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I found I dislike shea in soap, and that was at a far lower than 30% addition, but I also find that I like a much higher coconut oil than people swear is possible to like. (My go to bar right now has 80% CO). I'm about to move to different water, so I'm curious to see if I still like the same...

I meant they would need to see it to help with troubleshooting.

You will always, always get some pissy responses back when you offer unsolicited advice or 'try to warn' people, especially if you have no first-hand experience. Etsy is a minefield of variable quality for everything (just go look at Regretsy, if it is still up), and people will do what they will.

ceramic filters are pretty effective, far as I know. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20009242 http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19926110 There's some pretty well known ones (katadyn etc) But yes, as with ANY storage or treatment option, what you do peripherally to the water and equipment...

oooo, I have some shea or cupuacu that wants a new job, and that looks so amazing I may just give it a whirl.

That scene makes me so uncomfortable! (And yes, I didn't need to watch it either)

you know you will be asked for the recipe.... :)

gotcha, thanks!

ok, I can see making confetti soap, with leftovers or trimmings or what have you...but making a bar, then shredding it, then pressing it into a mold again, just for???? (why do commercial makers do it? Like a rebatch with a basic soap into various molds? Too much work for me for no...

I don't understand why you would do this instead of making the soap and pouring it directly into the mold, or rebatching/milling the soap into a workable paste, and then molding. What would the advantage be?

A berkey water filter would do it. Removes bacteria and viruses.

Caveat emptor, as always. I have sensitive skin too, and I read labels _before_ I use products. Granted this label doesn't sound overly helpful, but you noticed at once that the PKO and CO might be too high for your preference. Could definitely still be a specific ingredient you are sensitive...

?? I have never heard superfatting being only adding it after trace/emulsion. It's always discussed how lye doesn't pick and choose which oil it uses up, even at trace, and superfatting and lye discounting are pretty much equivalent, aren't they? Just differ in how you think about the calculation?

The bars will be safe to sell. You could always consider giving your customers the option: "If you prefer a harder, longer lasting bar, storing this soap in a dry location for X amount of time...blah blah blah, or suggest they slip it into linen cupboard or drawer of clothing (in the wrapper)...

So do I, same thing. I'm pretty sure that most municipal water would be just fine. But I guess if you want to use distilled water, you have to know where to look to find it! :)

Also try the contact lens solution area, or ask at the pharmacy.

I, too, dislike the feel of a very conditioning soap, and I actually like high coconut oil soap because of that dislike. I have found that a longer cure helps, and my next goal (which I forgot this last soap batch with the same recipe) is to try a 0% superfat with the conditioning oils. It is...

Would the hygrophilic nature of sugar vs salt also be a contributing factor to the softness? Oh...and searching for information about that lead me to this: http://www.certified-lye.com/safety.html "Lye (sodium hydroxide) may react with various sugars to generate carbon monoxide, which is a...

I would still suggest you measure first and see if it is obvious whether you did or not.....I guess it depends how forgiving the butter is towards extra oil, but my concern would be that you could end up with a huge batch of mediocre butter if you just start adding extra. Could you use it for...

http://www.humblebeeandme.com/quick-guide-cocoa-butter-liquid-oil-ratios/ http://www.humblebeeandme.com/quick-guide-candelilla-wax-liquid-oil-ratios/ These might help you.