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Here is where you learn all things lotion- hope you have a lot of time on your hands- it's a great blog- http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/. Bottles I get from Wholesale Supplies Plus but I'm not sure if they ship across the pond.

Possibly your scale could be off- those from the get go looked like lye pockets to me. Any FO that was not mixed right into the batter always floated up to the top of the soap and made it look like it was sweating- not a hole. Maybe false trace is what you came into with that part of the batter...

This...oh and I like HP soap better than CP- same recipe I use exactly other than water amount and HP soap rocks the lather and scent more than CP. I learned HP before CP through my grams and while the soap isn't as pretty- it makes up for it in lather and scent.

Only Dos soap I ever had was with Lard. Yuck...Tallow rocks though.

This is what I would do. If you CP or HP- bust up your Castor Oil, Coconut and Superfat and create a creamy stable lather with a some bubbles.

I second this... I can think of a really rude to newbie forum though. :silent:

My pleasure. Have fun with it. It sells well too and thanks for the compliment.:razz:

Welcome... Good luck selling in the UK- they regulate small soap and lotion businesses pretty hard there.

Yeah it's gross:(

She is a horrible example- she colors her soap with crayons. I hate her videos and get into it with her on You Tube. LOL She gives true soap makers a bad name IMHO.

No discoloration or acceleration in my recipe- soaps beautifully- plenty of swirl time and the scent sticks at 1oz ppo. Here is what mine looks like: https://www.etsy.com/listing/158537343/black-raspberries-and-vanilla-a-black?ref=shop_home_feat

This exactly should be your first step with insurance a close second. I would say branding comes third. I didn't really know the importance of this until I worked with my graphic designer. There are a lot of factors that come into play when having your own business and so many things to consider...

Love your soap stamp and packaging and your site. <3 Very awesome!

That's a lot of water- it will take 2-3 weeks for that to get hard- there aren't any really hard oils in that. Crisco is a little hard but not like full palm. I would give it time and reformulate a recipe using a little more by way of hard oils.

If you used TD it might be because of that. Let us know what happens after awhile but it might be one of those that doesn't harden- if not you could always throw it into a pot and cook it. It wouldn't be zappy if there wasn't enough lye so tasting terrible is something it should do after all it...

Oops I didn't know it had been in the mold for only 3 hours- leave for at least 12. :) Anyway, it's pretty soap. I didn't see any cracks at all in it. If you notice that a soap overheats and cracks- try a sneak peek if your worried and you will notice it. When the soap is still hot- take some...

The glass is colored which makes it look like it has a plastic overlay. You want a scale that won't resist EO/FO spills? If so, this one should work for you or you could shell out for the indestructible stainless.

I add the mud at 1 tbs ppo into the oils.

As Juiceman said- too little lye. Your calculations got screwed up somewhere. Diluting lab colors which you should do before you use them won't make soap look like that. I would recheck your lye calculation.

This is my scale: http://www.meatprocessingproducts.com/esc-cseries.html?utm_source=esc-cseries&utm_medium=shopping%2Bengine&utm_campaign=googleproducts&gclid=CPeGmd3O2LgCFepZ7Aod5DIAkg