Test batches - CPHP?

[SimplyE]

I have only CPHP'd once, but I am wondering how many of you do this to test recipes so you can get results sooner than the cure time of CP?

Did that make sense???

 

[Guest]

Hi , SimplyE,
I don't do CPHP , I have tried it and I just like the texture of the soap better with just CP.
But I do like CPOP. That speeds up the saponification too.You make your CP as usual . Warm your oven to 170. Put the wooden ( or plastic that you know can handle 200 degrees) mold in the oven , leave the oven on for 1 hour, turn it off and leave the soap overnight . Take it out ,let it sit for an hour or so , slice it , put it on a rack and you are done. It is usable right away , but gets better with a couple weeks cure time.

HTH

Kitn

 

[vivcarm]

This looks interesting, is that centigrade?

 

[SimplyE]

I was thinking of trying CPOP, but after reading a bunch of posts, it seemed like it really still needed to cure the full length of time. That was why I was looking more at CPHP just to do test batches for my recipe that I feel I need to tweak without waiting for the full cure.

Also as I was reading, it looked like you really needed to be careful on the oven temp to avoid warping the mold. Someone was saying to stay lower then even 200, more in the low 100s.

 

[Guest]

170 fahrenheit is the highest I go . I use my thick plastic mold (think thick cutting board) and the wooden ones with no problem . Just don't forget to turn the oven off after an hour . :wink:

Kitn

 

[vivcarm]

Just realised that was a really stupid question if you put soap in the oven at that temp at centigrade- whoo volcano!!!

 

[Guest]

I was thinking of trying CPOP, but after reading a bunch of posts, it seemed like it really still needed to cure the full length of time. That was why I was looking more at CPHP just to do test batches for my recipe that I feel I need to tweak without waiting for the full cure.] end quote:

I just did a little more research on CPOP , they say the CPOP can be used right away , but that it benefits from a 1 or 2 week rest on the curing racks. Just like most handmade soap the longer the cure the nicer the soap.

HTH

Kitn

 

[SimplyE]

Thanks, Kitn! I did do CPHP for this today. I just need to see if I can tell a difference sooner than 4 weeks in a tweak that I made to a recipe. I still flunk at HP...but I guess if I can see a difference sooner, I will put up with it for some testing/manipulating...

 

[Guest]

Your are most welcome.
Playing with the different ways to make soap and all the rest of it , is what makes soaping such a blast .Everyone has their own little tweak or something that works the best for them . Let us know what you think about your experiment.

 

[AshleyR]

I also do CPOP, but I only keep it in the oven until it gels (within minutes usually), and then I take it out and put it into the fridge! It sets up WAY faster and can be cut a lot sooner. Comes out of the molds nice and easy when it's cold too!

 

[kaseencook]

Pine can warp at as low as 75C (depending on individual variations in wood water content and thickness, and of course your relative oven temp - as oven dials are rarely accurate), but usually shrinks back to it's normal size within 24 hours, the real danger is blasting out joints and long term wood damage if it's done often. Some plastic can also get soft at around 80-100C and leach chemicals (PVC is notorious for leaching chems esp under heat). I vacuum form with various plastics and they go through elastic, plastic and degrading stages, the first being less noticeable. Here is a list of common plastics
http://www.toolcraft.co.uk/vacuum_forming_material_specs_ABS_HIPS_HDPE_PETG_PP_PVC.htm
and their softening temps, most heavy duty plastic single 3D moulds are made of ABS, other clear individual moulds are PVC, and some white hard and brittle/inflexible feeling single plastic moulds are made from polystyrene. Most thick log and slab moulds that are plastic are made from HDPS, or clear Acrylic.
Oh my, just looked at the time, time for bed I think!