Today’s soap thing is a CP that’s stuck in gel mode

[KiwiMoose]

Hi thanks for your thoughts. I just checked it and it’s still quite soft. I think it might take a long, long time to become useable. What could I do with it? It’s too soft to grate as I’ve seen in the videos. Or is it possible to rebatch soft soap? I don’t have a crock pot.

I've never rebatched - bu I did see someone one here talking recently about doing it in the oven. That could be an option for you?

 

[user 46149]

I've never rebatched - bu I did see someone one here talking recently about doing it in the oven. That could be an option for you?

Okay! Will let you know how it goes for when you do need to.

 

[GGMA0317]

Your also new at it. But if I were to teach soaping I would start with either 100% OO, 70/30 or 90/10 because I've done numerous batches of each with no problem. If this were my soap I would make a batch of LS using the same CP formula and then I'd mix the CP with the LS during dilution. I've done it many times during my LS experiments and I actually prefer LS done this way and other variations I created.

Rebatching is an option and in my experience, softer soap is easier to rebatch. You don't need a crockpot. You can make a double boiler or do it in a heavy bottom stainless steel pot with direct heat on your lowest setting. You will have to watch it carefully so it doesn't burn. It all sounds much more complicated than it is. But you can also work on another batch while you wait for that one to do its thing

 

[amd]

But if I were to teach soaping I would start with either 100% OO, 70/30 or 90/10 because I've done numerous batches of each with no problem.

These soaps would need a long cure, so I wouldn't consider them good candidates for teaching soaping. Students would be more likely to use them before a good cure, and not be impressed by the snotty slimey texture of an early castile. Likely they would be unimpressed and not continue soapmaking, and would earn you a bad reputation. Sorry, OT but I felt the need to comment on this type of thinking from a newish soapmaker.

Regarding the thread topic, I agree to wait as well. I've had varying results with my castile soaps depending on water content, the brand of olive oil, what other additives I've used... some castiles had to sit for several days, some were impossible to cut in 12 hours (Zany's no-slime castile recipe, I don't recommend it). If you do need to rebatch, it isn't really necessary with a new soap to grate/shred it. I have thrown newly made soaps that irritated me into the crockpot only cut into 3-4 chunks (these were roughly 500g oil batches) and they melted down fine. For a newly made high water soap such as this, you probably don't need to add any extra water, just melt it down and remold it.

 

[GGMA0317]

The purpose of teaching with those formulas are simply to become familiar with soap making process. They are easy to handle and they can see the various stages. I'd Just ease them into it. Several batches soap can be made in a short period of time. So if a new soaper is comfortable with making the aforementioned formulas they can move right along.

There are people who are terrified of soaping. I had to practically put my daughter in a hazmat suit before she'd go near an open container of lye. We laugh about that today. So some are nervous and anxious about it and that might account for some of the new soaper mistakes.
I've taught LS online to someone who was one of those people. She was making and selling it in her shop in no time. I've never taught CP but I stand by my previous post. We will agree to disagree on that.

 

[GGMA0317]

[QUOTE="GGMA0317, post: . I've never taught CP( outside my family) but I stand by my previous post. We will agree to disagree on that.

 

[rdc1978]

Shoestring soap mould ideas:

I bought this used wooden file box at a second-hand store (very low price) and it works great for a small batch, which makes four bars of soap:

https://www.soapmakingforum.com/media/cheap-molds-2016september.1159/
Even the cardboard box lined with freezer paper (or in the UK, greaseproof baking parchment, I think it's called) works quite well.

If I have misnamed what is used in the UK, hopefully someone from the UK will come along and correct me.

I've repurposed Amazon boxes as slab molds and I love it.

I love the idea of reusing things destined for the trash. I cut off the outside flaps, cut out the inside flaps, reinforce the seam and line with freezer paper. The extra cardboard can be used for other things.

 

[penelopejane]

Hi there,

I’m a new soaper and I could really get into this! I can’t say I was a massive science fan at school, but this I like.

I’ve been checking out posts on the soap gelIing and when it happens and when it doesn’t. But I’m still not sure what’s happening with this second batch I’ve made. I’ll post the recipe below, but I made it on Thursday night which is by now a day and a half ago. When I poured it, it was a lovely creamy green colour. I did not insulate it. I forgot to. The next day it was quite warm and dark translucent green. It’s cool, but the same colour this afternoon with a slight crust on top and wobbles like jelly when I shake it. What’s going on with it? Shall I leave it or put it back in the bowl and stick blend it. Or something else? I regret not insulating it and wonder if this is the problem, it happened to be a very warm day in London (UK).

