Temperature & Tips!

[LittleBunny]

Hi y’all,

*gulp* time to swallow my pride and ask a few very beginner questions.

I invested quite a bit of time and money into my very first soaping experience. I have spent countless hours watching videos and reading blogs, forums etc. So when it came time to make my first batch I was sure it would come out EXACTLY as I planned. It didn’t.... LOL

I made black raspberry vanilla CP soap.

-FO from Natures Garden
Calculated at 3.5%x54oz = 1.89oz
-Bramble berry quick mix 54oz
-soaped at around 100% with lye and oils within 2-3 degrees of each other
-made 4 colours (2 mica, 1 titanium dioxide and 1 activated charcoal)

When I mixed the oils and lye it was a lot harder to determine if I achieved emulsification and/or trace than I thought.

I spilt my batter up into 4 containers and added my FO and colours.

I made the mistake of mixing my colours and my FO both with the stick blender which thickened up my soap waaaaay more than I wanted to. Little miss prideful over here thought she could achieve a perfect drop swirl on her first try. Hah!!! Too confidant.

So my question is what is the best temperature to achieve a thin, emulsified yet workable mixture for swirling? From the above what do you think I did wrong? What tips could you give me to improve on my next round?

I plopped my mixture into the Mold, covered it in glitter mica and soap gimbals and put it to sleep under a box and some blankets for the night. I’ll post pictures tomorrow when I cut it.

Things I know I can improve on:

1. Smaller bucket to avoid popping the stick blender out of the mixture I believe this soap is going to be BUBBLY
2. Use fewer colours
3. Mix colours and FO with wisk or spatula
4. Prep EVERYTHING before you start
5. Swallow your pride

 

[penelopejane]

It could just be that you are taking trace too far.
This is one of the most important things to learn in soaping.
It is so very difficult to get just right.

Watch this really helpful video about emulsification by “our” Newbie.

 

[dibbles]

I see penelopejane has already given you the most helpful video (actually by 'our' newbie). Nothing wrong with going in confident! Since you want to jump right in with coloring, I would suggest using only a base and one other, or two other, colors. If you are using micas, premix them in a bit of oil or glycerin (I use oil) before you start making your soap. After you have split and added colors, if it seems like the batter is getting too thick, do an in the pot swirl. ITP swirls are pretty, easy and a good place to start.

One thing I realized when I was teaching my DIL and a friend of hers to make soap is how slow we tend to do things when first starting out. It took them at least twice as long as it takes me now to mix colors and pour my batter. It reminded me that I didn't move too fast when I was doing my first 10 or so batches.

 

[penelopejane]

I see penelopejane has already given you the most helpful video (actually by 'our' newbie). Nothing wrong with going in confident!

Thanks Dibbles. I’m on the mobile and couldn’t see the author and my memory didnt help. I’ve corrected my post.

OP ideal temperatures for soaping really depend on the oils you use. Hard oils and butters need to be melted and pretty clear before mixing.

 

[DeeAnna]

In addition to the other tips --

Stick blend less and hand stir more. I typically stick blend a total of 10 seconds or less per batch, and that includes buzzing the colors into the soap batter.

Here's how a typical batch might go for me -- Add lye solution to the fats. Hand stir for 30 seconds. SB for 2-3 seconds. Hand stir for 30 seconds. SB for 1-2 seconds. Hand stir a bit longer. By that time the soap is probably at emulsion. Portion out batter for colors. Add colorant to each. Hand stir each portion a bit. SB each portion for 1-3 seconds to break up the colorant and mix in well. Swirl and finish up the batch.

A 54 oz batch is awfully big for a beginner. Many of us suggest 16 oz or 500 gram batches for testing and learning. If you make 3 smaller batches, you get 3 times the experience than if you make one big batch. Also if you really goof up, you've only goofed up a little bit, rather than a lot.

 

[NsMar42111]

+1 to what DeeAnna said, do smaller batches esp. since you are using quickmix and it's a lot easier ot measure than tiny amounts of individual oils.

I'm going to add....stick with something simple until you get the hang of how the soap behaves...save the fancy swirling for later. First batch should be just soap with no nothigns so you get the idea. Then add a color...then a fragrance...etc. Read up on fragrances, some of them are instant soap on a stick (hard fast) so you are better off not swirling with those!

