Here is some info I posted on one of the forums where I am a mod. I am reposting it here and I hope it helps you.
Just a couple of batches under your belt is not enough to start to sell. You will need to be able to properly formulate a recipe. Know how well that recipe will do 3 months down the road, or 6 months down the road. Read up on properties of oils and what they add to your soap. Know which oils will make a soap hard and which soft. Read up on each oil's shelf life. Some oils have a short shelf life and can be prone to oxidation or DOS (dreaded orange spots). You should not be selling soap that zaps. That could be a serious liability issue.
Please keep your pets or kids out of your soap making area. Make sure that you have all the proper safety equipment and gear. This includes goggles (or a face shield), long sleeve shirt, long pants and shoes (not flip flops or sandals with open toes). Plastic or rubber gloves are a must too. Have a jug of water nearby if you get some lye crystals or flakes on you. Lye can seriously injure you or burn you. Please respect it. Always. ALWAYS run your recipe through a
lye calculator, even if you got the recipe from a book. Mistakes do happen. One of the calculators that I use is The Sage:
http://www.thesage.com/calcs/lyecalc2.php
Another one is right here at BrambleBerry>
http://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Lye-Calculator.aspx
Have an accurate scale. Both ounces and grams is preferable, especially for those small batches. Cups are NOT accurate enough to soap with. You need accurate measurement, so your soap isn't lye heavy. You can make soap in a heavy duty plastic pitcher if you are just starting out. When you start making bigger batches a stainless steel pot is invaluable. Get yourself a stick blender. It will save you valuable time mixing the soap. Do not use a wooden spoon. Over time, the lye will weaken the wood in that spoon and splinters could end up in your soap.
Start small and simple. As a new soaper, I realize that you want to try many things, but get a basic formula down before ading extra things like color, spices, oatmeal or goat's milk. Know what trace looks like. Research which fragrance or essential oils are safe to soap with and in what percentages. Study which fragrance oils or essential oils accelerate trace, so you are prepared.
4-6 weeks of curing cannot be rushed. Do not try a dehydrator. It doesn't work and will make your soap melt. If you are doing hot process or CPOP (cold process - oven process), wait a minimum of one week to give water a chance to evaporate. The longer you can wait, the harder the soap will be and longer it will last in the tub or shower.
Apply for a reseller permit if your county requires it and a business license. Get a liability insurance. Try the Soapmakers Guild or RLI. Each one is available on the net. Don't think just because you are only giving soap to friends, or selling soap to your coworkers that you won't need liability insurance for that. You do need it; even then. People are sue happy and you could loose your house or worse.
I'm sure that you will be proud of your creation(s), so please list the ingredients on your label. Technically you don't have to, but it's always nice to have them on your label, in case of someone that has allergies to certain ingredients.
Here are some links to get you started:
Explanation of soaps and recipes:
http://www.millersoap.com/
crockpot hot process soap:
http://www.geocities.com/toiletrytutorials/cphp.html
More explanations on soap:
http://www.soap-making.net/cold.html
Our forum owners soapmaking methods:
http://www.teachsoap.com/soapmakingmethods.html
More recipes (check them on a
lye calculator!)
http://www.soapnuts.com/indexcp.html
Here are some soapmaking books to learn more and read about:
The Everything Soapmaking by Alicia Grosso
Natural Soap Book: Herb & Vegetable Soap by Susan Miller Cavitch
Natural Soapmaking by Marie Browning
The Soaper's Cook Book: Soapmaking in your oven, on the stove or in your crockpot!
By Coleen French and TJ Currey
The Soapmakers Companion by Susan Miller Cavitch
And it's a good idea to purchase a good book about soap and cosmetic regulations:
Soap and Cosmetic Labeling - How to Follow The Rules and Regs Explained in Plain English
by Marie Gale
You can find basic soapmaking supplies at BrambleBerry along with lots of fragrances, colors essential oils, redy to use bases for rebatching, molds and much more:
http://www.brambleberry.com/
One other thing I would like to mention; adding an oil or butter at trace is no guarantee that your soap will be superfatted with that particluar ingredient. Soap at trace is still quite active and the lye will take whatever it wants. So add all your oils and butters right up front to your recipe and add/melt everything
together. I also add me fragrance or essential oil to my melted soapmaking oils. There is no need to add these at trace either.