The most basic-est conditioner recipe possible?

[Tara_H]

Right.

I've learned how to make some lotions and I'm happy with how they came out. I also made a simple shampoo bar (minus the keratin) and that's fine as a starting point too (although maybe a bit too cleansing, I don't think my hair has ever been so squeaky clean!). I want to make a conditioner now, but I'm having a little trouble finding a metaphorical end to unravel to get started with it. There are about a gazillion recipes out there, but they all seem to have a special twist or an extra awesome ingredient, and I don't know enough yet to figure out what's absolutely critical and what's just nice to have.

If I was to speculate, I might start by saying what I need is a hair-friendly oil - let's say argan, which I have a small amount of - along with some distilled water and an emulsifier - I have a basic ewax which lists itself as (Cetearyl alcohol, Sodium Lauryl Sulphate). Is that sufficient to start from and then make adjustments according to how I find it? Or is it required to have something like BTMS instead?

This is just for my own hair, which I don't think has any particularly special needs; it's very thick and dense and has a strong natural wave to it, although it tends to tangle if I don't use plenty of conditioner; basically it has a mind of its own... It's uncoloured, unprocessed and generally allowed to do its own thing, and as far as I can determine it doesn't have a protein deficiency(?) but I'm not exactly au fait with the specifics, I just want to be able to wash it, brush it, and leave it alone without it turning into a greasy helmet-shaped lump or something resembling a shower poof.

I would love to get some opinions on whether I'm barking up the wrong tree or if this experiment is worth trying - I'm all for having some learning experiences (obviously! ) but I'd rather not waste the argan oil on something which might be doomed to abject failure from the beginning.

ETA: just realised I didn't mention preservative but I would use Cosgard, which is the only one I have. Would probably include at least some kind of FO as well, green apple comes to mind...

 

[DeeAnna]

BTMS, water, and a broad spectrum preservative will make a very simple. light conditioner. Add a small amount of oil if you like -- the amount will depend on your preference and your hair type.

Do not use e-wax in hair conditioner because it doesn't add any conditioning properties. BTMS is a much better choice.

I have no experience with cosgard, so cannot say if it's sufficiently effective.

 

[Tara_H]

Thanks! So when you say

Do not use e-wax in hair conditioner because it doesn't add any conditioning properties. BTMS is a much better choice.

- does that mean the e-wax is a hard no? Or just that it's not optimal? Because I have that on hand, whereas BTMS is something I'd have to order and the lead time would be a week or so, as well as buying yet another specialised ingredient

Don't worry about recommendations on the preservative, I just mentioned that to clarify that I'm aware it needs one

 

[DeeAnna]

You asked for the "most basic-est conditioner" and the answer to that is BTMS + water. BTMS functions as an oil-free conditioner when used on hair. That's why you can make a functional conditioner using just BTMS and water.

E-wax has no conditioning properties, so you can't make a useful hair conditioner using only e-wax and water. You have to add fat and/or other ingredients with conditioning properties. Having gone down this road myself, I can also add that BTMS + fat + water makes a better conditioner overall than E-wax + fat + water.

 

[Tara_H]

You asked for the "most basic-est conditioner" and the answer to that is BTMS + water

Very fair point! I guess you've called out my unconscious assumption that I wanted to use ingredients I already have. What I'm hearing then is that BTMS is a must-have ingredient for any kind of hair conditioner and that any other elements (bar water) are optional.

 

[DeeAnna]

In my experience, BTMS (or other suitable cationic emulsifier) is valuable enough in a hair conditioner for me to not ever use e-wax. But others might feel differently.

 

[AliOop]

I'm with DeeAnna on this one. I've tried other formulations without BTMS - some crunchy, and some not so crunchy - and have not been happy with them. To clarify, are you wanting to make a conditioner bar, or liquid conditioner? If the latter, DeeAnna's suggestion of BTMS + water, and perhaps a touch of your argan oil, would get my vote.

For a starting point for a solid conditioner bar, take a look at this recipe from HumbleBee & Me. You can leave out the color, the panthenol, and the silk (adding their % insto the oil). You can also substitute whatever butter and oil you want instead of the ones she has listed. I've done exactly that and made a few different versions - and like them all.

But I wouldn't use your e-wax mix of cetearyl + SLS, since the SLS adds a cleansing component that is extremely drying for my skin and hair (and the sulfate strips out the color, too). Hopefully you have some straight cetearyl? If not, you can order it with the BTMS.

