Cut my new Wild Iris and White Tea Soap - love White Tea FO, just put it with anything and it always makes a great blend.
What soapy thing have you done today?
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violets2217
Well-Known Member
I find the more I use the PVC mold the easier it is to get soap out. I also just rinse them out without any extra soap and get all the chunky soap off and let them air dry... so it's kinda like they are pre-greased! My PVC column molds which I LOVE are one of the reasons I want to try and make some loaf molds out of the HDPE sheets. No lining is pretting awesome, but they also seem to insulate pretty well and easily fully gel a soap!
I appreciate reading this. I now have 4 of the PVC molds, thanks to my husband.
I was so excited to get my soaps out of their cure, give them a trim and a steam, and get them ready to package. I didn’t make a lot of valentines soaps. The ash was so thick I steamed, I planed, and eventually had to rinse them. Then the soap dough embeds started to ”run” or bleed. I thought I only slightly increased my colorants on that batch of soap dough. Then as I rinsed them and set them to dry the whole row dominoes over and they all smeared THREE times! Had to start the whole process over. Finally finished and walked away. I cried. Switched gears and worked on some bath bombs. Hoping as they dry they become magically better somehow. Weird though because they lather fine! No colored lather at all. *sigh*
Thank you for your kind response.
I actually bought Vikor vegetable shortening. MOI International - Vikor Vegetable Frying Shortening
The PO from this same brand is called Vikor S
.I'd be really grateful for any assistance.
I will contact the supplier for an ingredient list & hope they can assist.
Kind regards
ResolvableOwl
Notorious Lyear
@bookworm
OK, there is definitely some sort of palm oil in there! RSPO is palm specific (either palm oil or PKO, but from your descriptions and the label, it is safe to assume that it's really palm oil).
The consistency/melting point of palm oil depends on certain heat treatements (fractionation) – certain parts of the mixture of substances that palm oil naturally is, have been removed and/or enriched. “No-stir” palm oil, palmolein and -stearin. This mostly changes the melting point, consistency, and the tendency of the oil to solidify at a certain temperature.
Good news for soapmakers: the fractionation does not substantially change the saponification value. Bad news: it does change how much “hardness” the oil lends to the final soap.
Per MOI VIKOR VEGETABLE SHORTENING 15KG it has 53.7% saturated FAs, which is absolutely in line with typical values for palm oil (SMFriend lists 50%).
As long as it isn't stubborn (solidifying too quickly in oil blends), I'd say you're safe. It might well be the case that this is “mid-fraction” palm oil which is even easier to work with than palm oil in its natural composition.
Maybe make a small test batch (at the minimum superfat level you're comfortable working with)?
OK, there is definitely some sort of palm oil in there! RSPO is palm specific (either palm oil or PKO, but from your descriptions and the label, it is safe to assume that it's really palm oil).
The consistency/melting point of palm oil depends on certain heat treatements (fractionation) – certain parts of the mixture of substances that palm oil naturally is, have been removed and/or enriched. “No-stir” palm oil, palmolein and -stearin. This mostly changes the melting point, consistency, and the tendency of the oil to solidify at a certain temperature.
Good news for soapmakers: the fractionation does not substantially change the saponification value. Bad news: it does change how much “hardness” the oil lends to the final soap.
Per MOI VIKOR VEGETABLE SHORTENING 15KG it has 53.7% saturated FAs, which is absolutely in line with typical values for palm oil (SMFriend lists 50%).
As long as it isn't stubborn (solidifying too quickly in oil blends), I'd say you're safe. It might well be the case that this is “mid-fraction” palm oil which is even easier to work with than palm oil in its natural composition.
Maybe make a small test batch (at the minimum superfat level you're comfortable working with)?
Trinbago27
Well-Known Member
So glad to see this post! Just yesterday I bought some pieces of pvc so I can make my round soaps, but I thought I had to line them. So you’re saying I don’t have to! Yay!
Also, I usually make 1-2 lb batches, and today I am attempting a 5lb batch! I plan to get 3 different soaps from this batch… I even enlisted my nephew to help with running up and down the stairs and clean up… wish me luck!
Ugeauxgirl
Well-Known Member
What size PVC are y'all using for this? I went to the hardware store (because I NEED another mold
) and they all looked either too big or too small...
Trinbago27
Well-Known Member
So my big batch today is not using the pvc as I need to ease into that…
but I bought 3in diameter at Home Depot. It only came in 2 ft lengths but they will cut it as you like.
but I bought 3in diameter at Home Depot. It only came in 2 ft lengths but they will cut it as you like.
violets2217
Well-Known Member
I have all the sizes! Lol! But my pull through soaps are a 3” diameter. I got 2 @ 2 foot length and cut it into 4 12” lengths.What size PVC are y'all using for this? I went to the hardware store (because I NEED another mold
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Charlot...VC-DWV-Sch-40-Pipe-PVC-07300-0200HA/100533056
I seal the base with a rubber gasket cap:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-3-in-PVC-DWV-Flexible-Cap-PQC-103/100372304
They sit level and never leak!
Trinbago27
Well-Known Member
I had a dilemma yesterday… because I do not make big batches, buying 24” of pipe was a waste. I like to stick to making 6 soaps at a time. So I bought these pvc couplers that were about 4” tall. Problem is there is no cap that can fit them because they are slightly bigger than a 3” pipe. I figured I can use freezer paper and plastic wrap at the end? Any thoughts?
violets2217
Well-Known Member
Hmmm…. When I used a Pringle can. I tightly stretched and taped plastic wrap around the bottom. It sealed somewhat well, unless the batter was really thin. But still minimal leakage. I’d think the plastic wrap would seal a little better, kinda form to the pipe. And use the freezer paper as a second back up layer?
Mine are 3".What size PVC are y'all using for this? I went to the hardware store (because I NEED another mold
I like this idea better than the end caps I got. They're a pain to remove. Are they fairly easy to remove?
And on that note, I unmolded my pull-through soap today. I am SO happy. I'm calling this one Hippy Chick. It's scented with sweet orange, lavender, and lemongrass. The recipe is @Zany_in_CO's No Slime Castile recipe.
Trinbago27
Well-Known Member
When I use a Pringle can I have to line with freezer paper because the soap reacts with the can lining. Unless I can just greasy it…,
So glad to see this post! Just yesterday I bought some pieces of pvc so I can make my round soaps, but I thought I had to line them. So you’re saying I don’t have to! Yay!
Nope, with a little convincing (and I do mean a little), they slid right out.
violets2217
Well-Known Member
Yep! Just loosen the screw on the metal band enough to pull rubber cap off. Also a little bit of advice… when putting metal band in place DO NOT USE FINGER TIPS TO PUSH IN PLACE… the metal bands are kinda sharp and I’ve cut my finger tips a couple times before learning my lessen and loosening the screw quite a bit to easily put in place.
Duly noted!
violets2217
Well-Known Member
I always lined Pringle cans as well… I meant sealing the bottom because I cut the bottom of the can off so I could easily remove soap and reuse the Pringle can.When I use a Pringle can I have to line with freezer paper because the soap reacts with the can lining. Unless I can just greasy it…,
Truly impressive! Wow! Love the colors and I bet it smells awesome!
Zany_in_CO
Saponifier
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