Tips for increasing lather stability in shave soap

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Gootinberg

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Hi All, I recently started experimenting with making shaving soap using hot process. Although my recipe lathered easily, it was way too bubbly. By the time I would finish shaving one side of my face, the lather on the other side would have disappeared. Any tips/tricks to getting a thicker, creamier, more stable lather? Thanks in advance!

The following is the recipe I used:

30% Coconut oil
30% Palm oil
10% Castor oil
15% Sunflower oil
10% Olive oil
5% Shea butter
5% lye discount (as calculated by SoapCalc)
 
In the spirit of "Teach a man to fish" and all that, I would suggest looking at the properties of each oil in the recipe on soap calc. CO, for example, is very bubbly but not overly creamy. Also, Steric Acid is very creamy and is often seen as an integral part of any shaving soap. There is thread by Songwind about it in the cold process section - a very long read, but utterly worthwhile for shaving soaps.
 
Add some stearic Acid perhaps. I make a shave soap that's 50-52% Stearic with Coconut an a couple other. However, it's made with Potassium & Sodium Hydroxide.
 
Is there a "rule of thumb" on how much steric acid you can add. I have seen for oils there are ranges (e.g., 20% to 25% of total oils); however, have not been able to find a similar guideline for Steric Acid. If I made Steric Acid 10% of my total oils, would that be too much?
 
In the thread started by Songwind the recipe that he gave uses around 50% Stearic Acid. I've made it, but the original recipe needs some tweeking. It's pretty drying.
 
SMF ate my previous post, so I'll try again...

You have a nice bath soap ... but it ain't a shave soap. As Gent and others are suggesting, the recipe needs a serious re-think.

MORE COWBELL!!!! Uh, I mean more stearic..... :)

And less liquid oils. Look at the commercial shave soaps -- very few of them list liquid oils (soy, corn, sunflower, and even olive).

Also adding extra glycerin will help stabilize the foam and also make the soap less drying to the skin. I use 15% based on my oil weight.
 

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