One thing I do differently from the method she shows, is that I melt the oil and water phase together, and in the microwave, no less. BTMS is a one-pot emulsifier, and heating it all together eliminates the needs to match up the temps of the separate phases. I just add the preservative and fragrance after the mix has cooled off to the appropriate temp. And you probably do want to add some scent, as some folks smell a fishy smell from BTMS, especially if it is overheated. I personally haven't smelled that, but also haven't used BTMS over 25% or so.

 

[lsg]

Here is a basic recipe:

80% Water
5% Chamomile Extract
2% Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
5% Glycerin
5.2% BTMS 25
.8% Liquid Germall Plus
1% dl Panthenol
1% FO or EO

 

[violets2217]

I tried out a conditioner in Lotioncrafter's Formulary. It was easy to make and is a lighter conditioner that doesn't weight down my hair. I'm liking it so far. Not sure if you'd consider it simple, but I tried it out because I had the majority of the ingredients. I also added some Keratin and Hydrolyzed Hemp protein.

Simple & Luxurious Hair Conditioner

 

[Tara_H]

are you wanting to make a conditioner bar, or liquid conditioner?

I'm not particularly fussy either way, but from what I understand bars are likely to be more complex in terms of ingredients required, so I was leaning towards liquid for that reason. Also I'm not sure how well I'd be able to distribute conditioner from a bar through my hair.

But I wouldn't use your e-wax mix of cetearyl + SLS, since the SLS adds a cleansing component that is extremely drying for my skin and hair (and the sulfate strips out the color, too).

Ah interesting, good to know!

I did a bunch of reading up on anionic, cationic and non-ionic emulsifiers after DeeAnna's reply - guess there's a lot to be learned in that area too!

 

[Zany_in_CO]

what I need is a hair-friendly oil - let's say argan, which I have a small amount of - along with some distilled water and an emulsifier - I have a basic ewax which lists itself as (Cetearyl alcohol, Sodium Lauryl Sulphate). Is that sufficient to start from and then make adjustments according to how I find it? Or is it required to have something like BTMS instead?

BTMS - I was around when this emulsifier first hit the MIY market. It is formulated specifically for hair conditioner vs Ewax which filled the bill before it came along. I have no problem with you using the Ewax you have on hand for experimenting. Then switch to BTMS if you feel it might do a better job. Here is a simple conditioner with BTMS, 3% coconut oil and lemon juice Feel free to tweak with different oil sub for the coconut and vinegar sub for the lemon juice.

Argan Oil - One of the best stand-alone treatments for hair. I would not waste it in making a conditioner. Save it for adding a dot or 2 or 3, rubbed between the palms and smoothed over the hair to condition, control frizzies and add shine.

ACV - If you haven't tried Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse after shampooing, try that before anything else. It makes the hair soft, manageable and acts as a detangler too. I use 1/2 - 1 oz. in 16 oz. lukewarm to cool tap water. Leave in or rinse with increasingly cool water.

BEER - Is also an excellent conditioning hair rinse.

 

[AliOop]

@Tara_H I have very thick, curtly, dry hair that tangles when wet. It is currently short, but till this past November, it was down to my elbow when straightened. I have no trouble working the conditioner bars through my hair either way.

With the recipe I linked, the only two ingredients you’d need to buy are BTMS and cetearyl alcohol. You can use whatever oil and butter you want instead of those she lists. And you can leave out the other extras I mentioned, as well. So the recipe would be:

Heated (primary) phase
15.00g | 30% BTMS-50
15.00g | 30% cetearyl alcohol
7.50g | 15% butter of choice
7.50g | 15%oil of choice

Secondary phase
0.50g | fragrance of choice
0.50g | 1% Optiphen
2.25g | 4.5% distilled water

You can split the additional 3.51% (from the removed ingredients) between the oils, butters, and BTMS. I personally love the addition of panthenol and silk in both bars and liquids, but I understand if you don’t want to buy more stuff. I recently used LGP instead of Optiphen (because I ran out of it) so I had to let it cool down further before adding it.

FYI on the lemon juice recommendation: if your hair leans towards dry, this can dry it further. It can also lighten your hair considerably, depending on your hair’s receptivity to lightening agents.

As for the vinegar recommendation, I can agree that it works very, very well. Unfortunately, people with sensitive sniffers can still smell it in your hair even after it has dried, unless you have another scent to cover it. Ask me how I know. ;-)

 

[Quanta]

I'm not particularly fussy either way, but from what I understand bars are likely to be more complex in terms of ingredients required, so I was leaning towards liquid for that reason. Also I'm not sure how well I'd be able to distribute conditioner from a bar through my hair.