 

[DeeAnna]

More ideas --

Your temps sound fine. I know people try to soap cooler and cooler in an attempt to get more working time, but honestly the recipe a person uses and your way of (not) using the SB'er are probably more important.

Also, what FO did you use? Your choice of fragrance (EO or FO) can make a big difference in how much time you have to work.

For example, Nature's Garden Fresh Cut Roses doesn't give me too much time to work. I have finally learned how to get a hanger swirl done using FCR, but it took several unsuccessful tries before I was good enough to be that fancy.

If I use thyme EO, on the other hand, any kind of swirl is a non-option. I'm lucky to get a thyme EO soap even poured before it firms up.

 

[Cellador]

+2 on stick blending less. After you separate & add FO/colors, you can always stick blend more if you need the trace to be thicker.
And, almost everytime I make soap, I have a plan. Sometimes the plans work out, sometimes they don't. I have learned to have a back-up design plan, so you won't get flustered if things move faster than anticipated.

 

[LittleBunny]

It could just be that you are taking trace too far.
This is one of the most important things to learn in soaping.
It is so very difficult to get just right.

Watch this really helpful video about emulsification by “our” Newbie.

WHAT!!! Where was this 5 hours ago, lol

This is a perfect example, thank you!!!

In addition to the other tips --

Stick blend less and hand stir more. I typically stick blend a total of 10 seconds or less per batch, and that includes buzzing the colors into the soap batter.

Here's how a typical batch might go for me -- Add lye solution to the fats. Hand stir for 30 seconds. SB for 2-3 seconds. Hand stir for 30 seconds. SB for 1-2 seconds. Hand stir a bit longer. By that time the soap is probably at emulsion. Portion out batter for colors. Add colorant to each. Hand stir each portion a bit. SB each portion for 1-3 seconds to break up the colorant and mix in well. Swirl and finish up the batch.

A 54 oz batch is awfully big for a beginner. Many of us suggest 16 oz or 500 gram batches for testing and learning. If you make 3 smaller batches, you get 3 times the experience than if you make one big batch. Also if you really goof up, you've only goofed up a little bit, rather than a lot.

This is really helpful DeeAnna! Thank you, Im so worried about pouring $30 of ingredients into a mold and having it separate because I didnt mix enough. I think I have found the error in my ways.

UPDATE:

I have just checked my soap -- it has cracked down the middle, so thankfully it has gelled which is what I was going for... but, it got too hot. I live in Canada, so I didnt think I could just leave it out without insulating it and have it reach gel phase.

I put it in a box, covered it in a heated blanket on high for 30 minutes, covered by another blanket (over the heated blanket), shut it off and left it. Maybe I shouldnt use the heated blanket next time?

Soap experts?

ps. you guys rock!

 

[loriag]

Newbie here, it has taken me a couple of months to figure out what works for me (in our climate) to get a nice complete gel without overheating or other issues. Living Northern MB, I tried towels over a shoe box with my mold inside the shoe box (sometimes got partial gel, sometimes overheated), I tried CPOP (didn't like the silicone rash my molds left from getting hot), what I finally found works here for me is coving my silicone mold with just cardboard, putting it in a shoe box, placing it in a cooler. No towels, just the cardboard box in a cooler. A finicky thing this soap making can be!

 

[penelopejane]

I have tried the heated blanket and yes it overheated for me too.
It didn't get cracks but the bottom of the soap was rock hard.

After many, many failed attempts I now use a flat heated blanket preheated to 25*C then I turn it off and put an insulated mat on top of it.
On top of that I put a towel.
On top of that I put my silicone lined wooden mold with lid.
I wrap the mold in the towel.
Then I cover the whole lot with one doona in summer and two doonas in winter. It gets to a low of about 12*C in my soaping room in winter and a high of 30*C in summer.
This seems to match the environment that I got so effortlessly using the oven preheated to 45*C (110*F) then turned off.
​

Newbie here, it has taken me a couple of months to figure out what works for me (in our climate) to get a nice complete gel without overheating or other issues. Living Northern MB, I tried towels over a shoe box with my mold inside the shoe box (sometimes got partial gel, sometimes overheated), I tried CPOP (didn't like the silicone rash my molds left from getting hot), what I finally found works here for me is coving my silicone mold with just cardboard, putting it in a shoe box, placing it in a cooler. No towels, just the cardboard box in a cooler. A finicky thing this soap making can be!

