Search results

The profile location states France, so they would need the regulations for that country.

Things I learned today: Pine TAR is most definitely NOT Pine RESIN! As someone who is very familiar with pine resin, and didn't even know "pine tar" was a thing, I was VERY confused when I saw those recipe measurements!

Honestly, it all depends on your recipe. Harder soap recipes will be ready faster than softer recipes. I find if it's starting to pull away from the side of the mold on it's own {like a millimeter) you're good to go! I find this specially helpful with cavity molds, but also useful with loaves.

I thought the same thing!!!!

Wow! I usually use 2 Tbsp for my 1000 g of oils; I use 1Tbsp for my gardener's soap because I also add 1 Tbsp Activated Charcoal. Oh! And I add the Kaolin clay to my lye-water solution, which I find helps prevent clumps.

Melt and pour?

https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/smf-february-2023-challenge-soap-curls.89903/

I've said it before, and I'll say it again: I am incapable of noticing the difference in smell of rancidity! My mother has tried MANY times, and nope! I can't tell any difference! When SHE takes of her shoes though, I can smell her feet no problem, yet she has NO CLUE!

Hey all! Any word yet on the February challenge? My neuroses is just telling me that February is the shortest month, that's all

Just be VERY careful about splashes!!!

I never have a problem with FO transfer to food... but that's just me. I, too, hate partial gel, and I find it easier to full gel than to try and prevent any gel at all. Before I started placing my soap in a cold oven to insulate, I would wrap it in towels and an electric blanket.

@Mobjack Bay NOW I get what you meant by ombre! 🤪 :rolling:🤓 @Zing those are gorgeous!!!

I'm in Canada and I just put my soaps in a cold oven and it's enough to insulate to gel the whole thing. That drastic difference in look might go away while it cures. Give it a few weeks. As quickly as the soap batter takes to actually mix it up and pour, soap making is a lesson in patience...

@Mobjack Bay I love you!

Hi friends! I went down a Google deep-dive/ rabbit hole! I also fell down a SMF rabbit hole trying to dig myself out of the first one, and it's been a LONG time since HS chemistry! "oil" + NaOH (or KOH for people who are not me) = "soap" but what are those formulas? Does it change depending...

Now we just have to wait until February's challenge! :swinging:

@Nicolesica I am in awe with how your drops turned out! I need to practice. Yours are GORGEOUS!!! If you're willing to share some tips, I'll be listening!

You're more than welcome to try my recipe, if you'd like. It's Katie Carson's Royalty Soap recipe that she provides in the description of all her videos. I chose to switch her Sweet Almond Oil for my choice of Apricot Kernel oil. I usually add 15-30g per 1000g oils kaolin clay, if that helps...

If you are the type of person to melt the hard oils, then add the liquid oils to the melted oils, all before adding the lye-water mixture, I would suggest trying adding the liquid oils to the melted oils, then pour a little bit of that into the micas and mix, then go add the lye-water to the big...

If the oils you're using to mix micas is not included in your soap recipe, then yes; it is adding more of a superfat. What I do is I melt my oils together, and then pour a bit of the now warm, liquid oils into my mica containers and I mix that. It's so easy! No extra math to remember.