I've made bars and to me, they are less complicated than liquid. I did make one batch of a leave-in conditioner that's a thinner, sprayable version of the liquid kind used in the shower. I prefer making bars. A conditioner bar uses the same mechanism as an emulsifying sugar scrub. There's no water in the formula, just oils and a conditioning emulsifier (BTMS), so that when it comes into contact with water during use it emulsifies which makes it easy to spread through the hair. I just rub the bar on my wet hair and massage it in, and let it sit while I finish the rest of my shower, and then rinse it out. It works great.

I've even heard of very simple bars that are made of melted down BTMS and very little else, but mine are about 60% BTMS 50 and have added cetyl alcohol, oils, and silicones. I've never tried one that is all/mostly BTMS but I've been meaning to, just to see what those are like. If it works, it would be the easiest way to make conditioner but it would also be more expensive (BTMS is not cheap!) unless BTMS 25 was used. I have 25 and 50 both so I will probably experiment soon.

I make mine the way @AliOop describes, with everything but the cool down ingredients melted all together, and then the cool-down stuff mixed in right before pouring. Mine don't have any water though.

Regarding the fishy smell of BTMS, I have found that it dissipates after the bar is made. At least, mine does. It only smells when you first get it out of the bag and start melting it. I did make one small batch of sample size bars that were unscented and they did not have a fishy smell at all by the time the bars were ready to use. That being said, I usually add fragrance because I like hair products that smell pretty. The unscented bars were made for a sibling of mine who objects to fragrance because it's made out of "chemicals" .

 

[Hope Ann]

BTMS, water, and a broad spectrum preservative will make a very simple. light conditioner. Add a small amount of oil if you like -- the amount will depend on your preference and your hair type.

Do not use e-wax in hair conditioner because it doesn't add any conditioning properties. BTMS is a much better choice.

I have no experience with cosgard, so cannot say if it's sufficiently effective.

Could I ask if you have a preference between 25 or 50? And tricks for covering the fish smell?

Hope

 

[Quanta]

Could I ask if you have a preference between 25 or 50? And tricks for covering the fish smell?

Hope

I'm not DeeAnna, but read the post immediately before yours for info about the fish smell. As long as you don't overheat it, the smell will go away.

The difference between 25 and 50 will depend on how much conditioning your hair needs. 25 is 25% BTMS with the other 75% being cetearyl alcohol (which is a blend of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol). 50 is 50% BTMS with the other 50% being cetyl alcohol. BTMS is the active conditioning ingredient, with the fatty alcohol part being a thickener.

 

[Corrine12]

What are the best oils/butters to use in a conditioner bar?

 

[Quanta]

What are the best oils/butters to use in a conditioner bar?

As far as I know, coconut oil is best for hair. Others are used in commercial products for marketing, because Argan oil sounds so much more exotic than coconut. But realistically, just plain ordinary coconut oil is best.

 

[AliOop]

As far as I know, coconut oil is best for hair. Others are used in commercial products for marketing, because Argan oil sounds so much more exotic than coconut. But realistically, just plain ordinary coconut oil is best.

I guess I'm the weirdo because coconut oil is awful on my hair (and my skin, for that matter). It just sits on top and never absorbs, leaving me feeling greasy and yet dry at the same time. Like, it's a layer of grease on top, with dry flaky skin (or dry hair) underneath.

I've been loving meadowfoam seed oil in my most recent conditioner bar. Argan, jojoba, and broccoli seed are other good ones. Oh, and shea - my hair and skin LOVE shea!

You might have to experiment to find what works for you.

 

[Quanta]

I guess I'm the weirdo because coconut oil is awful on my hair (and my skin, for that matter). It just sits on top and never absorbs, leaving me feeling greasy and yet dry at the same time. Like, it's a layer of grease on top, with dry flaky skin (or dry hair) underneath.

I'be been loving meadowfoam seed oil in my most recent conditioner bar. Argan, jojoba, and broccoli seed are other good ones. Oh, and shea - my hair and skin LOVE shea!

You might have to experiment to find what works for you.

I guess I should have said it works for most people. Everyone's skin and hair is different so there is no one-size-fits-all answer.

 

[Zany_in_CO]

I've been loving meadowfoam seed oil in my most recent conditioner bar.

Meadowfoam seed oil is one of my all time favorites in lotion. Love the stuff!