Hi Debby! They could one of a few different things, either TD spots from not mixing TD thoroughly enough; stearic spots from soaping too cool; or if your soap had tiny air bubbles in it, they could be soap flakes that form when the soap is cut (the wire or blade cuts through the air bubbles and drags little bits of soap into the air bubble holes, which appear as white spots).
IrishLass
Edited to add: looks like DeeAnna and posted at the same time. lol
Hi BothThey are probably air bubbles or what people call "stearic spots". Or both.
Blow the photo so you can see the spots up close. If there are tiny cavities, those are bubbles. Usually caused by your stick blender incorporating air into the batter.
If they're solid white bits, probably stearic spots. These tend to be created by not fully melting the sold fats such as butters or lard. Or if you're making a milk soap and you use fluid milk to make the lye solution, these spots can be flecks of soap from the milkfat.
It's always best to provide the recipe and method to get the best advice.
PS oh and pink grapefruit essential oil !Hi Both
Thankyou for your replies
I’m attaching another photo.
I do also have some air bubbles - the trace got thick quite quickly, I did hit the loaf on the counter a few times but evidently not hard enough!
If it were stearic spots would it mean the soap won’t be good to use?
My recipe didn’t have any milk and the fats were fully melted, I added the lye water when both were at 100F
The recipe 45% olive oil, 25% coconut oil, 5% castor oil and 25% shea butter. Thanks DeeAnna and IrishLass
Oh, sorry for the confusion. I don’t soap at the temperature I use for melting the oil. Once the hard fats are clear, I add the liquid oils and bring the temp down to my working temp. That could be as low as 90F for a lard-based soap, or as high as 115-120F for soy wax.Thank you!
I’ve just cut another soap with the same problem, this time I only used coconut oil, castor oil and olive oil. I mixed in the lye water when both were at 110F
I’ve never mixed at a higher temperature....
Okay so maybe I should heat my oils to a higher temperature to begin with. I think they are at 130F before cooling down.Oh, sorry for the confusion. I don’t soap at the temperature I use for melting the oil. Once the hard fats are clear, I add the liquid oils and bring the temp down to my working temp. That could be as low as 90F for a lard-based soap, or as high as 115-120F for soy wax.
Thanks for your reply. As I thought it could be air bubbles I actually did a soap two days ago at a very thin trace, I didn’t use shea butter as I thought it could be a culprit. This is what I have - spots againI don't see any stearic spots, those look like just air bubbles to me.
Do you burp your stick blender bell? It will help but depending on the sb, might not eliminate the bubbles altogether.
Try blending just your oils, are there a lot of bubbles in it?
My sb makes quite a lot of bubbles, it helps to pour at thinner trace or stop using the sb after thin trace and stir by hand until you get to the trace you want.
what helpful information lard at 140. Thank you! I will watch this aspect more carefully, though I have never had a problem and as a freckle-face myself, I never worry if my soap has extra interest.Pretty soap!
I have been able to reduce stearic spots significantly by making sure that my melted fats are absolutely crystal clear before I add the lye. I can’t give you an exact temperature because I’ve found that some fats are more stubborn than others. My soy wax melts crystal clear at exactly 125F, but I’ve used lard that wouldn’t melt clear until >140F.
Yes, it is a good suggestion to blend the oils beforehand to see if there are air bubbles.Like Obsidian, I'm not completely convinced they're stearic spots either. It really looks like at least some of them are air bubbles, but the photo isn't crisp enough to show clear detail when blown up.
Obsidian had a good suggestion -- if you stick blend just the melted, transparent fats, do you see little bubbles in the fat after blending? If you do, then your SB is also blending air into your soap batter.
And here's yet another idea to try --
Did you cut this soap with a wire cutter or did you use a solid cutter such as a knife or kitchen bench scraper?
You'll see stearic spots with either kind of cutter. Air bubbles are more noticeable with a wire cutter and much less noticeable with a solid cutter. Don't use a planer after cutting -- just look at the raw cut surface.
I think it was @jcandleattic who shared a tip with me a month or two ago about waiting a bit longer to cut with a wire cutter if I’m seeing bubble bumps. I haven’t made much soap since then, but my limited results are promising.
I will definitely try that and let you know! Thank youI think it was @jcandleattic who shared a tip with me a month or two ago about waiting a bit longer to cut with a wire cutter if I’m seeing bubble bumps. I haven’t made much soap since then, but my limited results are promising.
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