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https://www.brambleberry.com/Lavender-Surplus-Fragrance-Oil-P4166.aspx BB has lavender for sale as surplus. I just got some and it behaves beautifully, plus it's water-clear so no discoloration. As far as my nose can tell, it's extremely close to lavender 40/42.

Pomace is the final extraction of olive oil, using heavy pressure and, frequently, hexane solvent. It can be an edible oil as the hexane is scavenged and the trace amounts aren't considered a problem. Many people do try to avoid hexane exposure, however. It won't be a problem in your soap, so...

Alas, no, but trust me--somebody will be along directly with an answer! Even with suppliers in-hand, pay attention to the prices at the store. I can always do better on olive oil and tallow, and frequently do better on palm. It saves on shipping.

:bath1: Awesome! I just use my standard shower soap...maybe I should whip up some shaving soap instead. (Although I will say that my face finally cleared once I used my own soap instead of commercial).

Hey, GrecianPrincess! Welcome to your new addiction. Since you are new, for the first batch or two I'd be inclined to skip the bulk ordering and begin at your local grocery store. You can get the cheapest olive oil (for me, still more economical than ordering from a supplier) as the cheap...

Plus the above; I split into cups and subtract the oil I use to disperse the mica from my recipe (I tend to use the olive to do that since it stays liquid at room temperature). The oil you subtract, then add back in as the mix, will end up saponifying. Adding even at moderately heavy trace...

I have the 1501 and love it! I also have a more square mold...if an external link is allowed here, it's a twin of this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YQO006K/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 That one is a bit more square. I love both, actually. They both produce an easy to handle bar, of a...

+1 on the black iron oxide, but even so, if it's true black, the suds will be gray at best and will mark light-colored washcloths. Be ye forewarned.

It's used in cake icing to whiten it, and in other food items as an anti-caking agent. UV sensitive foods use it as a preservative to lower light damage. While some reports of issues using nano-particles have been reported, food and cosmetic uses don't seem to contain nano-particles.

I can attest to the "don't cook at 170° for an hour" thing. I had a recalcitrant soap last night that, after an hour, wasn't reaching gel phase in the oven. Being tired, and it being late, I heated the oven to 170°, left it go for 30 minutes, then turned the heat off. Gel phase commenced...

I've had the same experience! I made a purple with a burgundy ITP swirl and had the grand fun of watching the Blue #1 warp to a deep red. Which is very hard to distinguish from the burgundy you're swirling into it. It all turned out well in the end, so I've now learned to swirl blind.

Mind you, I currently have five bars in the shower. One is a dragon's blood "test" that "accidentally" found its way in there. The other four are smaller ends and bits from various batches made for Christmas. Most notably, you can make soap for local homeless shelters or shelter for abused...

Since I'd made a somewhat similar (softer and with a tallow/lard split, and no soy wax) immediately thereafter and used Blue #1, I'd wondered if I simply forgot it...but I checked it off on the sheet, and I don't do that unless I just put it in the pot. I guess I didn't use enough for (very...

I made some soap last night using the below formula, with a standard CPOP (preheat to 170°, turn off, put soap inside, and leave in for 2 full hours because we needed the oven). On mix, the overall color was brownish from the honey, without any note of blue or purple. I kept going because...

Anywhere where the dew point is below the temperature of the soap will keep condensation from forming. Or you can close it in a bag (trash bag for larger trays and loafs!) and seal it closed until the temperature equalizes. Only the moisture inside the bag can condense on the soap, after...

Enough. I'm so glad that you've found what you think works for you! And a great day to you and good luck in the future. Bye, now.

DeeAnna has kindly done the high and low water soaps and compared weights out as they cure. The weights fall together, eventually becoming indistinguishable from each other, after two months or so. This is something I've also noticed with my high and low water soap; they come together...

Sure thing! I have to constrain something, and it's going to be a game of changing oil, lye, and water sizes until it approaches the proper weight. I have a distinct feeling it's going to lead to a Newton-Raphson iteration to get the final answer. Like you, this is totally on my "to do"...

You're fine! I'm going to presume it's out of the mold, and now a bar of soap. In really extreme cold temperatures, some surface cracking may occur on fresh soap. I've never seen it happen on cured soap, but I also live in Pennsylvania, not Canada, and our idea of cold is really not that bad...

I haven't seen that from anybody with even minor experience--lye+oil will always be the same if the super fat is not changing. The amount of water won't influence the amount of lye one jot. (I'm including all associated lye-influencing materials in your "oil" amount, including citric acid...