Susan Miller's lotion recipes from The Soapmaker's Companion

[serfmunke]

Hi, first post in this forum. I just made two batches of lotion with recipes from Susan's book. Since I have only made two, both of which I love, I am wondering if any more advanced lotioneers out there have advice or warnings about the recipes.

The last recipe I made was in grams:

EVOO 275
Sweet Almond 50
wheat germ 25
jojoba 35
shea butter 15
castor 15
cocoa butter 15
beeswax 75

water 413.5
borax 10
vegetable glycerin 15


EOs 6

I love that I have ingredients I can pronounce and have in the home on a regular basis but also curious what I may have to look out for. The batch comes to about 44 ounces which I use within two months. There was some separation in the first batch, but I just stirred the lotion up and it was fine. I noticed some condensation on the lid of the container. But I did not notice anything negative.

Any advice is appreciated, TY!

 

[Lindy]

You need a preservative. You don't want to spreading bacteria and fungus all over yourself. Just because you can't see it doesn't mean it's not there.

 

[carebear]

two things -
unfortunately beeswax and borax do not a good emulsifier make, it probably won't hold up for long.
condensation on the lid is like a bacteria haven, make sure it's cooled completely before putting the lid on.
yea, use a preservative. srsly.

 

[fiddletree]

like they said, you need a preservative!!!!! Otherwise you'll be rubbing a giant bacterial (or mold, or fungus...) culture on your body.

The problem I have with borox, more than it's emulsifying abilities, is that it causes skin reactions in a lot of people. You might want to try with a more conventional emulsifier (ewax, polawax, etc), and then use beeswax for thickening if you really want to have it in there.

 

[serfmunke]

Her recipe calls for grapefruit seed extract. I do not have it on hand so I just went without it. I will get some.

Also, I try to keep things as close to nature as possible, what emulsifier is the most natural? I will have to do some research.

Thanks for the heads up with the preservative

 

[ToniD]

Grapefruit seed extract is not a preservative, even though some people will recommend it as such. A good place to start your research is to read the swiftcraftymonkey site. Lotion crafters also has good info on preservatives.

I don't know how natural the emulsifiers are, but the herbarie carries ingredients that are advertised as more natural.


Have fun!

 

[mandolyn]

I use E-Wax as the emulsifier & Stearic Acid to thicken my lotions. I, also, add .5% Tocopherol T-50 to each batch of lotion as an antioxidant which keeps oils & butters from going rancid. I can't tell you how many lotions & creams I've received in swaps that went rancid in a month or so.

As a preservative, you want one that is either good for oil i water or water in oil mixes - depending upon which is dominant in your formula. I've used Liquid Germall Plus with great success, & have done testing to make sure it did it's job well. It passed every time.

 

[serfmunke]

Very good, thank you for the info. Will start researching and experimenting.

 

[adelej]

Agree on the Liquid Germall Plus. It's my go-to for preservatives in lotions and creams.

I believe Polawax is from vegetable sources, but you won't find a complete ingredient breakdown. I'm not sure there is much in the way of a 'natural' emulsifier, same with preservative- but both are needed to make a successful lotion.

Personally I really like Polawax or BTMS-50 for emulsifiers.

Have you visited Swift's blog? She has amazing lotion tutorials (as well as tons of other body products) that are seriously good reading if you're interested in making your own stuff.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1020026/introdu ... hingie.pdf
http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/

Have fun!

 

[srenee]

Skin Firming Lotion

Can anyone recommend a good skin firming lotion or cream. I have several customers that keep returning asking for a cream that will help with sagging skin particularly around their face. Can anyone suggest one or a link to find one?
Thanks.

 

[adelej]

Well I have heard that Crothix (a thickening agent) used typically in surfactant mixtures actually has some skin tightening abilities- I'm not sure if I would make this claim, but it's worth testing...

I'm going to make a face gel-cream using it. This is a recipe I have found online that I plan on giving a go:

Found as this:
13 oz water
0.5 oz glycerin
1 oz emulsifying wax
0.7 oz crothix
0.6 oz jojoba oil
0.16 fragrance
0.16 preservative

I prefer to work in percentages, and use some more elegant ingredients. So this is what I came up with as a good place to start, using the formula above (but broken down to % as I work in grams)

Heated Water Phase:
30% Water
2% Sodium Lactate (Humectant, good for blemish prone skin, mild AHA)
42% Hydrosol (Mix of Rose and Neroli cause I love the smell)
2% Cromoist hydrolyzed oat protein (or any protein)

Heated Oil Phase:
6% Polawax
4% Crothix
10% Jojoba Oil (or Hazelnut)

Cool Down Phase:
1% Essential Oil (Probably rose or something very mild)
2% Panthenol
0.5% Liquid Germall Plus
0.5% Green Tea Extract

Planning on trying this recipe out today actually!! I'll let ya know how it goes Fingers crossed. I really want a lightweight cream full of nutrients. After a test batch of this, I'll do a more intensive AHA version as well.

 

[srenee]

LOL.. I know the feeling. I've tried a couple and have varying results. Haven't found a more consitent one just yet. We live near the coast so folks are fighting the sun rays, salt in the air and farming nearby.

 

[srenee]

Thank God I have Soapmaker 3. I'm not good with % and numbers. But your recipe looks like it has a nice balance.

 

[srenee]

I also need to go shopping. I don't have Crothix, Polawax (never heard of it), and Panthenol.

 

[adelej]

Update on the skin firming cream with Crothix

It turned out GREAT.

Couple of notes though...
1. This took a LOT of blending. A long time. It kept separating and I had to mix and mix and mix. As soon as it started to really get cool though, there was no separation. I have been using it every day since and it's solid and creamy.

2. I didn't do a test batch, went right for full strength AHA. I've been having some problems with my skin lately, and needed a little extra exfoliation. This is definitely doing the trick- my skin is very noticeably smoother and softer. It has helped slough away the dead skin surrounding some recent acne which has helped with makeup application.

3. I added green tea extract, turns out I don't like the smell that much. Then I added some Valor essential oil blend which actually made it smell worse. Not bad, but just overly scented... I will use honeysuckle extract next time, and not bother with essential oil unless it's for a therapeutic use.

All in all, loving it so far. Mind you, it's only been three days... So far so good. Oil-free smoothing cream that so far hasn't caused any negatives.

 

[srenee]

I'm anxious to try this. I have to get the ingredients first. I think I read in the toturial that a lot has to do with maintaing heat in your double boiler and then mixing.