Search results

Do you find that the anise slows trace some?

Welcome Eddie! As to how often I need to re-supply it depends on how many soapy experiments I am involved in. When I started it was more often than it is now. I have settled in on just a couple of recipes that my family and I like so i now use a smaller array of oils than when starting as well...

I add the salt into the oils. The lye solution will not hold over 24 or 25% salt in solution. It seems a bit scary at first but once you've reached trace the salt stays in the soap. If you hurry you can even get a swirl or two in...:)

Much simpler for me to use one of the many lye calculators available rather than hand calculating every batch. http://soapcalc.net/calc/SoapCalcWP.asp SoapMakingFriend.com etc... https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/soap-making-friend-fully-operational-thank-you.76481/ is a better link for...

MGM - I can be slow getting back to you since I am not available daily. (other hobbies) I typically run 15 or 20% SF (lye discount) in salt bars. Just because that's what I learned to do. I have an experiment curing with 5%, 10%, 15% and 20% SF just because I can. IMHO salt bars like a good...

Next batch you might add soy wax at 10% and take a bit of the oils that are contributing the line... fatty acids. The wax will help harden the soap. As long as you like the recipe - stick with it.

It LIVES!!! A good sourdough starter is hard to get going and a shame to lose. I need to get one going this year again...

The main reason to not use higher amounts of CA is that it does tend to soften the finished soap resulting in a bar that does not last as long. I routinely use CA at 2% - but my recipe's have been adjusted over time to help compensate for the increase in soluability of the soap. I will also add...

Thought i was gonna see "Hombre" shampoo bars.:shakinghead: Looks like CT had the answer we were all looking for.

I know I'm a little late to the party but.... Since you are going make a lard soap you probably don't need to worry about ease of release or getting a hard bar. I calculate your lye discount at about 1.5% so you should get a nice hard (44 of 29-54) bar with creamy lather (41 of 16-48) and a...

It is better to start a new thread with a link to the old post than to post on a thread that has been idle for a long period of time. That way the origin of the information is still there but folks are less likely to have hurt feelings if someone that is no longer with us does not reply to a...

I use most of the salt bars that I have for when I come in from mechanic stuff or wood cutting. They cut the dirt, pitch and oil right off. LOOONG cure - start with 1 year but the ones at the sinks are 3 to 5 years. They last - I use 100% salt BWO and all coconut oil. I do have a Son-in law...

My non-sciencey answer is - probably. Most of the properties will undoubtedly be so close you won't be able to measure any difference if you had the tools and equipment to do so. In my humble opinion we tend to split hairs from time to time with our modern methods. For example: I assume that my...

And a Merry Christmas to you and to all those on the forum!

In the RED corner we have WINE making her debut... And in the other corner... Sorry. I JUST HAD TO.:nodding::lol:

DB is Dragon's Blood. Red Santal is a decent sandalwood dupe that holds fairly well for me. Black Amber Musk is good too.

And you could always look at DeeAnna's soapmaking info : http://classicbells.com/soap/soapyStuff.html There's lots of good info there. The Beginner's section here has godd info as well and you will get to see a lot of soap makers opinions too.

You use the discoloring FO as a blind swirl in a different FO. I actually do that....:):D

Seems like we at one time talked DeeAnna into doing a thread on "how to" etc. It proved to be a good read while it lasted.( My Google Fu isn't working right now). I owe a lot of what I know about soap making to DeeAnna and just a few others here on this forum.