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Is the fragrance formulated for Cold Process soap making?

How about this? https://www.saveonscents.com/product_info.php?products_id=202671

Suggestions.

Cache.

All's well that ends well, I suppose. :-)

I've tried Litsea Cubea Essential Oil and found it to be a fader as well. Try Lemongrass Essential Oil instead. That stuck really well for me.

On another forum I frequent there have been a number of requests for soap supplies that are based in Europe. Since that forum is populated by members living in the United States no one really knows what to say. Can anyone vouch for some reputable vendors in Europe?

Someone on another forum recently had the exact same problem. They made several different batches with the same bad results. As they were packing up their supplies to give up on soap making entirely they said they found the problem. The bottle of lye was Potassium Hydroxide, not Sodium Hydroxide.

Cutout.

You may find Rice Bran Oil to be a nice substitute for Olive Oil as far as properties go.

Flathead.

I like color blocks for Melt and Pour.

If it's not designed for use in Cold Process the color could morph. I had a beautiful purple morph into a puke green when I accidently used the wrong mica.

Greetings and welcome to the addiction. :)

I like Lemongrass myself.

I use an ice bath to keep the temperatures down.

It does not, as soap will always be an alkaline.

EOO?

The picture linked was of a 100% Coconut Oil soap, so the heat was most likely quite high. But I still can't figure out why it would separate like that into an oily cavity.

I'm seeing these oil cavities online more and more lately. Is there a more technical term for them other the Oil Cavities? And what is causing them? Localized separation, internal heat/pressure, or something different entirely...