Ditto what Susie said about never making substitutions without adjusting the lye to the different SAP #'s of the substitution oils. I'm not sure what went on in the class or whether any lye adjustments were made for it, but I just thought I'd mention that it's playing with fire to forge ahead and make soap without first making the proper adjustments when subbing oils.
Goodness, I probably sound like a critical cranky-pants, and I don't mean to, but there sure was a lot of beeswax in that first recipe, I must say. Just a head's-up that you may not get much lather from it.
Like the good Gent said, with a good cure, it's likely that you won't need to toss them out, but whether you end up liking them or not is another story. Only time and cure will tell.
The recipe the good Gent posted is a good starter recipe to make and to learn from..... and also to tweak to your liking as you go forth. Just run it through a good lye calculator to get the proper lye and water amounts for it first. SoapCalc is the calculator I use and it a very good one, although there is a learning curve for those who are new or not familiar with it. I've never used the calculator that Susie mentioned, but if she says it's good and more user-friendly, then I trust her.
IrishLass
I ran the recipes (except for the one that made the substitutions) through SoapCalc and it's showing me that there's lots of excess water in them- much more than what I consider to be a full water amount. It's no wonder the soaps are so soft still.
The lye amounts look to be within safe range and the soap should be fine after a good cure, although I'm not sure about that one with the substitutions. That one concerns me because I don't know if the lye was adjusted properly to compensate for the substitutions that were made. If you decide to keep it, definitely conduct a zap-test before trying it out, after it has cured for at least 2 to 4 weeks, of course. You should zap-test the others in like manner as well.
Ditto what Susie said about never making substitutions without adjusting the lye to the different SAP #'s of the substitution oils. I'm not sure what went on in the class or whether any lye adjustments were made for it, but I just thought I'd mention that it's playing with fire to forge ahead and make soap without first making the proper adjustments when subbing oils.
Goodness, I probably sound like a critical cranky-pants, and I don't mean to, but there sure was a lot of beeswax in that first recipe, I must say. Just a head's-up that you may not get much lather from it.
Like the good Gent said, with a good cure, it's likely that you won't need to toss them out, but whether you end up liking them or not is another story. Only time and cure will tell.
The recipe the good Gent posted is a good starter recipe to make and to learn from..... and also to tweak to your liking as you go forth. Just run it through a good lye calculator to get the proper lye and water amounts for it first. SoapCalc is the calculator I use and it a very good one, although there is a learning curve for those who are new or not familiar with it. I've never used the calculator that Susie mentioned, but if she says it's good and more user-friendly, then I trust her.
IrishLass
