Stuck with acne oily skins recipe

[CecileBC]

Hi everyone !

Hope you're all well.

I am stuck with a recipe for oily acne prone skins, which comes out with a low palmitic/stearic value - low INS number...
Adding cocoa butter helps, but it has a high comedogenic value.

Would anyone have a suggestion for increasing the longevity value without adding oils that would tend to clog pores ?

Many thanks !

Here is the formula:

 

[KiwiMoose]

Not sure about what clogs pores - but soy wax is a vegan option that contributes to stearic percentage.
Suggest lowering superfat to 2 %
Add activated charcoal ( for skin detox purposes)?

 

[CecileBC]

Not sure about what clogs pores - but soy wax is a vegan option that contributes to stearic percentage.
Suggest lowering superfat to 2 %
Add activated charcoal ( for skin detox purposes)?

Hi !
I like the vegan idea of soy wax and will investigate, thanks.
About activated charcoal: I haven't used it yet; how does it feel on the skin ? Can you feel some kind of scratching or is it fine enough like a clay ?

 

[KiwiMoose]

https://www.livemoor.co.uk/products/nature-wax-c3-soy-wax-various-sizes-livemoor
I don't notice any scratching with activated charcoal - it is a very fine powder. But I have heard other people on here say that they do.

 

[CecileBC]

https://www.livemoor.co.uk/products/nature-wax-c3-soy-wax-various-sizes-livemoor
I don't notice any scratching with activated charcoal - it is a very fine powder. But I have heard other people on here say that they do.

I'll just have to try it and see !

What kind of percentage would you advise for the wax ?

 

[KiwiMoose]

I'll just have to try it and see !

What kind of percentage would you advise for the wax ?

I use it at 20%

 

[CecileBC]

I use it at 20%

As I also make candles, I have some sunflower wax, olive wax and rapeseed wax at home. However, I cannot seem to find the fatty acid composition of any of them online... Do you know if any of these would be suitable ?

As I also make candles, I have some sunflower wax, olive wax and rapeseed wax at home. However, I cannot seem to find the fatty acid composition of any of them online... Do you know if any of these would be suitable ?

Would they just have a fatty acid profile close to the oils I guess ?

 

[Shelley D]

Hi !
I like the vegan idea of soy wax and will investigate, thanks.
About activated charcoal: I haven't used it yet; how does it feel on the skin ? Can you feel some kind of scratching or is it fine enough like a clay ?

I did some Google searching on charcoal (to use as an odor eliminator) and discovered there are 3 main types of charcoal and if I remember correctly they are: hard wood, coconut shell and bamboo. I can't find the original article that compared them but basically one is better for cosmetics, one for odors, one for digestive issues (including neutralizing ingested poison). Below are some links to articles but I would suggest doing research specific to your needs, like what is the best type of charcoal for skincare. Also, it mostly comes as a super fine powder and it's like baking with powdered sugar, handle carefully and slowly so as not to make it poof everywhere And you only need a little bit! Personally, I don't feel it in my soap, but mine is a super fine powder.
Also, I find that most oils that are comedogenic used directly on skin are not so after made into soap. If I use olive oil directly on my skin I break out in little skin bumps, but it doesn't cause bumps if I make olive oil soap. I have seen some acne soap recipes that use charcoal and tea tree oil in this forum so maybe look at the additives as well as the oils. I have heard people also have good results making a rose soap with rose/geranium EO and pink clay also. So many options! Happy soaping!

https://charcoalhouse.com/educate-me/faq.html
https://carbonbulksales.com/blogs/news/coconut-shell-activated-charcoal-benefits-uses

 

[CecileBC]

I did some Google searching on charcoal (to use as an odor eliminator) and discovered there are 3 main types of charcoal and if I remember correctly they are: hard wood, coconut shell and bamboo. I can't find the original article that compared them but basically one is better for cosmetics, one for odors, one for digestive issues (including neutralizing ingested poison). Below are some links to articles but I would suggest doing research specific to your needs, like what is the best type of charcoal for skincare. Also, it mostly comes as a super fine powder and it's like baking with powdered sugar, handle carefully and slowly so as not to make it poof everywhere And you only need a little bit! Personally, I don't feel it in my soap, but mine is a super fine powder.
Also, I find that most oils that are comedogenic used directly on skin are not so after made into soap. If I use olive oil directly on my skin I break out in little skin bumps, but it doesn't cause bumps if I make olive oil soap. I have seen some acne soap recipes that use charcoal and tea tree oil in this forum so maybe look at the additives as well as the oils. I have heard people also have good results making a rose soap with rose/geranium EO and pink clay also. So many options! Happy soaping!

https://charcoalhouse.com/educate-me/faq.html
https://carbonbulksales.com/blogs/news/coconut-shell-activated-charcoal-benefits-uses

Hi Shelley !
Great info, thank you so much !
I have also seen some acne soaps with a high percentage of "comedogenic" oils such as coconut, but the action came from the TTrea EO or rosemary or some other healing HE.
I was just a little worried about the cocoa butter in my recipe, as it seems very comedogenic.

 

[Obsidian]

comedogenic value of a oil is for the oil in its pure form, not once its been turned into soap.
Have you looked into salt bars? They can be very good for acne prone or oily skin

 

[CecileBC]

comedogenic value of a oil is for the oil in its pure form, not once its been turned into soap.
Have you looked into salt bars? They can be very good for acne prone or oily skin

Hi !
I see, so I understand it does not make a real difference.
I have seen a lot of threads on salt bars so I'll get back to them now!
Thank you !

 

[Zany_in_CO]

I am stuck with a recipe for oily acne prone skins,

IMO and IME, for acne-prone skin you want cleansing without drying. Drying makes the skin produce oil to counteract the condition. Your recipe is worth a try but I would leave out the jojoba and tamanu. Their beneficial qualities for skin are lost in soap and better left to use in leave-on products. I would not use activated charcoal either, although many like its exfoliation factor.

To cleanse and condition without drying, I recommend the 85% Olive Oil, 10% coconut oil, 5% Castor oil variation of ZNSC scented with tea tree (antibacterial/antifungal) essential oil.
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/zanys-no-slime-castile.72620/
My second choice would be the same only substitute Lard for the Olive Oil. 0% SF.