Valuable lessons from 1st batch

[roseb]

1. Soaping is not as easy as it looks
2. Maybe stacked plastic pepsi cola racks lined with paper towels don't
allow for enough airflow
3. Don't use canola oil
4. Don't make 6 lb batches (now I have a 2 lb mold)
5. Soapcalc is your best friend
6. And DOS does happen!

Oh the joys of a new hobby...so much to lesson so little time! I ran my new recipe through soapcalc and all looks good. I'll be pouring tomorrow, so wish me luck.

 

[lsg]

All those are good points. I don't use canola either. I add a few drops of Vit. E to every batch of soap. Since I have started doing that, I haven't had any DOS problems.

 

[paillo]

No canola for me either. I do love hempseed though, which has a short shelf life. To any oils prone to rancidity I've been adding Rosemary Oleoresin Extract straight to my bulk bottles.

 

[gratia]

Nope no canola here either. Do you need the paper towels on the cola wracks? Maybe leave that off, and yes making 6lbs of soap to start off with is not a good thing cause so much can happen and all them oils gone. Its not easy but it does get easier.

 

[gratia]

Oh and good luck.

 

[pamielynn]

Canola is good in a recipe with hard oils - I love a bit of canola.

But I like your points - they should be a sticky!!

 

[Sapwn]

What is the problem with canola oil?

 

[nebetmiw]

Both Canola and Soy oils are real prone to DOS.

Small batches work better when learning. Alnog with easy 3 to 4 oils recipes.

Welcome to the soapy world.

 

[Sapwn]

Both Canola and Soy oils are real prone to DOS.

Small batches work better when learning. Alnog with easy 3 to 4 oils recipes.

Welcome to the soapy world.

Thank you !

 

[Moody Glenn]

Roseb, can I add #7 to your list? That white stuff is not a soap fungus but is called "ash". It didn't dawn on me what that white coating was on my first batch of soap. :shock: When I first read about 'ash' I thought "How do you burn-up soap? ":crazy:

 

[MegMatt927]

All great lessons! lol. I've found that with every batch I make I learn how to streamline my process and get better results. Just think, everything will get easier from here!

 

[roseb]

Roseb, can I add #7 to your list? That white stuff is not a soap fungus but is called "ash". It didn't dawn on me what that white coating was on my first batch of soap. :shock: When I first read about 'ash' I thought "How do you burn-up soap? ":crazy:

Thanks Moody Glenn...I almost forgot the ash! LOL

 

[soapguy]

You can greatly reduce your chances of DOS with the introduction of Rosemary Oleoresin Extract (ROE) or EDTA
Rosemary. Coconut oil in your recipe also helps reduce the outbreak of DOS.

 

[Relle]

I use canola, no DOS here.

 

[roseb]

What is EDTA and where can you buy it? My recipe was 1/3 coconut oil and I added vitamin E...still got DOS. Doesn't help that I live in humid S. FL.

 

[pamielynn]

edta: lotioncrafter.com

 

[soapguy]

EDTA=ethylene diamine tetra-acetic acid.

It is commonly used in laboratories as an anticoagulant. it is also used in chelation therapy to get rid of impurities in the blood system(heavy metals). You can buy it in tablet form at most internet pill mills.

 

[soapguy]

this is from the website that Pamielynn provided, lotioncrafter.com



Rosemary Oleoresin, also known as Rosemary Oil Extract or ROE is an oil soluble, natural extract used to retard rancidity in natural oils. Its potent antioxidant properties are attributed in large part to carnosic acid, one of its major constituents. Rosemary Oleoresin is available with varying levels of carnosic acid. Ours is highly concentrated and standardized to 7% carnosic acid for the highest level of activity, making its use at very low percentages both effective and economical. Typically, 0.2 - 0.5 grams will be added to 1000 grams of oil.
As with any antioxidant, to be effective Rosemary Oleoresin must be added to oils when they are fresh, before oxidation has started. Additionally, it must be thoroughly dispersed in the oil. As Rosemary Oleoresin is a thick liquid, adequate dispersion can be difficult. We recommend it be predispersed in a small portion of the oil first and this added to the balance of the oil with thorough mixing.
Rosemary Oleoresin (ROE) has a very mild herbaceous odor which is generally unnoticeable in final formulations when used at recommended usage levels. It is a high quality product lacking the pulp or graininess often found in lesser Rosemary Oleoresin products. In addition to Carnosic Acid, Rosemary Oleoresin also contains Rosmarinic Acid, Rosmaridiphenol, Carnosol, Rosmanol, and Rosmaridiquinone.
Recommended Use Level: 0.02% - 0.05%
Appearance: Light brown viscous liquid
Carnosic Acid Content: 7% minimum
Solvent used for Extraction: Acetone
Flashpoint: >212°F (100°C)

 

[pamielynn]

I thought she was looking for edta:
Tetrasodium EDTA
EDTA, Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid is a molecule which complexes metal ions in aqueous environments. It is available in four neutralizations, two of which, Disodium EDTA and Tetrasodium EDTA, are commonly used in the cosmetics. Generally, the choice of which product to use is determined by the pH of your product. Tetrasodium EDTA is recommended for alkaline products, like most handcrafted soap (and can also be used in creams and lotions). EDTA works synergistically with your preservative to improve preservative efficacy. In soaps, it can counteract the defoaming action of hardness ions, reducing soap scum and improving lather.
Recommended Usage Rate: 0.1% for Preservative Efficacy
Variable for other uses. See Technical Data sheet.
Appearance: Powder
INCI: Tetrasodium EDTA

ROE may help with oxidation issues. As stated in the above post, it is preferred that you add it to the oils, not the batch as oxidation probably started in the bottle. I don't think EDTA will help that, but I use it to keep the "scum" down.

 

[roseb]

Great info...thank you so much!