Here’s my recipe:

820g Olive oil
150g Coconut oil
30g castor oil
380g water
134g lye crystals
28g fragrance oil
6g moringa powder

Any feedback is much appreciated.
Thank you!
Ezzie

View attachment 46260

I make a lot of high OO soap. This will be fine in time - a lot of time. I wouldn't rebatch. It is a real hassle to rebatch. You could make confetti soap if you really can't wait for it to harden.
Next time use 33% lye concentration.
You might also want to use a cardboard separator to make 1/2 the amount of soap at a time while you are testing recipes.
I keep all my soap covered for a week to stop soda ash. But, I do soap warm (110*F), insulate and gel everything I make.

 

[penelopejane]

I don't mean to hijack the thread but when I started my quest into soaping, I watched a lot of videos by Soap Queen (Brambleberry) and she always insulated the loaf. I've only done 3 batches so for and batches 2 & 3 both have glycerin rivers which I'm told is caused by 1. too much water, and 2. insulating. I'm working on the water thing but what is the purpose (or is there one) of putting through gel phase? I've since read that many people don't bother at all. It is all very confusing in the beginning - hopefully it gets easier after some time passes.

I think you should take advice from the forum rather than the soap queen. Soaping 101 is also good.
Every soap recipe, everyone's climate and soaping environment makes a difference to how a soap recipe performs.
There are people on the forum from all around the world so their processes might not work for you.
If someone gives you the perfect recipe it might not suit your skin and if someone gives you the perfect process it might not suit your soap recipe or your soaping environment. Just keep trying the different suggestions until you work out one that is perfect for you.
You really have to test your recipes in your soaping environment and find a process that suits your level of patience and the amount of money you are prepared to spend on oils etc.

I spent ages working out the "perfect" system for making soap then changed my molds and I had to relearn a whole new process that worked with the new molds. It was an absolute pain. I used to have a winter process and a summer process but now I just have one process for all my soaps.

 

[MarnieSoapien]

Another suggestion for shoestring mold ideas is plastic food containers. I have several that I've put aside for small batches. Just make sure they have the recycling number as 2 and 5. Or you can line the mold.

 

[GGMA0317]

I use to get those free boxes from USPS and make soap in them. I've used all sorts of things for soap making until I felt I was ready to have my molds customize to fit those standard soap boxes.

 

[Deborah Long]

@Ezzie Roller - Too soon to rebatch! I would let it sit and wait. You have some well-respected soapers in the group here giving you great advice! personally, I always gel, I use sodium lactate (a salt) to harden my bars and I'm able to unmold in 18-24 hours (unless it's a salt bar or all coconut and then it's much quicker). I have rebatched - on my stove top in a stainless steel pot. Soapmaking Friend recipe builder is soooooooo easy to use - MUCH easier than soapcalc, to me...
https://www.soapmakingfriend.com/soap-making-recipe-builder-lye-calculator/

 

[user 46149]

@Ezzie Roller - Too soon to rebatch! I would let it sit and wait. You have some well-respected soapers in the group here giving you great advice! personally, I always gel, I use sodium lactate (a salt) to harden my bars and I'm able to unmold in 18-24 hours (unless it's a salt bar or all coconut and then it's much quicker). I have rebatched - on my stove top in a stainless steel pot. Soapmaking Friend recipe builder is soooooooo easy to use - MUCH easier than soapcalc, to me...
https://www.soapmakingfriend.com/soap-making-recipe-builder-lye-calculator/

I just rebatched it already! It was so soft it would have taken a long, long time, maybe months to set so I melted it down in a bowl over a saucepan of hot water. I added some of each of the oils (without measuring.. hmm). If it doesn't set I'll melt it in water in batches and use it as hand soap, because it smells delicious and is sudsy and moisturising. It's lovely! And if you haven't rebatched soap before it's a whole experience on its own. I think the soap won't look as smooth and beautiful, perhaps more likely rustic, but it definitely hasn't been a wasted experience. Thanks for chiming in!

 

[GGMA0317]

I just rebatched it already! It was so soft it would have taken a long, long time, maybe months to set.

Oh definitely! I'm glad you found a solution. If you ever rebatch a hardened soap you'll really appreciate how soft yours was

 

[cmzaha]

Hi thanks for your thoughts. I just checked it and it’s still quite soft. I think it might take a long, long time to become useable. What could I do with it? It’s too soft to grate as I’ve seen in the videos. Or is it possible to rebatch soft soap? I don’t have a crock pot.

Rebatching is always an option in the oven if you have a non-reactive pot such as a stainless steel pot. If so just dump it in the pot and turn the oven on around 220º F 104ºC and let it cook for a while. Just keep an eye on it as I do not know how long. You want it to thicken up some and cook off some of the water but not get dry. It should not take much over 20-30 min I would not think. You could use an old ceramic dutch oven that has no chips in the finish but if there is any active lye left if can be hard on the finish so it can render the pot unusable for cooking. I picked up one years ago at a second-hand store really cheap to use for such just this purpose.

ETA: See I was too late with my answer.