Hi Loriag,
I am glad you worked out a method that worked for you.
I tried putting a heat mat in a cooler and it got way too hot. Your method sounds good and more economical and less fussy than mine.

Where is northern MB? How cold does it get in winter?

 

[cmzaha]

I find it takes time and practice to find what works for one's particular recipes. Ninety percent of the time I use heat blankets and electric heat pads to get my soaps to gel and I live in Sunny California. I put my molds in long shallow crates with a cover and wrap them in their warm toasty blankies. I do check periodically for overheating which does not happen to often unless I have a new fo that I did not realize is a heater upper

 

[penelopejane]

Hello from Australia bean reading bits and pieces about soap making for the last month feeling the need to make some SOAP..
l need help l have no reply from anyone l must be doing something wrong so lm here now

Hi Janine,
Welcome to the forum.
It would be best to start your own thread as your post is lost in this thread.
Click on the "beginners soapmaking" forum
and click on "post new thread" button in the middle of the first part of the page.
Copy and paste your post and you will get lots of replies.

 

[loriag]

Hi Loriag,
I am glad you worked out a method that worked for you.
I tried putting a heat mat in a cooler and it got way too hot. Your method sounds good and more economical and less fussy than mine.

Where is northern MB? How cold does it get in winter?

I live in a place called Flin Flon, 54th parallel. It was a long cold winter this year, most of it was spent in the -25 to -30 C range so -13 to -22 F. We are just starting to get above zero now, I have at least 2 feet of snow still in my front yard. Our house temp stays around 20/21 C or 70 ish F. But the rooms are unevenly heated, some get more heat than others.
I tried small hand towels in the cooler to cover the box, that also gets a bit too hot. I was just glad to finally get some consistency.

 

[penelopejane]

Wow Manitoba!
We don’t heat part of our house in winter which is why it gets as low (!) as 12*C.

Thanks for the info I will try your method. I want a set and forget no checking method of gelling.

 

[cmzaha]

I live in a place called Flin Flon, 54th parallel. It was a long cold winter this year, most of it was spent in the -25 to -30 C range so -13 to -22 F. We are just starting to get above zero now, I have at least 2 feet of snow still in my front yard. Our house temp stays around 20/21 C or 70 ish F. But the rooms are unevenly heated, some get more heat than others.
I tried small hand towels in the cooler to cover the box, that also gets a bit too hot. I was just glad to finally get some consistency.

I just looked up where you live, looked up the history. It looks like a beautiful place to live, other than the cold, and I love the name of the Town.

 

[loriag]

Wow Manitoba!
We don’t heat part of our house in winter which is why it gets as low (!) as 12*C.

Thanks for the info I will try your method. I want a set and forget no checking method of gelling.

I use both FO and EO and I don't think I use any FO's that behave badly with overheating. I tend to prefer fruity scents and read the distributors info on them before I order and use. I haven't tried any florals, they tend not to be my thing.

 

[penelopejane]

I use both FO and EO and I don't think I use any FO's that behave badly with overheating. I tend to prefer fruity scents and read the distributors info on them before I order and use. I haven't tried any florals, they tend not to be my thing.

I'm really particular about the FOs I use too. I read all the reviews before buying and then test. There are about 10 FOs that I like in soap out of the thousands available.

I had friends test some soap the other day. They were in the same room and they closed their eyes so as not to be influenced by the soap colour. One said the FO in soap A was really awful - the worst in the bunch. The other said it was the nicest of the 10 scents. I've found I have to either rely on my own taste or do a spreadsheet of opinions of everyone who walks in the door to get consensus.

 

[penelopejane]

I spilt my batter up into 4 containers and added my FO and colours.

I made the mistake of mixing my colours and my FO both with the stick blender which thickened up my soap.

I don’t think anyone has mentioned that if you reserve some water from the mix (in this case 4 equal parts of water) and mix your colours in water first you will find they are easier than o disperse in the batter without too much SBing.

One thing to note. 1/2 tsp of AC stickblended will be darker than 1/2 tsp AC handbended. Also AC accelerates trace so you need your batter only just on emulsion if you want to SB AC and then you have to use only one short burst of possible.