Working with accelerating FO's

[Obsidian]

Any tips on soaping with scents that are known to moderately accelerate trace? I'm planning a 1lb batch just to see how the scent behaves for me but all the reviews say to expect acceleration and I'm a bit nervous.

 

[lsg]

I have watched tutorials that state the instructor adds accelerating FO to oils at the beginning before adding the lye/liquid mixture. I would also think that soaping at a lower temp. might give one more time to work.

 

[osso]

Also, do not use a water discount.

 

[Obsidian]

I have heard that too but not spoke to anyone who actually has tried it. Seems most people save a couple ounce of oil from the recipe and temper the FO with that then hand stir it in. I'd like to do a 2-3 color in the pot swirl and use my egg mold but I suppose it will be too thick for that.

 

[cmzaha]

I add the cranky fo into the oils and stick blend them in. At least that way I know what it is going to do and the oil seems to help slow the acceleration. Actually, I almost always batches I add the fo's or eo's into the oils so I know they are well mixed in. I find I cannot always get it mix in properly if it accelerates.
I have one overheater fo I add in after the lye and pray I get it in the mold and in the freezer in time. Do not water discount with a cranky fo. Did that last night, I forgot to check my notes on a fo I was using for salt bars.
Accelerating fo + water discount + 58% salt =cement on a stick :-( But I did save the batch and it actually looks great.

 

[OliveOil2]

If you use castor oil in your recipe you can mix the fo into the castor oil and mix this into the soap. To me this seems to help, but I think the temp and amount of water are more important.

 

[Obsidian]

I'll try mixing the FO's into the oils, I like the fact that I can get it mixed in completely that way. Low temps and full water to slow it down even more. Hopefully it will stay fluid enough to pout through a small funnel, if not then I get to use my new oval mold.

 

[Obsidian]

Just got done pouring my soap. It wasn't too bad, I did add the scent to the oils and stick blended in the lye water for just a few bursts before switching to a whisk. It was pretty thick by the time I poured but not excessively. I was able to do a in the pot swirl and I got to use my new cavity mold.
The scent is Moroccan Fig by BB. Not a very nice scent and one I regret as no one likes it, hope it fades with cure.

 

[dixiedragon]

Recently, I have started to let the soap gel in the soap pot. I guess when an FO speeds trace, causes siezing, etc, what is happening is that it is speeding up the reaction? In my experience, those tend to make the soap heat up.

Once the soap siezes, I just keep stirring it gently with a silicone spatula, not the stick blender. The soap will get very hot. (Wear gloves.) It will go through several stages. First it will be thick and sort of grainy, like cold mashed potatoes. Then it will get dark and clear as it hits gel stage. It is very liquid at this stage. Sometimes it will have some chunky bits in it, kind of like curdled hollandaise sauce. Finally, the color will lighten, the soap will be less transluscent and it will have a sort lava-like texture to it. I keep stirring throughout this process - not vigourously, just enough to not let the soap seperate. When it has cooled off some, then I pour it.

 

[Obsidian]

Mine was thick and sort of grainy when I poured but since I used a cavity mold, I don't expect it to properly gel which is ok.

 

[nebetmiw]

DixieDragon that is interesting I will have to try that with my florals to see it it works. I have had to FO go fast on me. I soap kind of cool to cool depending on how fast I am working. I prefer RTcp but sometimes I just can not wait that long. I add my FO at the end after I have hit med light trace. This is where some FO's have gotten me. I need to add FO on some at real early light trace to give them time. Think I will try DD today for the fun of it and see what happens.

 

[nframe]

Recently, I have started to let the soap gel in the soap pot. I guess when an FO speeds trace, causes siezing, etc, what is happening is that it is speeding up the reaction? In my experience, those tend to make the soap heat up.

Once the soap siezes, I just keep stirring it gently with a silicone spatula, not the stick blender. The soap will get very hot. (Wear gloves.) It will go through several stages. First it will be thick and sort of grainy, like cold mashed potatoes. Then it will get dark and clear as it hits gel stage. It is very liquid at this stage. Sometimes it will have some chunky bits in it, kind of like curdled hollandaise sauce. Finally, the color will lighten, the soap will be less transluscent and it will have a sort lava-like texture to it. I keep stirring throughout this process - not vigourously, just enough to not let the soap seperate. When it has cooled off some, then I pour it.

Do you do all this gentle stirring with the heat still on underneath (to maintain the temperature I guess)?

 

[dixiedragon]

Nope, no heat. I stumbled across this when I was dividing a batch to use 2 different scents. By the time the first batch was scented and poured, the second part of the soap had gelled in the pot. It doesn't take color well at this stage, though.