I add Silk to my master batched lye. Unfortunately I don't really measure it - I just put a bunch in - maybe 6-7 inches.
Tussah silk + master/batched lye
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oh dear, dear!!! the pinches, the peas, the cotton balls and now the inches!!! 
Thanks Linne. I was wondering about the "pea-sized" guidelines I've seen. I wonder do they scrunch it up into a pea?!!! Anyway, I am convinced that somebody out there must have wondered about this. The most precise info I've picked up is 1gm for a 2-pound batch. I came up with .11% of batch from that bit of info, but elsewhere I've seen much higher estimates. I'll hang on and see if anyone can enlighten me!! have a nice evening!
Thanks Linne. I was wondering about the "pea-sized" guidelines I've seen. I wonder do they scrunch it up into a pea?!!! Anyway, I am convinced that somebody out there must have wondered about this. The most precise info I've picked up is 1gm for a 2-pound batch. I came up with .11% of batch from that bit of info, but elsewhere I've seen much higher estimates. I'll hang on and see if anyone can enlighten me!! have a nice evening!
The next time I master batch my lye, I will try and record exactly how much Silk I use.
And if you get good results, please post them.
Hi Linne, yes, I will indeed!!!
Actually, what I was trying to do was masterbatch with aloe vera and silk! It's a pain in the neck to melt silk if you've masterbatched your lye solution. I was worried about the aloe burning if the temp got too high (that happens to me) but also worried that I'd need high temps to melt the silk. Anyway, all seems to be going well. Funny thing (great thing!), the silk in the aloe (I'd left it soaking) actually seemed to prevent burning! I only let it climb up to 70 celsius but - with massive stirring - the silk now seems dissolved, so I'm going to let it cool before I add the rest of the lye. So far so good! My only concern now is the possibility that my masterbatch lye/aloe/silk solution ends up being too gel-like (or maybe worse!). But so far the lye has completely dissolved and the silk also. I'll strain it to be sure - so desperately hoping it doesn't turn to gel - or at least not too quickly! thanks again!
PS I think my sums are good: .4% weight of the masterbatch lye in silk. At least it corresponds to the 1gm per 2 pound batch of soap!
Actually, what I was trying to do was masterbatch with aloe vera and silk! It's a pain in the neck to melt silk if you've masterbatched your lye solution. I was worried about the aloe burning if the temp got too high (that happens to me) but also worried that I'd need high temps to melt the silk. Anyway, all seems to be going well. Funny thing (great thing!), the silk in the aloe (I'd left it soaking) actually seemed to prevent burning! I only let it climb up to 70 celsius but - with massive stirring - the silk now seems dissolved, so I'm going to let it cool before I add the rest of the lye. So far so good! My only concern now is the possibility that my masterbatch lye/aloe/silk solution ends up being too gel-like (or maybe worse!). But so far the lye has completely dissolved and the silk also. I'll strain it to be sure - so desperately hoping it doesn't turn to gel - or at least not too quickly! thanks again!
PS I think my sums are good: .4% weight of the masterbatch lye in silk. At least it corresponds to the 1gm per 2 pound batch of soap!
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MommaSoaper
Well-Known Member
What happens if the silk doesn't fully dissolve and makes it's way into the soap??? Is it still usable soap??
I’ve been master batching for years. Add the silk to the screaming hot lye, it’ll melt.
MommaSoaper
Well-Known Member
THere was a bit of slimy stuff in the batter today. I took out what I found but am nervous that maybe there was more that I didn't find. Will it ruin soap?
No, it won't ruin the soap at all.
For future, it can be good to strain your lye solution as you pour it into the oils. I use a stainless steel strainer to catch any lye lint, undissolved lye or silk, or other debris that can find its way into the lye container or the MB container.
MommaSoaper
Well-Known Member
Thank you for responding. I strained the lye/silk solution, appeared to be dissolved but still strain just in case. Perhaps I need better strainer because when I was stick blending I noticed some weird substance which obviously was some silk gooeyness. Hoping the end soap will be just fine. I appreciate your feedback.No, it won't ruin the soap at all.
For future, it can be good to strain your lye solution as you pour it into the oils. I use a stainless steel strainer to catch any lye lint, undissolved lye or silk, or other debris that can find its way into the lye container or the MB container.
Have been dealing with multiple combative issues. 1.) Soap at 90 degrees, get soda ash. 2) soap at 120, major acceleration- no time for intricate designs. Trying to find middle ground... Thankful for this group and having a place to figure things out. Best.
