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Few months ago I happened to read in a dermatologists paper that you should not use extremely cleansing soap on an overly oily skin because that just causes the skin to produce more oil.. Better off with a mild, balanced recipe. Activated charcoal and tee tree EO highly recommended.

From my personal experience (not much) the only oil that makes a difference at 5% is castor oil. Other oils need to be at least 10% and upwards before you can tell/feel any difference. Just my 2 cents.

Sweet! Now I want one for myself...!

1. I have used this method when adding milks in my recipe: 60% of the normal water quantity with my lye and then add the remaining 40% of water as milk (slightly heated) at emulsion/light trace. Has worked great for me. 2. No :-)

Apart from using them in soap, I find an oil heater extremely useful in using up any leftover small quantities of FOs and/or EOs....Plus my wife likes making scented soy candles :-)

Same here, more or less... For my last few batches of soap I have settled in adding the FO/EO/blend/whatever at the last possible second, give it a stir or two with a whisk and mould the darn thing asap, just to be on the safe side. No fancy swirling etc when I need to use up any leftover FOs...

Not sure I really understand the question : You mean the optimal temperature of the soap batter before you add the essential oils? Or the optimal temperatures of the essential oils before you mix them together?

They look great and I bet they smell just as nice, well done!

Thank you! I always cut on its side when i have cocoa (or mica) lines. Thank you! Not really busy though. These were made during a 2 month period, I try making one batch of CP per 7-10 days :)

Vanilla FO & Sweet Orange EO blend, natural colorants. High lard, oatmeal, goat milk and honey with a matching FO. No partial gel this time (yeah!) but I cut it waaaay too soon and i completely butchered it.. Tiger swirl (not a success) with Spearmint, Orange and Patchouli EO blend...

Hi everyone. Here are some of my latest soap projects, feedback is very welcome! Please excuse the awful lighting of the photos..:) My New Years Eve Bastile soap : 80oo-15Co-5Castor. Cocoa line, unscented, coffee grounds and cocoa powder for color. Custom made for my wife, Lavender and...

For me, it smells like baby powder mixed with a little lavender.. I like it and it behaves beautifuly in cp soap. Too bad it discolors a lot.

Welcome!

That is very true, but I am think about this. What if I try a 100 OO soap that is 8 weeks cured and it dries/irritates the skin, while the exact same soap does not any of that after a much longer cure? Then I will have dismissed Olive Oil for nothing.:-?

Because it takes a year to properly cure :-)

I always use 30% lye concentration for my black AC soap.

Thank you for the suggestions everyone. I must admit that I feel a little confused/baffled right now. There are so many variables (oils, colorants, EOs) that need to be reconsidered until I find the reason for the slight dryness and itchiness. I like to cure my soap for 3 months, so the trial...

Same here. I use some super gentle recipes (high olive, high lard, shea butter, almond oil, no more than 15 coconut, superfat 6-9% etc) yet my skin looks and feels somewhat dry (and a little itchy) after a shower. Body lotion takes care of that.

For what it is worth, i used a boatload of AC on my high (50%) lard recipe and it came out fine.

Yes, it would do the trick. There will be some cloudiness left but not a problem. Dont get me wrong, but I would never use this beautiful olive oil in soap..:)