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Yes! Just taking my son to football and I will report back later...

I put mine in a squirty bottle (after mixing it really well in a paper cup first) then drop in a marble. Each time before i use the bottle i shake it around well and the marble does the mixing for me.

Unfortunately dry, flaky skin is a normal part of aging, so it is only going to be more likely as you get older that you will have to start using products to combat that. At a younger age, a good handmade soap might well have been enough, but at my age, unfortunately it's not. But hey - more...

I'm so sorry I never saw this. Here you go: 35% each of cedar wood and rosemary 20% pine 5% each of white thyme and cinnamon leaf.

Yeah - I tend to measure seeds as tablespoons rather than a percentage of oil weight. I don't think they listed the ingredients in order Mobjack - the sodium hydroxide would not weigh less than the peppermint essential oil.

Are there any additives in your goats milk? I use mine at 100% water content with no issue. Just to check - when you use the goat milk, is there anything else you do different to usual? I'm assuming the recipe is the same as the one you use when you do your swirls normally. And the fragrance...

What I mean is - use your preferred soap recipe with whichever oils you normally use. To make a soap exfoliating, you don't need to change your base recipe, you just need to add exfoliating stuff to it.

That’s the exact ratios I would use. OO doesn’t play well in the soap calcs. If you have a recipe you prefer, why not use that and just put the exfoliating additives in?

Not necessarily, the salt will help it to harden. Zany’s no-slime Castile is very usable in 4 weeks. It does get better with a longer cure though.

@Soapmakerbeginner2343 Yes you can, but it won't be very bubbly. I suggest using aloe juice (just cut some aloe off your own or a friend's plant, peel it and blitz the beejeesus out of it, then strain it) for your water content. This will help to create some extra bubbles. I'm assuming you are...

Hi there - please start a new thread with your question. People won't see it here under @Soapmakerbeginner2343 's thread.

I notice here there is mention of gelling. I do gel all my soaps, and maybe that is why I have no trouble unmolding in about 10-12 hours. Clean as a whistle!

I have the cheapie loaf molds, silicone lined, like this...

Oils with high amounts of palmitic and stearic acid create a hard bar. Too much castor oil can make the bar gummy/sticky so we usually recommend to keep it below 10% - most people use 5%. Saturated fats - (CO and Palm in your recipe) will help to create a hard bar, but as AK seattle has said...

I notice the CO is fractionated - that's unusual for soap. Does it have an effect on the hardness of the soap?

In addition - you have used way too much water, which will also contribute to 'smooshiness'. Change the settings to 'lye concentration', and then 33% (assuming you are using the cold process method. I would probably also reduce the superfat to 2 or 3%, since you don't want to much superfat...

It is possibly overheating, but it you have the A/C on I wouldn't worry about it right now. Just leave it for a day or two and it will likely re-absorb.

You do have to calculate the extra lye required when using citrus juice. The acid will neutralise some of the lye.

Don't fall down - but I MADE SOAP yesterday!! 😲 It's been almost 3 months since I last made soap, due to moving house at very short notice, and then being really busy with work and painted stone orders. So yesterday I finally got back in the game by making a Blood Orange and Patchouli soap.