Soap cooler. I soap at 75-80. Have a recipe with 60 liquid oils & 40 hard oils (this is so you can swirl & design). Use a water discount to prevent soda ash & glycerin rivers. I suggest a 2:1 water/lye ratio which is equal to a 33% lye concentration.
@MommaSoaper The stickblending probably took care of any gooey blobs, and incorporated them as well as they would be incorporated by "melting" in the lye. So it's all good.
I agree with @linne1gi to try soaping even cooler. With my recipe, I get ash if I use less than 38% lye concentration. I also get ash, no matter what, if I add activated charcoal to any recipe. My charcoal often turns a dusty blue instead of grey or black, too.
It can take a lot of experimentation to figure out what works for you. Glad you are here and sharing your experiences!
I agree with @linne1gi to try soaping even cooler. With my recipe, I get ash if I use less than 38% lye concentration. I also get ash, no matter what, if I add activated charcoal to any recipe. My charcoal often turns a dusty blue instead of grey or black, too.
It can take a lot of experimentation to figure out what works for you. Glad you are here and sharing your experiences!
MommaSoaper
Well-Known Member
Thank you for your input! So helpful!
1)I love using the heat transfer method at 33% but not sure how the silk would work?
2) If an FO is listed as a non accelerating FO, then it is most likely not the culprit for batter accelerating right?
3) Also, I'm finding that when I use the proper amount of sodium lactate, my bars are crumbley around the edges. Should I just add a pinch of salt to my lye water instead?
i really appreciate the input. I have a lot of orders for Christmas and of course these issues are arising now
Before I started master-batching my lye solution, I was also a big fan of the heat transfer method. Whether it will work with adding the silk depends on the amount of your hard oils.
Since the lye solution has to get pretty hot to dissolve the silk, and that takes a bit of time, you can't add it to the hard oils right away, or the silk won't get completely dissolved.
That means the solution is a bit cooler by the time you add it to the hard oils. That's not a big deal if your primary hard oil is coconut oil, and if you chop up any hard butter like cocoa butter into small bits so it melts faster. But if you have a lot of cocoa butter to melt, or you don't cut it up into small pieces, your lye solution may not be hot enough to melt it all by the time you wait for the silk to be dissolved. And of course, don't add in your soft oils till the hard ones are completely melted. No need to waste the heat on them, since they are already liquid.
Give it a go and see how it works for your recipe.
Since the lye solution has to get pretty hot to dissolve the silk, and that takes a bit of time, you can't add it to the hard oils right away, or the silk won't get completely dissolved.
That means the solution is a bit cooler by the time you add it to the hard oils. That's not a big deal if your primary hard oil is coconut oil, and if you chop up any hard butter like cocoa butter into small bits so it melts faster. But if you have a lot of cocoa butter to melt, or you don't cut it up into small pieces, your lye solution may not be hot enough to melt it all by the time you wait for the silk to be dissolved. And of course, don't add in your soft oils till the hard ones are completely melted. No need to waste the heat on them, since they are already liquid.
Give it a go and see how it works for your recipe.
MommaSoaper
Well-Known Member
Thank you, I'll try it out. I know I need to start master batching my lye solution to save time and create more loaves daily. Do you melt down your butters/oils every single time you soap or do you have a master batch of those too?Before I started master-batching my lye solution, I was also a big fan of the heat transfer method. Whether it will work with adding the silk depends on the amount of your hard oils.
Since the lye solution has to get pretty hot to dissolve the silk, and that takes a bit of time, you can't add it to the hard oils right away, or the silk won't get completely dissolved.
That means the solution is a bit cooler by the time you add it to the hard oils. That's not a big deal if your primary hard oil is coconut oil, and if you chop up any hard butter like cocoa butter into small bits so it melts faster. But if you have a lot of cocoa butter to melt, or you don't cut it up into small pieces, your lye solution may not be hot enough to melt it all by the time you wait for the silk to be dissolved. And of course, don't add in your soft oils till the hard ones are completely melted. No need to waste the heat on them, since they are already liquid.
Give it a go and see how it works for your recipe.
For my primary recipe my oils are MB'd, but sometimes I do other recipes, too. It's nice because I know exactly how long to melt my MB oils so they are just melted, but not hot. Making soap is a lot more fun for me when I don't have to measure as much, wait for the lye solution to cool, etc. If you make a lot of soap, it's the way to go!
